Steve_RI

I have the Garvin Rack mounted on my Pathfinder; however, I used there fiberglass cab mount instead of the factory rails. This requires removing the headliner, drilling, and using some spacers to get it to mount correctly. The end result is a rack that can hold a couple hundred pounds no problem. I have had almost 500lbs up there on some occasions.

I have a Garvin rack mounted to the roof using their fiberglass cap mounting system. I used some zinc washers as spacers, and there is additional drilling involved to tighten the bolts, but I have had 500lbs in this rack with no problem.

As noted above, the brake booster is the big circular shaped object located behind the master cylinder. There is a vacuum hose about the diameter of your pinkie finger that runs along the firewall to the booster. There's only one hose like that so it should be unmistakeable. There's a junction in this line bolted to the firewall. With the engine running pull the vacuum hose off and the truck should stumble. Put your thumb over the hose and you should feel suction. Voila, there it is. Follow Sea Foam directions from there.

Hey a fellow New Englander.....Looks great....how are you attaching to roof?

59 ft/lbs

I have the Motive bleeder. It works well, but on the Nissan you need to use the universal adapter (in your pic on the right) on the MC. It can be difficult to get a good seal, but once everything is sealed properly it makes bleeding the brakes a breeze. Don't overpressurize the system; I usually pump it up to 8-10psi. You can also download the instructions from the motive sight if they don't come with the unit.

The stock Nissan MTF (GL-4) is approximately 12.0cSt at 100 degrees celcius. MT90 is a 75W90 weight at about 14 cSt. Redline MTL has a viscosity of 11.1 cSt. These fuids are fully synthetic and have worked fine in both of my Pathfinders. The MT-90 will be toughter to shift in cold temps, so the best thing to do is mix it with some MTL to bring the viscosity down closer to 12.0cSt. They are completely compatible.

Hmmm, that's interesting because I was under the assumption that the "5:30" position was referring to the allen key insert on the tensioner, not which way the actual allen wrench is pointing? This is confirmed by looking at the FSM diagram for proper tensioning. I've done it twice now and I can't recall how you would end up in that position and not have the belt too loose or too tight. Are you using the tensioner spring? (After looking closely, I can see the spring in your pic)

Actually, ATF contains little, if any, detergents. It's usually the chemical flush that is used in some shops that cause the problems. I would just do drain and refills. Keeping that old, additive depleted fluid in there, is just going to kill you tranny quicker. For the detergent in ATF: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...ic;f=5;t=002977

You might try a Wix oil filter just to see if there is any difference. These are quality oil filters as well and they have a reliable silicone ADBV. The NAPA Gold and CarQuest Premium filters are also rebadged Wix filters.

Well, the fact that it sits for a while allows most, if not all, oil to drain to the pan. A filter with a leaky ADBV will only compound the issue. The Mobil1 flows quickly, so that is not the issue assuming you use the 5W/10W - 30? Sludge deposits could impede the flow of the oil, but since you use Mobil1 this is probably unlikely.

So OR99.5Speed, did you put a stock nissan clutch in your truck? I'm curious as to what that guy Dave had to say.

Build date should be on the driver side door

The synthetic Supertech at Walmart is also a cheap semi-syn. It's made by Warren Performance Products and is pretty good for the $, IMO.

Mr. Pickles, a question on that kit you bought off ebay (the Chassis 1 stuff). What components have grease fittings? It looks like the ball joints do, but I can't tell if the tie rods do. thanks!