Tungsten

I'm re-using off the shelf aftermarket 2.00" piping with a Flowmaster 60 and a Magnaflow catalytic converter. It sounds pretty good, no drone at all when at 3000 rpm, and will probably last a long time. Just a quick word of warning, watch that pipe bend around the transmission cross member support. I had to trim mine as it caused the pipe to bang on it repeatedly and it made me think the headers were hitting the frame somewhere. It also triggered the knock sensor and robbed all my power.

I don't know what you guys are talking about, it is extremely easy to swap the windows in and out of the truck. At most there is 2 bolts holding the window, try removing the seal first and go from there.

2.5 would be way too big

How did you purge from the high side? I just wanted to know if the drier canisters interchange so that I may be able to use a R134a canister. I know it is possible to get away with an R12 one but it is better to use the R134a one when using R134a refrigerant unless anyone from Mexico is willing to ship me some R12.

looks like a good deal i saw a 92 here being sold for that much lol

i would guess its the injectors causing the random misfire one of them isn't injecting as much fuel as it needs to put some of that injector treatment in the tank my second guess would be something is funky with the ignition coil

oups yea 1.875" OD or 45mm ID is the stock diameter the thorleys do exit in 2.25" but if you want to save money on not building a custom pipe you can use 2.00" as it will bolt on without issues the flowmaster 60 is sold in 2.00" and 2.25" the magnaflow catalytic converters are available in 2.00" and 2.25" if you want to go the custom route, be careful as you may have clearance issues near the transmission crossmember and near the fuel tank

great now i'm getting this same nonsense it started a while back when at first it would just flood slightly on a cold start when putting the pedal down and its progressively been getting worse now i'm flooding almost every time i step on the gas when the engine is warm its going to be until monday when i should get it changed and i got about 20 miles to drive tomorrow hopefully this stupid bib doesn't cook my catalytic converter

why not look in members rides or off-topic sections

what i want to know right now is if the fittings on the r12 drier are different from the r134a drier

No my A/C system has been empty for some time now. A retrofit kit would not be enough since there is nothing to create a vacuum in the kit. There is a reason why you have to hook up your A/C system to a special machine to recharge the system. If you have a leak in the system then the drier goes bad. If I start with a new drier, the A/C will be much colder.

i thought 1.875" was what nissan used

what is the deal with the 2.25" piping anyway this is a small 3 liter v6 engine its pointless to go 2.25" unless you want sound and higher rpms lol you can get a flowmaster 60 in 2.00" and the stock 2.00" pipe can bolt up to the thorley headers with no problems i highly recommend a magnaflow cat if your cat is not good

My A/C doesn't work and its an R12 system. I want to make it work but there are so many road blocks in the way. For example I tried to buy some R12 refrigerant and was told that it is no longer made. Great! Now I have to use the crappy R134a and retrofit it. I tried to get an original receiver drier can from the dealership but that part has been deleted from the catalog. Now I don't know if the R134a canister will fit into the R12 system. Does anyone know if the R134a canister has the same fitting as the R12 canister? That would be nice because the R134a can has the DX7 desiccant that I need for the R134a retrofit. The last thing is the difference between the two fittings at the condenser on the high pressure line. Mine is leaking so I tried to put an R134a line there and it did not fit properly. So I had to grab another R12 one in a junkyard and noticed that the o-rings looked slightly different. The R12 one was kind of like a hollow cone as opposed to the R134a one which looked like a regular o-ring. Now I want to find out if the R12 line has a special o-ring or if it just becomes that way from being forced against the condenser fitting which also looks like a cone. If anyone has info on that it would be good too. I know that I'm going to have to get the "green" o-rings now for whatever components I'm replacing so that the R134a doesn't leak out. Thats why I have to know if a replacement "green" o-ring exists for that R12 high pressure hose. HELP!!!!!!!!!

yea my odometer is retarded and the trip odometers do not work at all but everything else works lol

ok but in order to make this look professional, you would need some decent grilles to put there assuming it all fits

3+3=33 ?!

87 grille gets better airflow however its really flimsy so yea switch them monthly lol

You can also tap into the transmission computer to get the temperature. See the Factory Service Manual on how to do that.

How?! Its going to collapse.

Perhaps it is the steering box itself that is failing? The bearings in it probably wear out causing those problems. However it has been 2 years since I had anything blow up on me. Did you lubricate your front end and the rag joint?

looks nice but kinda weird lol

My flux capacitor needs to be rebuilt and/or upgraded. The fluid looks clean to me. Are you sure theres crap inside? How do you get it out?

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