RedPath88

I personally would not add trans fluid for the long term. Short term cleaning (maybe 500 miles tops), but not a full oil change cycle. Trans fluid is rich in detergence but it is also thinner than motor oil. I did 250-300 miles with a half quart in my Toyota once and it made enough of a difference to be noticed (cleaner) when I pulled the valve cover to inspect, the same time I changed the oil and filter going with straight motor oil. If you want to go thinner, then use a thinner oil, that way you know and can control the exact weight of the oil.

If they are JGC springs then remember to just cut the pigtail off to begin with, then work your way down in small increments (if it's to high after just the pigtail) and try to keep them cool while cutting.

To my standards? Come on don't be like that. But just so everyone knows, all duplicate threads and posts have to be manually removed. And we do that to try and keep a clean and easy to navigate community for all NPORA Members A simple refresh will show if a post was made or not and I don't believe that that is asking to much.

Ok so letss try this again.... Let me guess, your using Tapatalk right? Since this is not the first time we have removed duplicate topics that you have made, will please start ignoring the "error" messages that the app gives when your trying to post and instead of reposting the same or similar content, try refreshing the listing view first. The posts and topics do get submitted, even when tapatalk returns and "error"

I hear there's a community that, when asked, can recommend buying just the arms because the kits are for leaf sprung HB's So how much was the kit? A few people have bought just the arms recently and SteeevO, an NPORA approved vendor, posted not long ago about them being in stock and available from him as well (see the Classifieds>NPORA Vendors Section)

Forum was offline for 30min for a minor software update.

A good starting point and some basic info can be found in the Pinned topic "Pathfinder Common Problems/Fixes, Read this first!" located in the "New People Start Here!" section Oh and the lifters are hydraulic and self adjusting. Not to say that they cannot be a problem (I have replaced mine) because they can drain and cause ticking, they just cannot be adjusted. That said, AndyC is likely on the right track.

Ok then I am going to move this thread into the 86.5-89 section, just wanted to make sure beforehand *A link to it's new location will remain in the 90-95 section for about 30 days.

Jim the 2dr you are building, that is an '88 and not a '90, correct?

During a timing belt change is best time to do it, there is no doubt about that. When you do change it try not to let any fluid run down the engine, because it will find the timing belt and coolant is not good for belts. It might actually be cheaper to take the removed hose to the parts store and have them match it up to another. When I did mine the first time I took it in and the found a short u shaped belt that when cut in half was a perfect match, plus it provided two of them. I set the second half in the garage and used it on my next belt change

That is different that the way you said it before, this is not permission to work on a vehicle, it is access to software updates. I get software updates I took my Lincoln in to have the AdvanceTrac module re-flashed and had no problem doing so. But since my car still drove fine without it, it was completely voluntary. If they would standardize on a platform this would not be as big of an issue, but why would they do that when they can keep it all proprietary and force the use of their costly services. And possibly even make it illegal to do otherwise.

1: Check belt tensions, may be that they need replaced. Never used it myself but a can of belt dressing may also help reduce squeal... but checking tension comes first. Also make sure that the idler pulley (if there is one) is moving freely. 2: Does it stop when pressing the brakes? If so it may be that one or more are dragging I had a rear drum drag once, it gets VERY hot when driving and is something to identify and correct if it is. b: Does it do it when you are not in motion but the engine is running? Check the fan shroud and see if it is rubbing. Check all moving parts... don't get your sleeve caught in anything! 3: Lifter tick? If it was a VG I would say the hydraulic lifters are draining, but it's not. Someone will correct me if I am wrong but I would *guess* that the Z's are not hydraulic and "may" need adjusted. *purely and uneducated guess there* 4: Are you sure your not still in 4HI? (See #6 for more info) If it is in two wheel drive then the switch could be sticking, it should be in the transfercase. 5: When you need/may need 4wd, otherwise leave them unlocked. Leaving them locked when 4WD is not in use just increases ware on the front drive components. Hubs (Manual or Auto locking) connect and disconnect the wheel from the axle. Unlocked they spin freely like a 2WD front end, locked they are physically connected to the CV shafts/axles and thus the front diff, Front driveline and transfercase. 6: Push down Actually this is a common question and problem for people new to Nissan. Please See this thread Guys don't kill me, a 4x4 turning on question, HELP I can't go 4hi, only down

amazing how opinions can vary... I have the V8 coils and I don't really find them to be to stiff at all. But it seems like the V6 coils, back when all of this was being figured out, were found to not support the tail end of a WD21 and still provide lift. Oh and the Ford springs were always considered to be the "stiff" option.

Are you referring to one of the two lines in the top image? These run to the firewall heater inlets, correct? Do you want your heater? Can you even by pass them, or are they damaged at the manifold connections?

"and bend something" Actually no surprise at all, people have reported that lots of shops have a hard time getting a lifted WD's alignment right. It's one of the reasons a lot of people do driveway alignments themselves. Firestone has been good for me, and I bought the Forever Alignment years ago

Drove it to the store and coffee shop.

Isn't that what this is about, them trying to say that you don't have the right... or "permission" to work on it. Shop or not. It may start with the consumer, but don't doubt that once they get a little, they will take more.

Yeah it's a 4cyl from '89, should not be all that complicated.

Always a good place to start when asking about fluids for our vehicles Pinned in The Garage WD21, D21, and R50 Lube Specifications

That did it

PDF works but the ZIP is still returning the same MD5 I listed above. Even downloaded it on my phone and the MD5 is identical.

That awesome, I have often thought about taking my 89 FSM apart so I could scan it, but it is in such good shape that I could never bring myself to actually do it But, I have tried a couple of times and I cannot get a good copy from your server. Extracting errors due to corrupt files. If you have the ability to check the MD5, the one from my download file is 1D79FC86D28FE84E0DCCE377338DDEAF

Z24 is the part of the inline 4 cylinder "Z" line of engines that Nissan produced and the 24 refers to this version being a 2.4L engine, just as the 30 in VG30 means 3.0L (VG's are V 6 cylinder engines.) You likely have one of the last ones produced, or at least installed in a Pathfinder, as I believe they changed to the KA24 (also an inline 4) in 1990. Oh and you likely have the Z24i. The "i" designates it as Throttle Body Injection. It may say "Electro Injection" on the air cleaner cover, like the VG30i's do. There are a couple members around with the Z24, but I am not sure how active they are. But there are also a few who had those engines in older Nissan/Datsun 720 trucks. Perhaps they were more common in your area, but over here in North America they are not. I think one of the main reasons is the weight of the WD21's. Not saying that the VG's are power houses (we all not that is not true!) but they do have a little more and WD's need all they can get. It could also be that it was the cool thing to have in a mini truck the mid to late 80's "I have the V6!" Didn't matter if they were better or not, Toyota's 22R inline 4 was (in my opinion) better than their first V6, but people still liked the idea of having it

I would copy a diagram from my 89 FSM, but I have still not found it after moving But that pump you have the image of above is for a VG30 and not the one you need. Looking at US parts house web sites, the one on ebay looks more like it. but what is odd is that the images I saw on product pages showed the pulley and fan clutch attached so it blocks the view of the front. Yes, your engine should have a timing chain so unless there are known problems with them (like bad guides) and depending on the kilometers on your engine, you will probably be ok... but no promises There are a couple Z24 guys on here, so hopefully they will see this soon. We also have a Z24 section, it's not real active because there were just not as many of them. But maybe you can change that You can find it as a Sub-Forum of the Garage, once in there rest the filter to Custom . Show All (look for "Custom" in the blue bar at the top of the topic listings. This will show everything in there and works throughout NPORA Forums. Welcome to NPORA Taylor!

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