Steve_RI

I took a look at the FSM and it indicates that the vehicle speed sensor code (under diagnostic procedure 26) will set off that check engine lamp. I ordered a speedo cable, got a pretty good price too, $49 delivered. This should take care of the issue.

Sorry, took a vacation day yesterday to take advantage of the snow. Yes, this is the yellow emissions light. I checked my mileage on the trip and I got just under 19mpg. I was afraid that I would get horrible mileage, but that's pretty good. Temps aren't too bad today, so I'll try to get out there and poke around a bit.

Well, the list of issues is piling up. Got some work to do in the Spring. My emissions light is on. Ran codes and got back 14 in mode 3 - vehicle speed sensor....my speedo is out right now so no surprise there. Any tips on how to chase this down? I put a new o2 sensor in about 6 months ago.

I use one of the acid based wheel cleaners, Eagle One I think. Does a good job, I'm not worried about the finish on the Legos anymore, so that's not a worry.

Okay, thanks man. Yea, it looks like around $50 for the replacement. Quick question....is it easier to feed the new cable down from the dash or up through the dash?

During the last cold snap I lost my speedometer/odometer. I took it apart today and found this: This piece came out of the end of my speedo, I assume this is the problem?

I remember doing this on my 89 twice. I burned out the bushings and replaced them with poly. They started to squeak like hell and I pulled them again. I used some Aluminum based moly grease and they were fine after that up until the truck was totaled a couple years later. I don't know if I would put a poly bushing in there if I ever have to do this on my 92.

warming the hose up a bit, good idea, I did not think of that...

I just went through this on my 92 - used 5/16 hose. I also replaced mine without loosening the fuel rail. I just slid the new hose down enough so I could feed it on the other side without bending/crimping the hose. It will be pretty obvious once you cut the old hose off. My problem was that I used replacement clamps that were too big. A good long set of needle nose pliers will do the trick.

you nailed it, I don't know what I was thinking, the clamps were too big.

Yea, sorry, 5/16. I thought it might have been 1/4, but 5/16 looked dead on. It has to be the clamp then, thanks.

What size is the rubber fuel line that connects the fuel rails...the short one up front right next to the distributor? I replaced it with 5/8 hose, but it's still leaking. I have it clamped good, but I guess I can't rule out a bad clamp. Thanks.

Is this a late 92 with the 93+ bumper/trim? This was a weird year for the Pathfinder because there was some additional changes as well, like steering components, etc. I know I have to be careful ordering parts for my 92, which is an early one (10/91production date)

Redline makes MT-85 which is the factory spec for the Nissan tranny. When I ran straight MT-90 in my long gone 89, the tranny got a little notchy in the winter here in the Northeast. The guys from the warmer climates would never notice this I would imagine. I have posted the specs of most of the good GL-4 gear oils in the past if they are still available via search. The cure for the notchy tranny in the cold was to mix some MTL with the MT-90. With the MT-85 that is no longer an issue. I still have the Nissan 75W85 in my 92 tranny and still shifts quite smooth. I'm going to need a clutch in the near future and I will most likely change it then. If I can get a deal on the Nissan stuff I would definitely use that again, but the last time I checked the MT-85 was cheaper.

I would love to find a donor truck locally but they are very hard to find...as a matter of fact I rarely see any pre 96 Pathinder. If I do, they are usually rusted to hell. I guess I'll wait until I have the pieces I need, the braces and headliner (especially). One more quick question....does the rear light get relocated in this or does it stll mount in the same spot?

I have been wanting to add rear speakers for a while now to my 92. I removed the boxes years ago and I have the speaker box, but I do not have the cross member piece or the headliner. How critical is the brace here? I was thinking of cutting the headliner to fit and upholstering the section with the speakers, but that may end up looking like crap. I would love to find a donor vehicle, but these trucks are very hard to find these days around here.

I am assuming you have heat? Are the upper and lower radiator hoses equally warm when the truck is warmed up good? This will indicate whether the waterpump or thermostat are working. I have had problems in the past with the truck running hot when the fins on my radiator deteriorated badly (Lots of salt use in winter here in Northeast).

I adapted a Garvin rack to fit my 92. I just measured it up and found one that fit well. I used the mount for the fiberglass caps. It was some work, but it is very solid. I have had a couple hundred pounds up there no problem. I do like that new style with the deflector built right in though.

Okay, after round 2 everything looks good. The only issue now is that I need a new front skid plate. I was test driving the truck and I had the skid plate lying on the ground next to my trash and one of the many scrap metal guys came by and snagged it. Bad timing, I tried like hell to find him, but no luck. I have a post up in parts wanted, but if anyone has one for sale let me know.

I got a leak at the water pump, what a royal PITA this is turning out to be. I was never a big fan of that wp gasket, I must have overlooked somethng putting it on....probably means a new T-belt as well.

Well, I took the WP off and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I flushed the motor, blew out the heater lines, checked the thermostat again for good measure and put everything back together. I had some trouble with the T-belt, but it fired up and everything is fine now. I do not think the WP was an issue, so I think it may have been some sort of trapped air issue as several of you suggested. Thanks for the help, I'm just glad it's good to go now for summer.

Ordering up some parts .... No, I haven't really needed to add any coolant (I use G-05) since I changed the T-belt in June 05, so I haven't had anything leaking. I probably should have flushed the coolant at the 5 year mark, but I do not put a lot of miles on the vehicle. The radiator was beat up, but internally it looked fine. I suspect I'm going to find the system plugged up at the water pump, which I am going to replace regardless of the condition.

Well, it has to be the water pump because the bottom hose is not getting warm. I don't know why I didn't think to check that earlier. There must be some sediment or something in the water channels blocking the flow because I doubt the impellers on the pump are an issue. I'm a little early for a T-belt, but it doesn't make any sense not to change that out at this point. I'll post back what the solution was. Thanks for all the help.

I know I'm a little light on the coolant because I am not getting any coolant to the heater. I have the T-fitting from the prestone flush kit on the upper heater hose, so I can peek in there and clearly see there is no coolant. I would think that would be the best spot to bleed the system since it is the highest point? That has worked well in the past. I am going to try to bleed this thing one more time as I do not want to take this thing apart again, yet!

I made sure to put the thermostat with that valve up, but it should still be circulating fluid...I put nearly two gallons of coolant in?