GrimGreg

Yeah, I called shops here and got an average of $800 for the job....that was in 2001. Half the places wouldn't even touch a V engine with a belt .

No issues with a BL on a auto, actually easier than a manual. As for your humorous rust advise, it works for surfase rust, but if you don't put something on before painting, it will come right back. Also, when our frames go, it isn't surface rust and it is usually from the inside out. You are lucky to have an older model, they had better steel in the frames than newer ones. My 88 still has a solid original frame even after years of it being in Cleveland (tons of salt on the road in winter), my 93 is swiss cheese that has been patched in multiple places, but it was here in Columbus (stil salted, but a lot less). Most people who have rust issues are far beyond any wire wheel help. BTW, what part of Nor Cal? I spent a few years in the Eureka area.

All this for North America, not to up on the rest of the world markets: The major things I would do is to utilize the UD division in making a HD Titan. Eliminate the Altima and Altima coupe and make a Maxima coupe, and a sedan based on the Versa platform. Going back to your article, I would follow Jeep's lead in the Rubicon, and build "real" offroad versions of the Xterra and Frontier utilizing H260 axles (F&R) with factory lockers and steel bumpers,etc. I would also bring back the Datsun name and migrate the Cube to it, then make 2 other Versa based models like a 2 door hatchback and dumbed down version of the sedan I mentioned above to go against Scions. In addition I would bring back a "mini" truck and SUV on the Datsun label.

Same construction, cheaper materials.

I've know people who ran 33x12.5 just fine on the stock chrome wheels.

It is getting harder to find 15s, but they are still around. Until they stop making them completely, I'm sticking 15. Remember a 31" on a 15 is the same size outside as a 31" on a 16, just 1" less sidewall and 1" more wheel.

Hardbody hood

Rear looks saggy...or front is over cranked. Did you upgrade the steering also?

Looking at the picture, they look like the OE hubs, inside and out.

Or just go with the 4bt engine and matching tranny and bolt a Dana 300 to it. You can clock a 300, and even do a complete flip on it (a bit more work), but you can get adapters for the 300 to fit almost anything domestic.

I think you could order one from the states and still pay half that.

Just leave it alone and switch to an electric fan .

Yep, 3 wires, no black.

Well, keeping the original e-mail that states the intended use would be key. If used other than for stated intended purposes could make them liable.

I was trying to find the commercial where they invited a bunch of people out to the desert, they picked people off AC's forum for that one.

Also looks like it is almost 2" to far forward.

When I originally did my t-belt on my 93, I didn't do the pump. 5k later it started weeping, so I redid the t-belt again when I replaced the waterpump. Took 5hrs the first time, only took 3hrs the second time with the pump .

One of the best vids of my truck is this one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPpoeO02i1g The guy who took it probably got an e-mail, but hasn't seen it because I don't think he's been near his comp in months. They HAVE to get the flying Mr.Jim for the commercial!!!!!

Nope, of course I don't have any specific Pathy vids on my upload list.

About 99% of those of us with a lift have.

No Multiple modifications need made, minor, but beyond plug and play.

93-95 have larger rear bolts, only change.

Depending on the ones you get, 1.5-3 inches. Yes the SAWs will be fine to match, just mind the upper bump stop space.

Fixed that for his location.

Actually, I think velcro on the inside would be better than screws, less damage when it does get yanked off by a tree!