Spolar93

to each their own i guess

e-40 - da dummy lil wyte - oxycotton jay z - my first song daft punk - something about us

hahaha itd be like wheelin an ifs/irs in the rocks though

89- trackbar mount on the front was only single shear, and heims + single shear mounting = boom! now if it was a tie rod end, which only requires a single shear mount, it would be fine, but heims always require a double shear, to "clamp" the misalignment and heim sandwich together. super- eh, its one of those things that you just crawl under the truck and fabricate. if you look through this link, theres a simpler one that uses the stock bracket, a 3"-4" 2"x3" tube and a gusset. http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...83110436221/p/1

and what looks to be an inch of uptravel....hahaha

weld your own? it really isnt hard, a few dollars in scrap tube, welder, and a cordless drill. 1. unbolt panhard bar 2. cut off original mount 3. weld on appropriate length section for lift 5. paint and reconnect 6. profit http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tp...65810561511/p/1

is the shroud a direct bolt on? hows that work, mounting wise?

damn, $70 for $5 in steel and a half hour of welding? not only that, but it doesnt even bolt up right? and people wonder why no one wants to buy from the C-word.....

when you doing that jared?

welded the bolt on piece up and to the right, then welded brackets for a hi lift

yeah you use the same length fronts since the travel doesnt change. use 16" collapsed and 26" extended shocks for the rear

his thornbirds are bias ply tires. regardless of tire size, its recomended to run them lower than a radial tire. i run my tsls at 22psi on the street and they are wearing well. however, in the 4"+ snow/ice/slush i have up here right now, i dropped them down to 10psi front and rear and am getting pretty good traction. plus its fun to do powerslides with my lincoln locked rear!

thats why i replaced my studs with bolts. no problems anymore. when a stud breaks, it is usually below the surface, but when i bolt breaks, the head snaps off, leaving enough to use vicegrips to unscrew it.

if you go out there to scout, get some pictures of the major stuff. gotta decide if its worth $50 in gas, not to mention my centerlink is completely shot, im just limping around on it until the summer when i sas

is it trails or just mud or what?

how far away is that from me

im on the palouse. wheres this place at?

manfred mann - blinded by the light

to go with 88path's statements: -a 3" bodylift is needed unless you can find a large cowl hood. -any block hugger-style headers will work. i know hooker and hedman make sets for the 350 -gotta find someway to rrwire the dash gauges to work with the new engine you also get a MUCH larger selection of trannies and tcases. and if you go manual, theres even less wiring you need to go through

did you weld up the crossover pipe?

Pulling Into The Garage http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9474&hl= and another one you might find helpful: Welding the rear http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9922&hl=

md 20/20 banana red

learn how to stick weld, and use some big 7018 rod. thatll penetrate deep and hold everything together super tough

weld them up and you will never have to worry about them again.

15 mpg with a bad alignment and my truck packed to the gills with stuff. not bad for 33" tsls, which are extremely heavy