Steve_RI

Okay, I got it now....thanks for the heads up.

I thought that the flange on CAT was going to mount to the flange on Gibson muffler. I guess this is not going to be as easy as I thought. Thanks for the help.

Dexron VI is completely compatible with the older specs, so use it with no worries. I have it in my PS pump myself. I use RP syncromax in the transfer case. It's a GL-4 gear oil with the viscosity of an ATF (about 7.5cSt). I have the manual tranny, so no worries if they mix.

This looks to be pretty straightforward, but I have never played with the exhaust before on this truck. At the cat, I'm going to cut the bolt heads off because everything is pretty rusty. The Gibson has a welded flange, but am I going need a gasket or anything else for this? I see that Gibson provides new bolts. Is cutting those bolts off the best idea or is there a better way? Thanks.

Resolution...this ended up being the deck, a cheap Insignia deck. Just as well, because the radio reception in this thing sucked from day one. I ended up grapping a basic Pioneer deck as a replacement. I have never had any issues with Pioneer. Thanks for the help.

Nope, your math is good; viscosity mixing is linear. MT-90 and MTL also use the same base fluid. Another tidbit is that the Nissan stuff is a 75W/85.

I figured it was the transmission. MT-90 is a little thick compared to the OEM stuff, which has a viscosity of 12.1cSt. MT-90 is 14.0 or so cSt. Now this wouldn't matter if you were in a warm climate, but I remember when it got cold, my shifting got a little notchy. The easy thing to do is add a quart or more of Redline MTL. MTL has a vis. of 11.1cSt. This will get you closer to the 12.0-12.5cSt range, which is optimal for these transmissions. These two GL-4 fluids mix just fine. Right now I have the OEM stuff and my shifting is fine in any temp here in New England.

You mentioned GL-4 in the transfer case at the beginning of the thread, do you mean the transmission? The reason I ask is because you are talking about notchy shifting.

I crimped all the connections, and the connections at the amp look solid. I need to pull the deck and check there. I didn't even think of the speaker wires.... I did use RCA out to the amp.

First my setup: I have an aftermarket deck with an amplifier that is powering two door speakers. I ran new speaker wire, so I am not using the stock amps or anything. It’s a pretty simple setup. Well, the deck has started working intermittently. There is still power to the deck because the background lights are still working, but it shuts on and off at random. The power to my amp also cuts out when this happens. Is there any an obvious spot to start without ripping everything apart and checking connections? Could it be the deck itself?

I just ran new speaker wire to my amp/headunit to bypass factory unit.

Yea, I definitely pulled a 5X7 out of mine.

I just put 6.5 polks in the the front door of my 92. These are pretty shallow 6.5's. I had originally intended to use these in the rear, so I had the mounting plate for the speaker boxes. I got rid of the speaker boxes so I used this plate for the front, which worked fine. You can also modify the existing plate/trim ring to accomodate a 6.5 speaker.

You can use OTC 7270A and grind two of the tabs off. That part is probably more readily available and cheaper.

This is exactly what happened to my 89 when it was totaled in a head on collision in 2005, but it was the passenger side footwell in my case. I am just glad I was alone when it happened. Any passenger in the car would have had their legs shattered, no doubt.

Weathertech makes a nice cargo liner; I love mine. I don't have the part number handy though.

When I did mine I had to sawzall the drivers side, but the passenger side popped right out with the tap of a hammer. You never know what you are going to get with these older rigs....

Sounds good, post some pics when it is installed. $650 is a lot of cash for a rack. I paid about $450-475 for my setup . I didn't order it from Garvin, but I forget the website. I don't have light bars, but that would be nice someday. The only adapter I have is for the Thule/Yakima load bars.

Those emails are long gone, but I remember the details. The rack is 44" (W) X 48" (L). Mine is also 4" deep. I see that off-road racks are only 6" deep now. So, it's just personal preference whether you want a sport rack or an off-road rack. I would still go with the off-road rack. The fiberglass cap mount you want has the metal backing plate. I think they have one that srews into the fiberglass. You do not want that one. Just let Garvin know that that this is a custom job and that it is not specifically made for the Pathfinder when ordering. If you go this route I can send you some detailed pics as well. I have done it on two Pathfinders, so I can also give some helpful tips and save you some grief.

I have the off-road rack, not the sport rack. It wouldn't be anything listed for the truck anyway. I ordered a certain size rack with those feet. It's been ages, but let me see if I can find those part numbers.

I posted a pic in this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20881 Can you view it?

I have the Garvin Rack mounted on my Pathfinder; however, I used there fiberglass cab mount instead of the factory rails. This requires removing the headliner, drilling, and using some spacers to get it to mount correctly. The end result is a rack that can hold a couple hundred pounds no problem. I have had almost 500lbs up there on some occasions.

I have a Garvin rack mounted to the roof using their fiberglass cap mounting system. I used some zinc washers as spacers, and there is additional drilling involved to tighten the bolts, but I have had 500lbs in this rack with no problem.

As noted above, the brake booster is the big circular shaped object located behind the master cylinder. There is a vacuum hose about the diameter of your pinkie finger that runs along the firewall to the booster. There's only one hose like that so it should be unmistakeable. There's a junction in this line bolted to the firewall. With the engine running pull the vacuum hose off and the truck should stumble. Put your thumb over the hose and you should feel suction. Voila, there it is. Follow Sea Foam directions from there.

Hey a fellow New Englander.....Looks great....how are you attaching to roof?