Spolar93

looks to me like the long arm mod for the rear?

any tips on getting that c clip off? its one there pretty tight, not to mention its hard to get my hands down into that hole and get it off.

yeah, i had to use a cum a long and my buddy's jeep to persuade my body to sit right. always those last two back bolts.....

yeah it is, but thats the way li like it. just wanted something simple.

nope, basically the inside is 3 vertical pieces of .5" stock connecting the top and bottom. tested the sides and middle with a hilift, and they hold just great. really really over built this bumper.....

hey thanks 87, but yeah, older pathies use 27 splines, and the 90-95 use 28. yeah, i dislike the autos, as theyve slipped out a few times, but since i'm low on money, i'm waiting for these to either grenade and replace them, or if i get a hell of a deal on a set youre my boy rami, but after this beast together, i'm all bumpered out. i'll gladly give you a hand though man you gonna be available to go wheelin anytime soon though man?

no sir, i dont really like them, thats the one thing i dislike about on the arb's. i'll be putting a set of procomp 5x7 floods on the bumper, then some 6" or 8" spots on top of the fenders, cop style.

total cost was just $50 for the harbor freight winch plate. plate steel was free at my school, best part! i just gotta run down to 4wheel parts and grab a pair of d rings and i'll be set. not sure if i'll have a winch by then, as i'd rather have tires that have tread on them. right now my AT's are on their last leg, so i'm not sure how april is gonna go down

thanks guys, its really great to get it done and over with. as much as i like fabricating, i love using it even more. just gotta throw some d ring shackles on there and it'll be done.

no worries man, i'll be lengthening it tomorrow. 4lo here i come

thank you sir, thats exactly what i wanted. a little better than the procedure you explained to me on IM

I'd like to start off by giving a big thank you to Nissan Nut over on N4W.com. great idea, and thanks for answering my questions: onto the pics: Flexing on some rocks. I hate IFS... Drive way shots: what do you guys think? i'm pretty pleased by my first big project. Entire bumper is made of 1/4" plate, cut on a cnc plasma cutter and tig welded together by myself. recessed turn signal pockets, three 3/8" vertical supports inside each side, driving light brackets, yadda yadda yadda. only think that kinda bugs me is that it looks like it cuts down on my departure angel, but that didnt seem to hinder me rock crawlin on the old rock pile. hopefully the rear bumper will turn out as good as richardz_nc, another great bumper idea.

i'm lookin at 9-16, and i'm completely lost. if anyone can tell me in laymans terms, or with a picture, i'd appreciate that.

can anyone tell me how to pull the shifter out? gotta bend, cut, and weld but just cant see where to start.

i can get you pics of what i look like with 6" and 31's. i'll also grab you a picture of my tcase shifter before i take it out and bend and weld in a longer segment

not that one, this one: so much sex....

hahah well what i meant was that everyone's rear can flex, its just getting the front nice and tucked is most of the battle. btw, the third pic down has been my background for the past few weeks ever since i saw it over on nissan4wheelers. great rig man, way clean.

who cares about the rear stuffing, look at that front!!!

i got a 3" sl, and everyone that i talked to about it, recomended stock length in the front, then 16" compressed, 26" extended in the back. i got those in the ProComp e3000 flavor, and am running them right now, and get some pretty nice flex in the back, even with my rear sway bar still on

co2>compressed air, because co2 is sored in liquid form, allowing it to expand into a gas once it exits the cylinder, so there is more usable "gas" in the cylinder. not to mention its a larger molecule than just compressed air, so theres less leaking out of your tires during driving

damn, looks like i should jump on these before they creep to much higher. how do you guys like the rough countrys?

ok, just called rough country, and the nissan ucas will cost $199 a set, so about the same as the ACs. the only thing that i have heard about the ucas is that the ACs are good, the Rough Countrys are better, and the Superlifts are best. i've heard that from a few people on these boards, and my ifs guy at 4 wheel parts

rough country ucas are a good choice too. theyre between AC's (bad) and superlifts (best) in price. theyre about the same as the superlifts from what i here. i emailed them today asking for how much they are seperate from the kit. i'll get back to you and let you know the price

i got a new set of rancho rs5000s and a rancho ss. also my parents helped me out money wise when my front diff went out. sure glad i didnt have to pay the $1400 bill on that.