Spolar93

got the long arms done for the rear. wb is at 108", moved it about an inch back from stock, nothing binds or rubs so far. lowers are 32" upper crossmember lower mount overall, im very pleased with this build. it was my first major project, and through all the mis matching of parts and custom stuff, i am pleased. a few things i wish i did differently are using a through the frame shackle hanger design to lower it a little more (winter 07 project), as well as use toyota rear leaves, or at least the main (summer 08 project.) ill get flex pictures soon, the rear brake line is taunt from moving the axle back, and im afraid to articulate and burst it. wish i couldve got the 3 link package from ballistic, that thing looks great! oh well, more future projects. . . . it never ends haha

i was gonna try and reuse the stock latch from my tire carrier. i dont really like the idea of using the spindle cause its so damn tall. might and up using a d44 spindle

bringing this back... whatd you use for the hinge? alot of people on pirate are using 1750lb trailer axle spindles. and what latch did you end up using?

adrianne at Pereda in portland did mine. he drilled out 3 broken studs, installed my thorleys and made everything work. his specialty is more OEM replacement stuff, so if youre gonna put manifolds back on, he's your guy. he was flexible with my headers, but told me up front that its not his type of work. my stuff was $800 to do all that. give him a call and tell him Grant Spolar recomended him!

ugh, finally she drives. that damn spring hanger took a whole day and a couple discs as well as a 5 pack of torch blades. brakes arent as bad as i thought theyd be. chevy mc later down the road probably though. gotta weld the bumper and get it on tomorrow. cant decide whether i want the bumpers and soon to be sliders to be satin black or gloss white like everything else. enough of my jibba jabba, i know you want pics Hot laps around the col de sac mild flex plenty of room towards firewall, hopefully wont have to mess with that, cause fenders are trimmed all the way. PROBLEMS: 1. turning radius to the left sucks. like barely turned out when at steering lock. draglink issue or steering stop? didnt check either cause i was too excited to get it out and wash it. 2. still gotta long arm it. not to bad, got all crossmember and link material. 3. gotta put the stock sway back on. sways like a mutha around corners. 4. not really a problem, but still gotta bump the front. enough of this internet @!*% im gonna go drink a few and celebrate!

thanks guys. aaron, how is yours looking? phew, still battling allergies, but got some more work done. long story short, all i have left to do is hook up the brake lines and bleed them (yay for speed bleeders), make some spring plates, and go get some degree shims for castor. ill be picking up a set of 4*, 6*, and 8* and seeing which one will work. im thinking 6* just by eye ball. shock towers welded in. hung like a monkey from one of them, and it didnt budge, so i probably wont gusset the back side, way to much work to get back there and im lazy. pass side looking towards drivers. my set of Bunk draglink/tie rod are perfect. just had to trim an inch off each TRE to make my toe right, didnt have to mess with the draglink ends at all. all 1 ton chevies ends btw passenger side flat top with all the crap on it. driver side looking towards pass. after mocking up the axle yesterday and using the center hole in the spring bad, i decided the drill out the back hole and move the axle forward 1.5" to get the tire out of the firewall. aprox. shackle angle, will be alittle more towards the frame when all the weight is on the springs and i throw my bumper back on. what it should look like. wb is at 106" right now, but after long arming the rear, itll be closer to 108"-109". cool beans! added some horsepower to move these big ass tires. i havent dynoed anything yet, but i think it gained 36hp. i know, awesome. hope to get this out and driving tomorrow, cross your fingers.

eh, since stainless is harder, im sure itd expand and contract differently. you should be able to find these at a hardware store.

i didnt use stainless steel. i guess i dont understand your question

14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs 1.88ea 14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs .65ea 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs 3.21ea or 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm (6) metric grade 5 8mm lock washers (12) metric grade 5 i used bolts instead of studs. i also know the guys at L&P used bolts instead of studs. bolts wont break in the engine head like studs will, theyll break right below the bolt head. the reason you get metric grade 5 instead of metric grade 8, is because the grade 5's metal make up is very close to the head's, so they expand and contract at about the same points. havent had a problem with mine, and dont expect to

BUSHINGS!!!! finally some real progress. allergies messed me up today so i just got the new bushings in, and did the panhard drop. my partsmike order came in, so i threw on the jam nuts and cone washers and loctited the steering arm on. 4" piece of 3"x2"x.125" tubing welded into the stock mount. .25" plate gusset and paint with panhard. really noticeable difference, tires are almost back to even in the wheel wells. bar is almost flat too! leaves done. rubber bushing at main eye, energy suspension at shackle, 3/8" grade 8 cap screw for centering pin. was worried about shackle angle, especially since i final welded and gusseted the mount, but i think it will turn out well. hope to make the spring plates tomorrow and get the trucks weight sitting on the axle. also have to reassemble the axle, and i found this perfect diagram of how to put everything back together. score!

ill be back in pullman beginning of august. well get together this year and wheel the east side, i know of a few places. this was a weird main eye size for waggies, 2" od bushing. finally found a pair in an old warehouse, i guess last in the NW is their story. go figure. yes, with the current short arms and this amount of lift, it looks like my 37"s will eat the door. hope to button up the front in the next few days then get to long arming the rear. gonna use 2"x2"x.25" square tubing for the lower links. beefy and if i run them flat side done like i plan, their length shouldnt be an issue in getting tangled up, as they should slide over everything. more updates tonight, im gonna be sweatin balls in my 90* garage!!

hahaha yes, i now own a 10mm flare wrench. this was my first ever brake job, so i never knew what i needed in the first place. however, i now know how to use a double flare tool, as i had to reflare that driver side brake line. i never want to do that again.... check my build thread for pictures

not much progress, because we cant seem to find bushings for the main eyes on the leaves. its almost like they dont exist anymore. the springs came off a 68 wagoneer if that helps. chased the threads on the calipers and got the gunk out. painted them with some engine block paint, installed the new banjos and speedbleeders, and loaded up the pads. dont forget to keep the piston clip and swap them over to the new pads gusseted and painted shackle mount using 2.5" long DOM sleeve and yj shackle bushings painted and partially assembled axle. anyone know a good website with pictures of the assembly of a d44? haynes manual doesnt really do squat 1 ton tre's, sky high steer, grade 8 hardware, pads and shock tabs welded in. flat top machining by http://www.jnutter.com/page2.html 1 day turn around and very knowledgable pitman arm reamed out for 1 ton tre. 24" stainless braided lines with nissan 10mm to standard adapter. didnt know anything about flair wrenches, so i stripped out one side and had to cut off the fitting and double flair the brake line. that was fun....not. im ~6' tall, almost 3' to bottom of doors, 23" to flatbelly, and 109" wb. yeah! hope to get those damn bushings so i can finish up this build, im sick of lookin at it in my garage.

damnit shouldve waited hahha. used a 10mm on the passenger side, worked fine after pbing it. drivers side.....rounded that sob. looks like ill be cutting off that fitting and reflaring the end. used teflon tape on the new fitting and it was on there pretty snug, so im hoping no leaks. btw, this was for an sas. 24" ss lines are loooooooooooooong...thanks for the help anyways!

40's only come in bottles. so bottles it is!!! however, any college student wont pass up a 30 bomb of busch light for $13 either

can anyone tell me where/how the soft and hard lines disconnect from each other? i pulled the clip, but just cant figure it out.

spring hanger welded in, still need to paint and possibly gisset on the back side diff cover is plated and finished. ended up cutting out the drain plug and flipping it higher on the cover, mainly for peace of mind shackle hangers tacked in place. checked for shackle angle, and it all looks good, so ill be burning that in and gusseting the piss out of it. the guys at ballistic fab, FINALLY got my order right, and i got all the correct tabs and tubes. nice pricing, and some trick brackets, but their customer service is shaky at best. took a couple calls to get the status and the correct parts re shipped out. approximate ride height. 82" to top of cab, a little under 3' to the bottom of the doors, so about 31-"32" to the bottom of my tcase, which is pretty much flush with the frame rails. 3" body lift is gonna stay on since its so much easier to work on the drive train under the truck, armor is already made to include it, and to fit a 350 or the like in these trucks, you need it on there to make space in the cramped bay. and a 350/383 on propane is in this rig's future

got knuckles painted up and sending the flat top out to get drilled and tapped for hi steer asap. gonna buy a reamer and do the tie rod and pitman arm tapers my self. cleaned up my 7 pack waggies and put in 3/8"x3.5" grade 8 cap head bolts. ordered energy suspension bushings, so waiting for those to come in. figured id just burn out the old one with my propane torch and press the new ones in. my dad jumped in and helped cut out the inferior suspension. suprised me because even though hes got mad crazy woodworking and handyman skills, he is one of those people that takes the vehicles in to change the oil. i know, crazy i tell you front spring hanger made out of 2"x2"x.25" and 1/4 plate. nuf said purty 6013 weld over a 6011 root pass. all the hard work is done, just gotta find time to put it all together. no chance this weekend, as ill be out of town friday-monday, but hopefully it will roll out next weekend ish.... oh, also, just placed an order to ballistic fab and ran up an $85 bill. front shock mounts. TRICK!! rear upper link tabs rear lower link bracket front shackle mounts. weld these to the underside then gusset with plenty of 1/4" plate also got a line on some rear shocks. remote res trailmasters that are 36" extended, 22" collapsed. big thanks goes out to my parts guy Joe at Baxters Auto Parts. Cut me some helluva deals and is just a great guy who provides excellent customer service.

ok sorry for the lack of updates. i work 40+ hours a week at a body shop, and by the end of the day im so tired from working on other peoples cars that its hard to muster energy for my own, so its slow going. ifs cut out, just gotta finish grinding it down. all these parts, just no time to put them in! haha enough material to long arm the rear. using 2"x2"x.25" flat side down. should help with getting hung up on the rocks and slide easier over crud. painted my cover then decided i was to cheap to buy a purple cranium cover. DOH! welded some 3" flat stock that i bent and cut to fit. still gotta finish welding on the fill plug side

im plannin on stroking a ford 5.0 to 347 and runnin bbq juice through it

stock ifs is listed int he for sale section if thats what you mean. ill be up in the seattle area wheelin a few times this summer, hopefully we can get your stuff out of the garage and stretch some legs!

mainly to get the front tires out of the firewall, especially with shackle reverse. and the rear, so get the tires out of the back door. already trimmed as much as i can from there.

A little background before you look at my junk. im 18 and go to WSU and have had this truck ever since i bought it almost 3 years ago. plans are a SOA front with waggy leaves, long arm 4 link w/ panhard rear, waggy d44, 37"s, more armor, yadi yadi yadi. stock wheelbase is 105", shootin for 108" ish last time rolling into the garage with InFerior Suspension she laid an egg?

im across the river in vancouver. i pretty much know my @!*% and wouldnt mind helping you out after my axle swap.

17"s are the new 15"s in the crawlin world. that is until step up to fodees, and then many people go to 20"s