SC88Pathy

Honestly I prefer using the automatic off road. But it's looking more and more like that's the best option

Yes but the quotes that I have gotten so far to fix or rebuild the transmission are averaging $2000 Nobody in Santa Cruz will even work on them

True but it couldn't hurt, and it's cheap enough that trying it first won't be that big of a deal financially. And if I do need a new transmission I'd need a cooler to go along with it anyways.

OK planning on getting everything I need to do the fluid change tomorrow. Enjoi and I are going to hit up Pick'n'Pull to find an Explorer Transmission cooler. What else am I going to need to install it? I was just planning on buying a big bucket of B&M Trick Shift, should be enough ATF fluid right?

Also is there a way to diagnose if the solenoids are working properly? EDIT Found the diagnostic procedure post, but it's for 90-95 Pathfinders. How much different is the process for the 88-89 models?

Well miracle of miracles, my dad and I were just taking a look at it, but after figuring out how much time it was going to take to take to drop the pan he decided he didn't really want to help me anymore. Anyways as I was driving the car back up to the house (we were working on it in our barn) I got it to shift into second. As the transmission started to warm up though it didn't want to stay in second under power. Sooo I'm going to try changing the fluid and installing an external cooler.

You haven't been paying attention for the past year or so have you? I suggest you go back and read the PoHo to catch up. Besides she relies on me for transportation. Back on topic, has anyone ever used this site: http://www.everdrive.com/partdetails.aspx?sku=3346787 Good or bad deal? It has a 3 year warranty at least...

Fourth in this transmission is actually fourth, not Overdrive, OD was not introduced to the V6 Auto until 1990. Does that effect how the transmission works internally? Also if I found a donor from a 90-95 Pathfinder would it work with my ECU set up (4 speed non OD Transmission controller and TBI ECU)?

What happens shifting wise: Stays in first up to about 25-35mph (3000-5500RPM) then I have to let off the gas, it hesitates attempts to shift to second (RPM's drop to about 2500ish) then finally goes into third (RPM's around 1500). Then once I get up to around 50, if I let off the gas RPM's will drop down to 1000. As soon as I get back on the gas though it jumps back to third and RPM's increase accordingly.

Can someone, anyone help me out? I lost second and fourth. The auto will not shift into second and it will not stay in fourth. I am PRAYING that this is a stuck solenoid, and a transmission fluid change will help it. The Pathfinder is my daily driver and my only way of getting around, and as some of you know I don't have a stable source of income to afford to fix this, nor any savings. I don't really know how to change the transmission fluid (besides dropping the pan, and I already know that I will have to drop my exhaust and probably a crossmember too, not fun and not something I think I'm entirely equipped to do). I'v been told I can disconnect the fluid lines at the cooler and then pump the fluid out, and then pump new fluid in, but supposedly it's a two man operation and I don't really have anyone around here who could help me (the only friend I have who's mechanically inclined I wouldn't let 50 feet around the Pathy with a set of tools). Can anyone help me out and show me how to do this? Please? Further info: Checked the fluid again today in proper lighting this time. Fluid is still pinkish not as pink as fresh fluid though. Not gray or black though. Doesn't smell burnt. There is no apparent shavings or crap in the fluid on the dipstick, of course that doesn't mean that there isn't anything at the bottom of the pan. One bad thing is that the factory clearly overfilled the transmission, fluid level goes about an inch up past the top hot line.

Nope. OK maybe if you install Linux on your PS3 and then use Wine to play it, but at that point you'd just be better off hooking up your PC to your TV. I'v got an early 60gig model. Hardware PS2 emulation

What he said. Air down, go slower, maybe new shocks, but mostly just get used to it. If you want a smooth ride get a Cadillac!

I was actually referring to the thread starter But according to your sig you also have a 3" suspension lift too, correct? With both the 3" susp and 3" body lift you shouldn't have to trim much, if at all, to fit 33's.

Why not just run 32's then? With 33's you're going to see horrible gas mileage, and a severe lack of power. You won't have to trim as much, if at all with just a 3" body lift too.

Easy way to figure this out: Set up a ramp, drive up it to start flexing the suspension. Once the tire contacts the fender, mark how much you think you should trim. Continue doing this until you can flex out with no contact, and then trim a little bit more for fudge factor.

I'v been looking since I signed up to the boards, the only one's I have come across were way overpriced.

Used to be but now with the proper internals a D44 could handle 38's. Of course the question is would it be cheaper to just use a D60 instead of purchasing and installing the stronger internals?

Well what I am doing right now is leaving the plastic steering column covers off, and holding the end cap down when it refuses to start I'll try tapping it with a screwdriver, although I think replacing the switch is the best idea. Especially since it's only like $30 from rock auto.

OK upon further inspection it does feel like I can push the cap in and then something pushes it back out slightly.

Ok pulled the covers apart and looked at the ignition switch The plastic end cap does wiggle a little bit, it's not tight. Is this the issue? Also the plastic bit is brown not black... That being said I got the car to start 5 times in a row no matter how I wiggled it while starting...

Thanks for the link jgt. So that's part of the ignition, near the steering shaft, and I'v just got to remove the plastic around the steering shaft to get a look at it right? OK this morning the Pathy started three times no problem. When I tried to start it tonight though it started ran for half a second and died then wouldn't start running again for a while. Same deal as last night, heavy smell of unburned fuel from the exhaust, pumped the throttle, and eventually it started to run. And even then it really didn't want to, not firing on all cylinders until I shut it down and started it again.

Also SE-V6 - Auto - LSD - 4.6 Gears

Hmm this could be it, because I did smell strong gas fumes when I was turning the engine over

Checked the cap, the plugs, and wires. All were on tight, so unless somethings wrong internally I don't think that's the cause. Battery is brand spanking new, an Optima Red Top (which I'm really glad I decided to buy because it had no problem turning the engine over while I was trying to get the engine running) I didn't notice anything unplugged last night, I'll check again today though

Actually I didn't see that post Could you link me to it?