Spolar93

yeah, i'm planning on running the 37" rockers when i sas this next year. theyre badass, excpet for the goofy ass width. sidewall numbers are huge, and they recommned a 15x12 wheel! crazies....

33 splines are on the frontier and x. 31 splines are on the pathfinders and hardbodies.

gotta buy them from nissan. i used the 1.5's, which is the middle one out of 1.4, 1.5, and 1.6. its alittle better when both tires are on the ground and chirps if i give it a little gas around corners . but even if you lift a rear tire, it will still break loose. sometime i can give it a little brake and it will sorta work out, but its going to be nothing like the detroit im putting in the back soon!

stay away from procomp tires. they have paprer thin side walls. if youre even worried the slightest about fast wear, get away from swampers. im about ready to groove my TSLs. ill tell you what, airing these doen to about 8psi off road almosy makes up for being open in the front. these things are mean in the rocks and trails and pull like a bitch in the mud

as far as gasket is concerned, yes youll want to replace it, either by using rtv gasket-in-a-tube type deal or getting a new one from a parts store. ill have to look at my pan/exhaust today, since i nee to drop my pan as well, to drill and tap for a temperature sender

go to a spray bay, and they have a special low pressure engine degreaser/cleaner. i used that recently to clean the dried mud and grease out of my engine compartment and fenders when i pulled broken studs and installed my headers and stuff. worked great and after i sprayed that on, i just used the low pressure rinse option. cost me $1.50

well, actually, if you had manual hubs, you could always get out and unluck the inside hub when turning. but i would be worried about your cv axles exploding if they got too much traction. especially at full lock.

it will be hard to steer offroad with 4hi/lo engaged. also, the front diffs are not that strong to begin with, so welding it up will just add more strain. i've blown my front r&p without welding it.

used duct tape to hold the long body mount bolt in the back corner after putting in my body lift and wrecking the threads. with out the ducttape and bolt, the body block would pop out over bumps. ended up finding a two foot long 1/2" bit and bored out the hole and hole sawed some of the floor away. i'll upload pics of it tomorrow

east, west, its all desert to me.

what would be better, since i'll be pulling broken studs out? 300zx studs or just using 8.8 or 10.9 bolts? anyone ever used bolts instead of studs?

aaron, did you get out and take that picture? hahah i can only imagine trying to get back in...

thanks man, i try. haha gotta start that sas soon, but college is coming and im pretty busy, so its staying ifs until next spring/summer. its a shame, because i have the axle all ready to go minus gears and lockers, and i welded up the spring hanger and have the springs. so close....

im in vancouver, just north of portland. went wheelin yesterday. only dunes are gonna be sand lake and i belive thats in eastern oregon.

so my boot is extremely ripped, and the joint is blown up. i took off the wheel and was trying to un bolt the 12 point bolts, but everytime id go to reef on them the axle would turn, 2wd or 4wd. both tires were removed, if i left the other side on and on the ground, would that let the axle lock in 4wd so it wouldnt turn? also i have suto hubs, could these be a factor?

all i can say is night and day. after putting one on, i will never run a rig with large tires and no steering stabilizer

swap to a manual.

how long until you solid axle the front and rear?

yeah, im getting a detroit for th back. even with the modded lsd with 1.5 discs added it isnt good for @!*% once you lift a tire. for the trans temp gauge, are you going to drill and tap the pan? i had originally machined up a manifold to stick the sender in line just before the inlet of my cooler. i think now i plan on dropping the pan and drilling/tapping it in there

he said its probably not gonna come back for a while, if at all

nice. i usually just take mine off

yep, we measured front and back of the tires, and only were off by a 1/4", so that should hold me over until i get a real alignment on tuesday. the whole process was real easy, we got the new tre and idler arm bushings in in about 30 minutes, no problems at all. sorry i cou;dnt chat with you longer aaron, you caught me right in the middle of repair. but yes, if you could pick up probably 3 assemblies for me (production date 10/92), id greatlt appreciate it. dont need them in a rush, just next time youre at the junker let me know.

on the sas axle or what? yes, i will since i'll be using a lp dana 44 out of a wagoneer

i dont plan on breaking 7. the whole assemblies cost $20 at the upull so im not worried.

theres also another way that i like better......sas. gonna be happening soon, thats why i dont mind just replacing the tre's. $60 worth of tie rod assemblies is alot cheaper and less down time than $400 worth of steering