Spolar93

all i can say is night and day. after putting one on, i will never run a rig with large tires and no steering stabilizer

i cannot understand one of your posts in this thread man. just registered for all my CE classes for the fall. i'm taking 16 semester credits, so not sure how thats gonna bode with my fraternity life. lol

swap to a manual.

how long until you solid axle the front and rear?

yeah, im getting a detroit for th back. even with the modded lsd with 1.5 discs added it isnt good for @!*% once you lift a tire. for the trans temp gauge, are you going to drill and tap the pan? i had originally machined up a manifold to stick the sender in line just before the inlet of my cooler. i think now i plan on dropping the pan and drilling/tapping it in there

never really been a sand kind of guy. i need to replace a cv axle and new bumper, and then i will be wanting to hit up tsf for sure

he said its probably not gonna come back for a while, if at all

reiters pit is up that way if i remember correctly

nice. i usually just take mine off

yep, we measured front and back of the tires, and only were off by a 1/4", so that should hold me over until i get a real alignment on tuesday. the whole process was real easy, we got the new tre and idler arm bushings in in about 30 minutes, no problems at all. sorry i cou;dnt chat with you longer aaron, you caught me right in the middle of repair. but yes, if you could pick up probably 3 assemblies for me (production date 10/92), id greatlt appreciate it. dont need them in a rush, just next time youre at the junker let me know.

on the sas axle or what? yes, i will since i'll be using a lp dana 44 out of a wagoneer

i dont plan on breaking 7. the whole assemblies cost $20 at the upull so im not worried.

theres also another way that i like better......sas. gonna be happening soon, thats why i dont mind just replacing the tre's. $60 worth of tie rod assemblies is alot cheaper and less down time than $400 worth of steering

not at all. i'm actually gonna take that off in the next few days and replace it with a painted aluminum diamond plate one i cut to fit and match the bumpers. stainless steel trim + 3 layers of dynamat extreme on that liftgate is not great. way to much weight, even with brand new struts. i'm sure i'll get tagged with tire coverage or bumper height before something silly like that

history on mine: 105k: tranny splined out the output shaft, destroying the planetary gears and killing my tcase with it too. luckily, after calling in some favors, it was only $2100 to rebuild both the tranny and tcase. after that i put in the biggest tranny cooler i could find, its half the size of my radiator and meant for rv's and such with 26,000lb gross vehicle weight, more than x5 my loaded weight!

so i went out today for a simple mud run, and i was nailing the bog and making it my bitch with these awesome swamper tsl's. well i get ambious and try to climb this soft dirt hill, but dont get up it after a few tries in 4lo, so i back off and i start to leave, however my tires keep pulling in weird directions and i'm gettin horrible bumpsteer. so i pull over into a parking lot, dreading to look at my tre's. sure enough, the passenger side one is bent nice and good. luckily my cv's and ubs didnt blow, and its just a simple $20 fix. however, i got my trans cooler installed and plumbed before, so today wasnt a big bust. its a huge hayden 26,000lb GVW, made for rvs and fifth wheel pullers. and i got to use my new rear bumper to pull out a buddy's heep. bent tre: heep recovery system: toe in: monster trans cooler:

its proven that lowering your tranny fluid temp 20 degrees doubles the life of your tranny.

haha yeah most of the drills sold have a 3/8" chuck. some have 1/2", but most of those are older corded drills

ideally you want to install in this order: 1. in front of ac condenser (100% efficient) 2. between condenser and radiator (70% effcient) 3. behind radiator (55% efficient) i just installed a hayden 405 26,000lb fin/tube motorhome/5th wheel tower cooler. its a beast, half the size of my radiator! im hoping that i wont have to get my trans rebuilt again

welcome back! get it running for this summer and we can have another evans creek run

nice bumper sag hahaha. i imagine how tired you are after all that. hell i had another guy helpeing me an it still took us 8 hours. definately worth it though

what part of vancouver are you in? i live on the east side by 164th and mill plain. i you wanna go wheelin some time, you should meet up with a couple other portland metro area guys

its not that established members dont like answering easy questions, its just when one member repeatly asks questions over and over again about things that are easily answered by 5 minutes witht the search feature. this is an incredible database full of information that hasnt been tapped to its full potential by many members. use it first, and then ask your question. 9/10 youre gonna find the answer, and then you can add to that topic and give feedback on the method, or add problems or advice and build on it.

if you look, i did not tell him to search. its just some users expect to be spoon fed every answer to every question they think of. i like a productive forum, and enjoy seeing new topics everytime i log on, however, its annoying seeing rediculus questions over and over by a member who knows how this forum works. if you dont like it, leave, its that simple, this forum isnt for everyone. i'm done in this thread

i cant belive you see more value in this stupid money pit. get real, the most youll ever see a wd21 go for is $5000. low miles, ex condition, etc. unless you sas or engine swap or find a really really really stupid buyer, youre just kiddin yourself.