Spolar93

sorry man, to far north for me. but as pickles said, take your time and do things right, its fairly easy just takes a while. geta buddy to help, stuff like loosening/tightening the body bolts and jacking really need another set of hands. not to mention one person can be messing with the engine bay stuff while the other is breaking the bolts loose. air tools are nice to have, but you can get by with a 2'-3' cheater pipe. iirc, my lift took about 8 hours, from 10am-6pm. you could spread it out over two days if you want, but its really doable in one. mine took forever because the back right bolt wouldnt thread, so we ended up drilling and enlarging the hole through the floor and running a 1/2" bolt through. back 2 bolts were a bitch to line up as well

i figure that itd be best to to know the highest temperature, becasue it wont matter how cool the fluid is after the cooler, the hot stuff is burning up my tranny now!

basically, if any irrepairable damage at all happens to the tire with in the first 50% of tread life, i get a new tire no questions asked. after 50%, its pro rated replacement only put about 300 miles on them so far, but they still have nubbies

where in wash?

well doing it inline would be a whole hell of a lot easier than drilling and tapping the pan. when i do the dual coolers, i'll just put it in then.

33" Super Swamper Bias-Ply TSLs. cost $720 with lifetime warranty on cuts, rips, punctures, etc wheels were an extra $150

plenty of knee clearance, its actually closer to my shin. my seat is back almost all the way since i'm a lanky guy thats my wonderful girlfriend, shes the greatest thing that has happened to me in a long time. thats the greatest mod i've done so far

cut this out on the band saw and bent it up with the ole break. the blank hole is awaiting a matching trans temp gauge, as soon as i install dual explorer tranny coolers and drill and tap the pan for the sensor. Close up Blurry full view Just hit some mud, you know how that goes sly

well i'll be in pullman august 16th going to college at wsu, so i could make it up your way. we could go to 7 mile ohv if you want something that had varying levels of difficulties and bypasses

yep, bent it straight, cut the shifter, added 2" then tig welded the 3 pieces back together. fits perfectly, almost back to stock size/throw. i have another one that i will be modding and putting up for sale that came with my replacement tcase i had bought. thanks for the info, hopefully i'll be able to post some pictures up of the bumper and stuff tomorrow.

so i just got done welding up my new receiver hitch bumper, and would like to tap into the wiring harness out back for brake, turn, and reverse light hookup. any ideas on where or what color?

nope, calmini and 4x4parts.com sell a drop in replacement lsd for the front http://purenissan.com/r200a_lsd.htm http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...c46dee77e0e1603

well maybe i'm wrong. they didnt spark when i put them on the beld grinder and theyre light as hell. anyways, my opnion is that they suck, and dogbone is the way to go.

Before: Busted the broken one outta there: Another: Installed: So who wouldve thought that those lower control arms are not only aluminum, but hollow and thin? pretty lame if you ask me. Picked up a older set of the dogbone style arms from 87path and imediattly could feel the difference. Cast Steel > Tubular Aluminum. However, i still didnt feel like they were beefy enough for me, so i garbbed some 2"x2"x.25" angle steel for sliders and mig welded them on and painted them bright ass red to match every other part on my rig. no more bent arms for me. hell, look at those comparison pictures again!

looks good, only thing i dont like is the gap between bumper and headlights. why is that there?

alright, just warning you. youre gonna need some quick disconnects called weather packs. go over on 4x4parts.com's forum and pm a guy named ricahrdz_nc about how he did his on his fronty

id be careful if its a r50, as they are unibody and the doors are a large part of chasis ridgidty, same thing with jeep xj's

local car wash guys know me and wont even touch my rig. always spouting bs excuse about my roof rack, radio antenna, cb antenna, lift height, etc. they say that i have to much mud and that i'd clog every filter. got tired of my driveway looking like a desert so i just use the local spray bays. not reallly into waxing anyways, just hate rubbing up against the dry mud when i'm wearing white.... why the hell am i still typing....hhhaha

slick, i didnt know that there were so many speed bumps around the mall that you need a belly skid? hahaha jk

i know dozens of trucks with anywhere from 4cyl to big v8's and almost all of them use flowmaster 40s. about $60 a pop and sound very good, and take a beating off road. a buddy basically sat his muffler on a rock and there was little more than a dent, didnt even crush it.

nice man. after i get my trailmaster lift on and new header back exaust system this summer i'm gonna bend up a full skid out of 3/16" from my fairlead, down my bumper supports and back to the back of the tcase. reference my sig pic to see what i'm talking about. that angle iron idea is pretty good, i'll have to incorporate it in mine!

jones creek ohv down here in vancouver. bet thats to far for all you puget people, but its my home field and its nice

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BODY-LIFT-B...sspagenameZWDVW you'll still need to get bolts that are 3" longer, and some hardware stores might not have the right metric size and grade. also needed is a gas filler extension, gas vent hose, 2 power steering pump hoses and a new upper radiator hose, dont know how much cheaper it will be, and you wont have bumper relocation brackets or in structions

so whens the next one? hahaha. how were the trails? would you run them again? any requirments you guys now agreee on? i say this summer we take a trip to reiters

hop you guys are tearing it up. remember, its mind over matter: you dont mind rolling, and the sheet metal doesnt matter