Tungsten

So I'm guessing anywhere between 170 F and 180 F is good. What is the engine operating temperature then? My gauge is also stays dead in the middle when the truck warms up.

This might be stupid but I want to know what thermostat does everyone have. I have a 180 F (82.2 C) one and it does seem to be on the warm side in this climate (NJ). It seems fine but maybe I should change it for a 170 F (76.6 C) one next summer. I think Nissan sells a 76.5 C (around 170 F) one for the VG30E.

it's one of the wires that goes to the dome light that will activate the ground once any of the doors are open

idk i never had problems with the M6 size

they won't break off, they are stainless steel bolts i'm not planning to drill them out either because longer/bigger bolts like to travel through other surrounding things also they get removed and cleaned with every oil change i had worse fasteners in there before and they did not break off the trick with those things is to get them as short as possible (and don't forget the washer) that way you are required to put less torque on the head to spin the bolt if it is frozen thus decreasing the chance of snapping it off

Yeah I get the idea, I know how Nissan likes to do things...

How do you pull off the wiper arms from the front? I know there is a nut that holds the rear wiper to a splined shaft but I could not see anything for the front.

there should be a welded bracket or nut on the other side mine had a thread there before you put bolts in, if they haven't been in there for a while, chase the thread with a M6x1.0 screw tap

So the M6x1.0x12 bolts with M6 locking washers worked out great but I would not use anything shorter than that. That's all I could find at the Home Depot. The rest of the fasteners were either stolen from the packets or ravaged. Those damn thieves can't spend 50 cents!

x2

relays make it simple, i used what i had you can use the black one that triggers two switches at the same time instead of one like the blue and green ones do

I would hate that feature on early WD21s. In fact, I want the lights to come off instantly when the door is closed. I don't like waiting until they go off because you can't tell if all the doors are closed unless there is another door indicator and in my case there isn't.

Maybe they do look like robots... Here is a tip: USE A REAL SOLDERING IRON WHEN DOING CONNECTIONS It took me forever because I used a cheap butane powered one, it was pathetic.

If enough debris falls into the ventilation system, the blower resistor that is inside the box will light it all up and you will have one smoking dashboard.

Small objects could fall in through the slats so Nissan issued revised cowl grilles for the truck. Original cowl grille design: Revised cowl grille design:

13. Use velcro to hang relays near the sunroof location. 14. Fish the wires through the roof support. Then terminate with a male connector. 15. Cut a hole in the headliner. Be patient and careful here otherwise it will look like @!*%. Assemble and test!

11. Use zip ties to run the wire along the factory wire. 12. Solder and have fun here... Wrap all sketchy wiring with electrical tape to prevent the wiring from damage. Use 1/4 inch terminal connectors to connect to the relays.

8. Pull out the ROOM LAMP fuse before wiring. 9. Modify the map light. 10. Tap into the dome light wire. Be careful where you tap in!

These are the steps (what I did) to install and wire the map light with the relays: 1. Remove the rear view mirror, the pillar trim, and the headliner. I have my rear view mirror on in these photos because I had to drive the truck while slowly progressing through this project. 2. Check to see that the bracket fits. 3. Trace the holes you will cut for the light by using the bracket. 4. Cut the holes with a dremel. 5. Use the bracket again to mark holes for the screws. Then drill out the holes just enough so that you can get a self tapping screw in there. Don't drill through completely because the self tapping screw will actually bend the metal and make a hole for itself that it can hold on to. Use the same type of screws that attach the rail which holds the headliner seal. 6. Try to slide in the map light into the holes, if it doesn't fit do some adjustments. I had to trim the holes more toward the mirror. 7. Mount the bracket and try to see if the map light fits.

When I got my map light, I was disappointed that it only could be used with the buttons. I wanted the light to also work when the door is open so that there is more light when getting into the truck. At the same time I wanted to keep the functionality of the buttons. Original map light wiring: I had 3 options: 1. Connect the door switch ground directly which will bypass the switches on the lights and have either button turn both lights on when the door is closed. 2. Use relays to trigger the lights when the door is open. OR 3. Same as option 1 but use two diodes to force the current from the map light toward the door switch ground. Due to part availability, I decided to go with option 2. EDIT: Visio schematics added.

I know where I will put the tweeters. I will put them in the headliner plastic things so they are right above.

you don't need silicone if a gasket is new

look under the truck and you will see why

FYI: The dealer one is a re-branded Bando belt. What happens over time is the belts stretch and crack causing the howling and squealing. No big deal considering how easy those belts can be replaced. Usually if one starts squealing, I do them all to save time later on.