GrimGreg

Trim the fender where it hits, or get new wheels with a better offset.

I have the stock autos so far on my 93. If you can find them (dealer or luck) the factory Nissan manual hubs are the strongest made. I have a set on my 88 (27 spline easy to find) very nice.

Only way would be to completely disconnect, as in unbolt, the drivelines at the front and at the rear differentials.

Me too, then trace the loom back to see if there are any points where the wires are chafed and touching the frame. I had a spot wear through by the driver's rear frame where the wires snaked by there.

Why I skipped the gaskets and just used copper RTV only on my headers. I am even missing a bolt on one (snapped the Snap-On "EZ Out" off in it) and I don't have a leak.

Might be caused by the seatbelt also.

I think steel might work better than steel-head.....

Not speciffically, but yes he did mention putting a hook back.

Well, though most don't like them, it has the top armrest area with cup holders. In addition to that it has switch spaces beside the e-brake handle, otherwise not much difference functionally. It looks a little sleaker and covers more of the auto shifter. I did take a comparrison pic when I had them both out of the truck, but it is still on my phone...lazy me. As for grossness, not to bad, I stripped out the entire interior right after I bought the truck so it hadn't collected to much nastyness.

So, where are you mounting the bracket on the Pathy? You might look into bolting them into the factory tow hook mounts under the front of the frame.

Might have a stuck caliper on the right and it isn't contacting as solidly as the left side.

Yeah, they like to split around the TB on the bottom. Had my stock one do that and had it band aided for almost a year with duck tape.

A new coil fixed my problems.

Tow bar? What do you mean, like to pull it behind another vehicle?

Cap/rotor...coil...wires...

No, there isn't. Not on the inside of the frame rail. Only other things there are gas and brake lines. It's about 3"x3"x2". If you look from the drivers side across you'll see it if it is there.

I just put the same center console in my 88 . That is the 94/95 style one.

Sounds like the story with mine. Got it on clearance 2 years ago at Target, never saw em again.

Not so, the original synthetics DID leak out seals even in a maintained engine. Of course that was 20 some odd years ago, and they have changed the formulas to avoid that trouble now. As far as using them in place of dino; if your engine doesn't leak or burn oil, go for it. If you have to add oil every other visit to the gas station, you are probably just fine $$$ and addative wise to keep topping off the dino with dino.

That is all that matters.

Probably doable, unless you are a tin foil wearing freak like Ghost and think the feds will come after you.

The magnet idea, though ingenius, might not work (never looked at the inside of one of our pans) the pickup and baffle might be in the way. As for a replacement, I would think the Junk Yard would be a good place to look for one.

If you do have it, the valve for it will be midway back on the inside of the passenger framerail.

Yeah, AC sells that MAF adaptor. A few people have used ones made for an Altima, can find them cheap on E-Bay, you just need to drill for 2 of the mount holes that are different on our's. I used a generic adapter made by Spectre Performance (was like $10) that I had to drill 2 new holes and seal up 2 of the holes it originally had in order to mount it.

Nice man, what did you use for the Hi-Lift mount? I have the same basket but need to make a new rack for it, the factory rack bars slide all over. I used the farring mounts as light mounts, but I only have a pair of lights.