GrimGreg

See what I can do. Here is the one I bought: http://www.jegs.com/p/B-M/B-M-Transmission...748099/10002/-1

I don't have pics of mine, but I just put a brass T fitting into the line going into the cooler from the tranny. Had to braze a wire to the fitting to ground the sensor out though.

I know they are no longer made, but am pretty sure they were good parts.

Could be, when the fan first kicks on, the rpms dip and then after a moment it revs back up.

Me too.

I pulled the rears in my 88 and made a deck out of OSB to cover theit space. The OSB sits on a 2x4 sitting on edge and bolted to the metal brace that ran under the front of the back seats. Made the surface flat with the cargo area, and a little storage cubby under it.

Yep, loosen the nut back and make sure the shoes are adjusted right, then reset the nut where it should be.

He said he already has it maxed out.

Well, they don't sell shrink kits..... (sorry had to). Yeah, there is adjustment on the shoe end, but they should self adjust themselves to the proper clearance.

Visually you will not know if it is new or at 60k. When I pulled my 88's it looked new, but I knew it had at least 70k on it (PO had put about that much on the truck and never changed it). New T-belt was the first thing both of my Pathfinders got when I bought them (dealer even paid for it on my 93 ). I lived through a VG30 with a broken T-belt once, never want to go there again.

Are the shoes worn out? Another possibility is that the cables going to the wheels have stretched.

The idle will pickup once the load hits the Alt. My 93 will kick-up about 100rpm when the e-fan kicks on.

So are you saying they are low-pro headers that they sell?

Those wheels would be better served on a Maxima.

My thought process on it: Remove the latch from the hatch bottom, and the struts from the hatch part. Close the hatch and install hinges to the bottom. Open the glass and tack weld the upper part of the hatch in place onto the body. Cut the lower part of the hatch just above where the window seal turns up on either side. At this point the lower gate should be able to swing down on the hinges, and the upper part be rigid with the body. The glass should also still be able to latch on the lower tail gate. From there just finish up the welds, and make some sort of latch to keep the lower half from floping open.

Yeah, just get a high-flow cat and be done.

A couple cuts, a couple welds, a couple hinges, and a couple latches then you'd be set.

Make sure the pipe isn't too long. Someone used a pipe that was a bit too long once and ended up putting it into the windshield.

You ca either get the one AC sells (PA kit + updated bolts), or buy a kit for an older Pathy and source your own rear bolts. Everything else is in the kit. Though some people prefer to replace things like the gas filler neck and power steering hoses with new longer ones, rather than splice in the tubes in the kits.

That is kind of my plan for my 88. Cut out the outer side and weld in rectangular tube along the length.

Has to be from an 89 or older IIRC, the connectors and wiring was changed slightly after that.

You "can" put the adjuster crossmember in the stock location and angle the T-bars....the original TM kits were made to work like that. I would think they changed it due to added strain on the bars. It would probably also do a number on your caster. Another option, is to do away with the T-bars and make a custom coil-over setup.

UCAs don't give any lift.

I got one as a raffle prize once, they work great.

You need to get one of these: https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...roducts_id=1990 They make it supper easy to rinse out the frame!