Spolar93

damn, $70 for $5 in steel and a half hour of welding? not only that, but it doesnt even bolt up right? and people wonder why no one wants to buy from the C-word.....

when you doing that jared?

welded the bolt on piece up and to the right, then welded brackets for a hi lift

yeah you use the same length fronts since the travel doesnt change. use 16" collapsed and 26" extended shocks for the rear

his thornbirds are bias ply tires. regardless of tire size, its recomended to run them lower than a radial tire. i run my tsls at 22psi on the street and they are wearing well. however, in the 4"+ snow/ice/slush i have up here right now, i dropped them down to 10psi front and rear and am getting pretty good traction. plus its fun to do powerslides with my lincoln locked rear!

thats why i replaced my studs with bolts. no problems anymore. when a stud breaks, it is usually below the surface, but when i bolt breaks, the head snaps off, leaving enough to use vicegrips to unscrew it.

to go with 88path's statements: -a 3" bodylift is needed unless you can find a large cowl hood. -any block hugger-style headers will work. i know hooker and hedman make sets for the 350 -gotta find someway to rrwire the dash gauges to work with the new engine you also get a MUCH larger selection of trannies and tcases. and if you go manual, theres even less wiring you need to go through

did you weld up the crossover pipe?

Pulling Into The Garage http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9474&hl= and another one you might find helpful: Welding the rear http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9922&hl=

learn how to stick weld, and use some big 7018 rod. thatll penetrate deep and hold everything together super tough

weld them up and you will never have to worry about them again.

15 mpg with a bad alignment and my truck packed to the gills with stuff. not bad for 33" tsls, which are extremely heavy

just get a voltmeter. if the voltage drops to much, like around 10v-11v, youre done.

hahaha ok whatever. itll be bad im sure, cause im so loaded with all my college stuff. i'm guessing 12-13mpg

i usually get 225 miles per gallon, but im driving 6 hours on flat eastern washington desert so ill get a better idea then

arb has the only one for our rigs i think. checkout www.4x4parts.com

if he was using a chevy engine/trans, no need to use an adapter plate. i have a couple np203/205 doublers already set up for $125 and a np203 with 3:1 for $50 near me dont tell me the tx10s are indestructable, ive broken it twice. once when my tranny output shaft splined out and wasted a handful f bearings and seals, leading up to destroying some of the front gears, to the second time when i snapped the chain on a ledge.

no need for hydro-assist even with 35's. d44 will be fine for those tires, super d44's with chromo and ctm ujoints are good through 37" locked, 38" being the absolute limit, the r&p being the final limiter. coil setup = eb hp44 with radius arms and eb 5.5" lift coils soa/sua = waggy lp44 with stock waggy leaves for soa and rancho 44044 for sua. heim steering is dumb, when heims break, they break nice and good which is not something you really want to happen with your steering. tre's , even when they are about dead will still function. you must be thinking hi steer. check out www.partsmike.com for a steering kit. stick with tie rods/tre. if you want to go full width, get a 9" for the rear and either do a custom 3/4 link with coils/coil overs, leafs, or try and transplant all the h233b stuff to the 9". you should just be fine using the stock h233b and longarming it and using either 4.5" lifted zj coils or 5.5" lifted eb coils. go over to skidplate alley at nissan4wheelers and rear every thread remotely involved with a sas and pm alot of those guys with your questions. yes, i mean read all 18 or so pages.

of why dont you ditch the ****** tx10 and step up to something gear driven like a new process?

its that fatty in the drivers seat's fault....

and your front still wont articulate

ive been in that garage!!

f off just giving a suggestion if he didnt want something permanant. i was expanding on an idea, thanks for your useless post

i used 3/4" aluminum spacers and longer bolts on the hood hinges. best thing about that is that in the fall/winter i can take the spacers out and put the original bolts back in and have my flush closed hood back. cost about $2 to do.

im about to groove my tsls. alot of people told me that it prolongs tread life if you cut the middle chevron in half. not to mention it will help the carcass flex so much better