t0ast

To be honest, I'm not a fan of two-tone paint jobs, but I love your mud and green color scheme.

Most people run it along the railing to the back and have the wire enter at the rubber grommet that contains the wiring for the rear hatch. That's the cleanest way, but it requires longer wiring.

Looks really nice. Can you get a pic from the side to see how well it follows the A-pillar?

Turn on your radio, and give the antenna a pull and see if it comes up. My antenna used to stick in certain segements cuz it was bent slightly. If it does come up with a pull, then you can pull the antenna out. As its coming up, grab the last segment, and give it a pull as the motor is still running. Kinda scary the first time, but the antenna end will pop loose and the motor will continue to push the rope out until the end. Then you can check if the rope is broken on the end. It'll save you some time pulling the motor out and taking her apart when you might not need to if the rope isn't broken. But the clunk sounds like the rope is broken so you probably will have to pull the motor anyways.

http://www.ninfiniti.com/

I think its actually much much easier if you pull off the interior panels, which are pretty easy to do. However, I was stupid back then and did it without the interior panels off. I popped off the taillights and pulled the plug out from behind the rubber cover. I think I dropped a weighted wire down into the rear quarterpanel. Then I popped the grommet off from underneath and used the wire to fish the trailer harness plug up. Repeat for the other side.

Check ebay for new factory nissan harnesses for pretty cheap. Plugs into the rear plugs at the taillights, and the hard part is having to fish the plugs through existing grommets underneath.

Welcome.... Love your name, btw. haha.

Good answers already, but I wanted to add that although you don't have to get the springs replaced with the struts/shocks, you can do them together and save on labor since it doesn't cost any extra time. So the only extra you'll be paying is the price of the springs and no additional labor. OME springs from Rocky Road are probably the springs you want for the extra lift without the added problems of possible CV wear and struts topping out.

I've had no problem with #6 with the tools either. If anything, I had more problems getting the new plug in cuz I couldn't see the hole.

How low are you looking to go? I know my worn OEM springs that I just changed out were "lowering" my pathy by probably 1-2 inches similar to how the AC lower springs make the pathy look. They lowered my pathy enough so the tire-wheelwell gap was uniform all around - about 1 inch. But lowering the pathy isn't gonna look the same as lowering a car cuz you're still gonna be off the ground a lot.

haha, it could be worse... you could have scattered parts and a car being parted out on your lawn.... instantly drop their property values.

When I bought did my suspension, I ordered strut mounts as well since I figure the struts were out already. With 125k miles, the strut mounts were fine, and one strut was leaky.

Or you could just do a full roll cage and climb in just like the Dukes of Hazzard. That's be pretty cool.

I'm surprised about the OME stuff. I thought OME was made down under, and the US companies ship em here and charge us for the extra importing.

If you get a section to start peeling, you can also run dental floss under it.

Let the metal heat up a bit so the adhesive loosens up. Then use goo gone to remove the leftovers, and remember to wax/polish the area after. (I hated that sticker above the rear keyhole!)

My guess is the "disc" is the rotor since the rotor looks sort of circular. The rotor is the thingee right above the rectangular box in the bottom, middle of the picture. The cap is the thing that all the ignition wires is connected to. I guess the other reason why the whole distributor needs to be replaced is the shaft for the rotor may be damaged and causing the rotor to not spin properly? Regardless, I think you should try a new rotor and cap first before swapping the whole distributor.

I'm using a new cap and rotor from this site upon recommendation of someone: http://www.ignition-system.com/ They ship very fast, although I'm not sure how shipping to Mexico works.

:bow:

You say you need "new fenders". If you have old OEM fenders on your XE (eg not the EGR ones), then the OEM SE ones will bolt right up.

The superwhite bulbs should be the same as the regular bulbs in terms of part numbers. eg: 1156, 9004 etc.

The speed also changes the fuel economy drastically. I just came back SF --> LA --> SF, about 400 miles one way. I was caravaning with someone in a bimmer (big mistake), and he forced me to average about 80-85 mph, and I got about 250 miles a tank or 15 mpg, which is the same as when I do 50-50 mixed driving. ?During the summer, I drove like a grandma to work at about 65-70 mph, and I could easily get 280 miles a tank or 17 mpg.

I agree that the grill guard is pretty much pointless. If you want a more aggressive look, consider spending that money on lifting the pathfinder and slapping on some new rims. The black steelies give a really nice look.

I went out and did a check for ya. On my driver's side visor, my vanity mirror has a red/orange wire and a white wire coming out of the post. Red/orange = 12V; white = ground. If your wires aren't color coded, the wire closest to a notch (eg: triangle piece that locks the connector) is the 12V. Also, if you park outside, I suggest using the switched-ignition 12V wire for the driver's side with the homelinkn so people can't open your garage when the pathy's parked outside. The stock pathy is wired to an always hot 12V and I switched to the ignition 12V for that reason.