t0ast

yeah I was leaning towards a firestik based on the posts above, but I wanted to check if any of those were good so I can get it locally rather than ordering from online.

Anyone have any recommendations for CB antennas? I went to Fry's yesterday and saw lots: http://shop3.outpost.com/search?search_typ....x=0&submit.y=0 Mag mount Cobra Window mount Midland Lots by Vanco Which one should I chose? Also is there any losses from a window mount one?

Keep an eye out of these boards about people bitching about their BOSE dying, which seems to happen pretty often. I'm sure you can get the whole broken stereo for cheap. Also if you ever take apart the stereo, you can just get the front off without taking the whole thing apart. The front is basically a circuit board faceplate that has a removal connector that lets you separate it from the body of the stereo after you take apart the outer metal cage.

So was it just a replacement of the door siwtch?

If the light and horn are acting up, it's probably the keyless entry system rather than just the door buttons. Check the door buttons individually to make sure they're ok by just holding them down manually one at a time and seeing if you can get the dome light to jiggle on. Another thing you could do is unscrew the buttons from the body and disconnect the wires so you can test the buttons individually.

Check the distributor cap, rotor, and wires. I know when I did my worn plugs, my rotor was pretty bad on the leading edge. Fuel filter but that's a pain to change. But yeah, you can't really get around city driving. What I'm trying now is foot off the gas when I see a red light so I coast to a stop rather than braking. It takes a lot of patience to do it, and I can't always do it when there are cars behind me.

I've got a 98 auto as well. My best - 25% city, 75% highway in 90 degree heat - was 280 miles for about 16-17 gallons - so 16-17 mpg consistently for my job last summer. Now, I average around 250 miles so 14-16 mpg with 50-50 city-highway. However, I'm running A/T tires, got a hitch, and a 30lb sub box so I take hits in the fuel economy. So it also depends on what toys you lug around with ya as well as the tires and how heavy your foot is.

Don't have the side airbags, but I'm curious if they're separate units from the seats. It'd be a pain to have the whole seat replaced after they deploy. But then again, if you get hit hard enough from the side to have them deploy, then the car would probably be totaled.

How's the clearance on the mount with the hood closed? I didn't think I'd be able to fit anything through the crack without drilling a hole.

So does the sentra light switch fit perfectly into the blank location or did you have to cut up a blank to make it fit? That one looks really nice and stock.

Amazing. :bow:

very nice and clean. I always do a double take when I see newer R50s with different switches/buttons.

I guess this is more of a general suspension question, but what else should be replaced while I'm swapping out the springs and shocks/struts? I know manual hubs are recommended. I think I saw that AC recommends a camber kit to go with their lift.

I saw a friend do this, and it was pretty cool. Take a dollar bill, and fold it in half so its more rigid. Close the rear window onto the bill, and slide it along the seal. The leak is the location where you can easily pull the bill through the seal. Since the glass is big, try a full sheet of paper folded so its rigid but still thin.

Newp, the nissan alarm doesn't have the glass protection. Most OEM alarns don't have glass protection. The OEM alarm is more supposed to prevent having the whole car jacked. It doesn't really help against people smashing the glass and stealing valuables that are carelessly left inside or visible "bling". But even with aftermarket alarms you have to be careful. My friend had an aftermarket alarm with a hood sensor and window sensors. They saw golf clubs in his hatch so they pried open the hood first. Alarm went off for 5 seconds before they disconnected the battery. Then they broke the door/window to get in and jack his stereo and clubs. So even with aftermarket alarms, if they wanna get in, they will get in. Some people install a second hidden battery for the alarm, but by the time the thieves figure the alarm won't go off, your hood will be messed up already. The only real thing you can do is to avoid "bling" that makes it obvious you have stuff worth stealing.

Maybe cut a custom access panel for the filter that can be removed with a few bolts. Add an access hole for the drain?

A similar idea to the remote kill switch is to just pull a critical fuse from the fuse panel. Thieves won't have time to hunt for the missing fuse if they try to crank her and she doesn't start.

If you don't have a manual tranny, there's a plate that covers where the clutch is supposed to be in the firewall. Pop that out, drill a hole through the plate, and run the wire through.

well you've definitely accomplished that. good job! now show some play pics in the mud!

Yeah judge based on the miles. If you're planning on keeping the pathy for awhile, then go with the lowest miles one. If you're going stock, then the QX4 has a completely different look (bumpers, lights, fender flares, rims, interior, etc) and the SE has fender flares, different rims, sunroof, and other goodies to top the XE. If you're planning to do mods - rims, lift, stereo, etc - then the XE is fine to start with. If you wanna go offroad, check for a limited slip differential by looking for a "LSD" sticker on the rear axle in addition to the obvious 4x4.

The maxima and pathy have completely different power door/window operations. When my gf wasn't looking, I popped open her 99 base maxima window/door panel, and their panel has some sort of "data line" coming from the keyless entry. The plugs also don't match so you'd have to rewire the plugs as well. Plus they have the auto-"down" feature on their passenger window that my 98 pathy doesn't have, and I think you need the auto window feature to have the remote work in that way. If you want I can post the pages from the Maxima Service Manul for comparison.

There should be a little notch between the lense and plastic where you can get a screwdriver in.

The factory BOSE system is hard to match because the impedance of the system is 2-ohms. Aftermarket stuff runs on 4-ohms so mismatching the HU and the speakers will cause poor sound. I think you can replace the HU, amp, and speakers without rewiring. The stock BOSE has individual amps for the front speakers on the doors next to the speakers and a rear amp for the rear speakers. So I think you can put a HU in. For the rear speakers, replace the factory BOSE amp and a 2-channel amp to power the rears. For the front, splice another 2-channel amp somewhere in the front and then bypass the BOSE amps in the doors. It's kinda a pain since I don't think anyone makes adapters for amp conectors so you'd have to do splicing. I'm running the same setup as OR - taking the signal from the rear speakers, running em into a 2-channel amp, and then to a sub. It really fills out the low-end, but I still need to fiddle around with the settings to get the sound right.

I don't think the fogs should be right below the factory headlight beam. I think the fog beam is supposed to be the same height below the stock headlight beam so if you move your car forwards or backwards, the spacing between the headlight and foglight beams should be the same. But yeah if you want brighter, go with those bumper mounted lights like Dan said. The fogs are mounted low and are meant to project light outward rather than forward so they're not that great at lighting up the road.

Check the bag with the spare tire tools. There should be a special tool - actually its a long socket and an extension that's bent - that lets you get to the spark plug closest to the firewall. Even with the tool, you'll need to lay across the (hopefully) cool engine. Its also still a blind reach to stick the socket with the spark plug back into the hole so memorize where the plug is - maybe leave the plug wire close to the hole, and use lots and lots of light.