nissandoms47

Cause hes from back east. They're weird over there lol.

wtf is up with everyone and their engines dying lol.

Sexy caliper

Ah you'll like the OME lift. I ran that at first back in the day.

You shouldnt even really replace them unless the D shaped hole where the strut goes into the mount is rounded out.

Its a whole lot easier then in real life. Just trying to get the heavy engine out of the engine bay is tough enough, trying to take it out with a torque converter attached it even more difficult. You dont need to drain it. But what I was saying was that even tho the TC just slides off the splines, if you put any other kind of force on the input shaft, like up and down or side to side it'll mess something up. For me it messed up the input shaft seal. The only kind of force you want to put on that input shaft is outward force.

Use some vice grips and twist it off. And if that doesnt work, hammer the vice grip with a huge hammer.

Lookin good, reminds me of mine back in the day minus the winch.

you will have to do what i did, remove the torque converter with the engine very carefully. Then destroy the engine. I had to disassemble my entire old engine to get the torque converter off. Piston rods 1 and 2 were thrown. Rod 1 was jammed between cylinder 1 and 2 in a U shape. But make sure when you take the torque converter out with the engine that you replace the input shaft seal. I didnt notice that i ripped mine or whatever and my tranny started leakin bad.

Or ditch the brush guard lol. $250 for the rear wtf. You dont really need any tools except a 17,19,21mm and a ratchet and a fat person to stand on the drum to get the springs in.

If the power steering pump is gone it will be difficult to turn at times. But what you're describing seems to be a worn out pump. The impeller inside the pump just wears out over time.

Yes, any extra length will risk damaging the CV when full extended.

The best way to use seafoam is to get it into a foamy state before it even enters the engine. I have this cool little hose that is made specifially for this. One end you stick onto the brake booster hose tight and the other goes into the seafoam can. Inbetween there is a Y and one part of the Y just sucks in air and dilutes it or foams it up or w/e it does.

Yeah they'll fit.

no.

Might as well get one. I'll take one in white to match my white pathy.. Losers with weirdo colors.. lol

I have some kenwood excelons in mine. I had to trim the housing of the tweeter to make it fit inside the OEM grille. I just used double stick tape to hold it in place.

Yeah just disconnect the shocks and have someone stand on the drum. Thats how we got the rears springs in on all the AC lifts ive done lol.

Thats too much work for no gain.. I had a 1" strut spacer on top of the whole strut assembly and some 1.5" long grade 8 bolts and it held up fine..

That stealth box looks pretty sweet. One thing I would like is to have it factory looking. That stealth box looks pretty factory vs just a sub in a box in the back.

Oh lol well you said 2003 pathfinder which only comes equipped with the VQ.

You waisted a lot of time taking the front end off. I would remove the front diff and take the motor mounts out with the engine. Taking the diff out gives you direct access to those bolts. As for the top tranny bolts you need like a ton of extentions and a universal or 2. Make sure you take out the torque converter bolts. As for the exhaust unbolt them from where the cat meets the downpipe.

You sure it has 4.6s? All VQs that I know of came with 4.3s. But im not too sure about the rare 5 speeds. Make sure they double check the tag in the engine bay.

Does it really make that much of a difference though? Going from 4.3s to 4.6s. I'm on 33s and I can barely stay at 70 and be under 2700 rpms sometimes.

Tyler dont you still have that unit from the pathfinder? Measure that because they're the same housing that was used in the xterra/frontier.