unccpathfinder

U like their software? We have a table here at work that I have to run from time to time BC right now I'm the only engineer that can scale and get to dxf since the techs don't have catia access and its software is pretty crude... I think I would want at least 2x4 just so I could cut 4x8 sheets down but I guess you could always rig up a guide for hand torching them Thanks for the info tho And u should def cut frame repair patches...I bet there r plenty of folks That would jump on That

So I'm guessing that's the 300 radiator and its downhill from there? Then u have the surge tank off the fill or off the high point? Do u have the 2'x2' or 2'x4' plasma? And pm mean what u would charge on top of material and shipping...also hit steevo up BC I'm sure there may be some things u could burn for some side $ if its worht ure time

Just noticed the radiator fill cap...that custom? Where's the surge tank?

Nice...how many times did u hit ure finger and break out into a cold sweat...a new Guy at work has a full shop at his house and builds truggies...I can't remember if he's the Guy I saw on the trail a year ago but hope to get to know him to help the SAS on its way on a budget...can't wait to see this on the road/trail wish I lived closer BC id def swing by with a cooler of cold beer!

Nice job on the finger! At least your stitches look a lot better than my pinky after they put only 4 in something that needed 10-12...but now I understand the whole adjustable blade guard on the bandsaw we had in the shop at uncc

yea...i did some math and it looks like I can ream out the pitman and idler arms which I would weld a T brace on the top of both to get them some more stiffness to resist the temptation to bed then take your idea of the DOM tubing and weld bungs on and just use the chevy TRE's and turnbuckles as they are...I can't remember but I may have to shorten the TRE's about 1/2" or so but it should work... Yea...she's been speaking blasphemy lately on wanting to get rid of her pathy for a jeep but hopefully after we get into a house we can SAS one or both and get some good wheeling in to show her she dont want no stinkin heep...girls and being able to take the top off and ride around...i told her she could do the same in the pathy but the only top she could drop is her tank top lol Loving the build...Once I get there I may hit you up...and how much would you want for a front bumper you built for that truck? I like the laser cut insignia...and do you have a shop that has good prices on metal work as far as laser or rough cuts?

Theres a new you pull it lot here in town that from what i've heard not a lot of folks know about...i'm hoping in the next month or so to get over there and get some parts...i'm gonna reinforce the new used pitman arm once i get one I researched doing the 1 ton conversion and its very plausable with the chevy 1 ton TRE's and links but I havent decided if its worth it yet or not depending on if/when i can SAS The truck's looking good...Krystal said she wants your pathy...

Oh yes it was...that's the plan...so I did bend my pitman arm and my lca bushings u can see thru...those were my main issues

so...can I fly out to moab and push your HB around while you break that in? Awesome build...you ever get that dash swapped out? my truck is still sitting and won't be touched for a long time...I hope to salvage a trip in october but hell october is almost here... Hope to get to check it out in the next few years if you still have it...Nice work as always!

Also reccomend a grease gun and the $6 bearing packer cones...still kinda messy but not as bad as hand packing

My bad...I shoulda taken pictures this past weekend I did bearings and rotors on the gfs truck...but I was walking my gf thru the process and forgot the camera...I cut up a 4 stud tool for the spindle lock nut and a $5 spring fish scale from Walmart Halfway point Tookavout 3hrs total with a parts store run and bsing with my buddy while drinking a 6'er but this is the 3rd or 4th time I've done this... One thing I also do is leave the caliper on both sides and slide the seat forward and put a prybar on the pedal jammed into the seat if no1 is around to hold the brake pedal and break the hub bolts loose prior to removing the calipers...then I remove the hub to keep as much dirt out as possible

they're basically...front and rear driveshafts...upper and lower BJ's (ball joints), both ends of the center link, all 4 TRE's (tie rod ends) and I think that's about the only ones I can think of I'd def do an oil change soon

there have been many folks that SAS'd and ran the stock shaft...Steevo ran it with like 6-8" of SL

Hardbody shifter works great

lol mine not good enough? nah jk...i was in a hurry to get it done and missed a good bit but i think i did a lot better than PA...when your done hook steevo up with a copy of it

i didnt cut or flip any brkts just htat stud-plate and moved it up to the holes there maybe they were different from the factory but i dont think so

just a thought...many folks rnt running a front locker and are still open so you're possibly seeing additional loads that others dont that sucks...glad i didnt do that...although i have cv's in my spare box

not a damn thing...thought about how pissed i am at the IFS and how all the crawlers are going to IFS and what i need ot design to make it not suck truck nutz (see south carolina news and truck nutz)

Yea...I had spares but I didn't have bolts lol...the casting on the "new" bubs seemed to be a lot @!*%tier than the old hubs I refit with the 29 spline parts

If someone is running a hockey Puck lift they need to replace it with some other reliable material designed to take compression loads

Check the post in the 90-95 thread about a bl install he posted the PDF that I wrote up for steevo at rugged rocks...That may be a big help

If u find bushwhackers make sure the rears r for wd21 and not d21 or u will be disappointed the fronts r interchangeable between d21 and wd21