02silverpathy

Hey guys found an LSD Nissan rear at the boneyard today..asthetically in mint condition...still had old Pathfinder Chromies on it and the LSD OIL ONLY stick is bright and clean...I rolled it over to find more info on it...all I could find was 5W509B...any way to know what gears are inside?? I also found a front and rear set of HG46's on a 94 path, but she had 198xxx miles on it and I figure that the gears weren't worth the $500 the JY wants....fill me in on your thoughts! Please!

Any progress with the Japanese web site? There are all sorts of goodies on there!

PS those suburb rims look sweet!!

What I meant by living in America is that I feel sometimes the things we do to, or provide influence, to other countries will land all of us a battle with cancer, other than that I am really not sure if we really know what gets those cancer gnomes in our blood to kick on and start raising havoc. With the truck, I have a VQ35de...if you were looking at my stats, that was for the 98 that I once owned. The VQ35 in any vehicle (Max, Altima, Path, 350z) can and will benefit from higher octane...due to high compression and computer controlled variable timing DOHC. "See" vs "Hear" same ideas here...the ecu can figure/judge/understand/compute/calculate detonation as well as read its O2 sensors (all 4) and gauge what is going on inside the cylinder banks. With regard to the coil packs...the consistence of firing voltage is much more pronounced with this design over a standard dizzy...adding a plug that requires less voltage to fire makes this an even better proposition for good flame kernal. Unfortunately unless there is better MPG I cannot say that swappingmy OEM Laser plats. out for the Iridiums today made any difference at all except hosed me for some time and cash! I can say that I cleaned out my PCV and added an oil catch filter to the system today...curious to see if that was worth the hassel. When I loc-tited the power valve screws I cleaned the intake manifold, and good Lord it was coated (44K) so I can only assume that over the next 44K that I may be cleaner? Or perhaps the other owner used crappy fuel.... The worst part by far to talk about is the crazy guidelines that allow gas pumps to say "___"octane when there is quite a large variable % they are allowed to operate in. I use the Shell V-Power...a couple more cents a gallon but if it truly has extra (they say 5 times) detergent in the gas then I will continue to use it...I am positive I get better mileage with it and maybe it is placebo that the truck runs better...it is not placebo however that the truck ran like a beaten animal when it had the extra toluene in the tank!! If I had access to a dyno without it costing $100 a run I would be more than anxious to see results

Dude! Lets see if we can sort this out... ------------->Hubs on truck from factory are "locked" hubs...they spin the front axles all the time 4wd on off whatever. When you pu;ll the lever now they are live and putting power to the ground ------------>Warn Hub (milemarker etc) installed and with the dial on the hub in 2wd mode = no front attachment to the wheels, the hubs are "unlocked" this means that the wheels turn but not the axles, saving wear on the fron cv's....pull the lever and the axles will try to lock up but cannot...grrrrind grrrind ------------>Warn hubs installed and spun to 4wd on the dial = locked hubs just like factory, now you can pu;l that lever when you need to and no problems + the hubs by warn are stronger than the ones from the factory...and easily maintainenced. Bottom line!-------------->I tend to leave my hubs locked when I know cruddy weather is coming, so I do not have to get out of the truck to spin the dial and lock the hubs. All Summer long, leave them unlocked and not wearing my cv's. The extra 1-2 MPG is always appreciated also! Just lean to drive better in bad conditions and the hubs will save $$$ on CV axles that should not get turned until you need them to put down power and save gas when they are not forced to spin. --------Helpful?

The VQ engine has the ability to advance/retard its own timing and change its level of output based on the octane that it "sees". Does your racecar has a carb or an ECU has this makes all the difference in the world, though you should still use higher quality fuel, it surprises me since most people with race cars would run CAM II all day long if they could afford it. I figuer that my coil pack set up probably doesn't care about the detonation and the Iridiums in the garage that are going in this afternoon take a large % less effort to spark this sounds like a winning combinatation...in worked in my 1998 BMW that had coil packs and asked for min RON 89. That car definately backed off with 89 vs. 93. Why on earth would Corvette owners want to boost their octane in a $60,000 vette...that is if they did not already add Lingenfelter heads and a load based wet nitrous system.... Check this out!! -->Def. not cheap, but it was fun! ---->Cancer! I live in America, I am getting it anyway call it bad Juju or whatever! Lol, JK USA is ok most of the time!

Backyard chemist here....I added 1 gallon of this to approx 17 gal of 93 oct V-Power...this should yeild 94.16 octane.....loads of fun go VQ go!! This equation is here...backyard octane booster I stayed under my 5% mixture so I felt safe, definately a smoother idle and much more push. The gallon of Toluene was $15 and I had to explain myself buying it since it is used to make certain street drugs/narcotics. Who knows if you really get the octane you pay for? Here is a sweet way to get some for sure!! I can only imagine if I still had the smaller tires and no lift, oh and minus the 3 12"s and box in the hatch!!

Did you already lift it, or are you just using the front spacers? I have the AC lift on the 02, and with .75" spacers I just found out here in the snow this week just how bad I am binding up my CV's. I got lots of clunking during acceleration.

Hmm, all in Japanese but here is a sight worth going through....Ichiban!

What is really bad here is that even offering a recall to "tighten" the screws would be admitting a mechanical failure...thus initiating paying for new engines to those that have gone through this. It sounds crappy cause it is, this is just how corporate worlds exist. They step over people to get what they need...the good side is that they will most likely never have that problem again. Japanese engineers are very good about fixing mistakes and thinking steps out and around the topic to predict what could be next. I would like to see Nissan replace all the damaged VQ35de's with VQ35HR's to make up for the issue!! Lol, I already tightened mine, ah well, that HR seems really sweet! Trainman...where did you read of a manifold problem for VQ's?

csutke....I'm with you man! I get 13 city...hwy is always like 20-21, TB coolant lines heating up the TB or not. It doesn't seem to matter if I drive fast or slow, city is 13!!!

Haven't found it yet, however the AU rep told me that USA reps should be able to get me this item....now I will wait for a response from this guy (these guys)+ ....it is a TJM piece...you were right Dan!!

Sweet bully bar! This is the best bull bar I have seen short of buying and Arb!! Anybody seen this one around??

You may get brand new rubbing going on under your rig...I went from my Nismos back to stockers with 265/75/16's and got more rubbing due to new tire placement (BS is totally different on the 2)...the Nismos are going to be sold by the way as I didn't like the color on my truck and well...I am currently married living single (not by my choice).

Orange, those are the ones that I would be getting...before I even had my path I liked that those still have that little bit of orange in the reflector. There are a couple of paths on cardomain that have those....would look great on your truck, but only ok on my chrome silver

When I had the 3.3 pathy the NGK Iridiums were AWESOME!!! Does anyone with a 3.5 have those in yet?? I read something about coil packs doing much better with 2 electrodes (+2) than just one.

Truck looks great mang! The house in the background...now I am really jealous!!!

Is it time to talk about Toulene? Mixed in at about 7-10% solution?? Yea yea crazy me...I proved that at 1-1.25 ounce per 10 gallons of fuel that the path added nearly 2mpgs, thats all well and good. I have been reading more about Toulene. This is a fuel that by itself yields a 120 octane (RON method). It can be safely mixed at about 1 gallon per 20 in most all high compression engines (so I have read) this makes your 92 octane about 93.6...some Corvette owners like to use much larger quantities to achieve 103-104 octane...but that is a little too risky for me and I love my 3.5 so no thanks!! Obviously rasing octane is good for many high compression engines...but also makes higher temps throughout...thus moving up the scale by 10-15 points from 92 or 93 to 93-94 would be sufficient....especially during "Winter Gas"months! This week I re-attached my throttle body coolant lines and noticed an improvement in MPG already...please keep in mind I fall into the extreme driving conditions category...I live less than 3 miles from my job and only average 210 miles in 10 days and thus only about the same per tank!!

I have heard the same information! It was reccommended to me that you use 1 qt in you oil change and run the engine normal until the oil looks dirty....probably would happen in about 1000 miles. This is a little slower more controled way but same priciples....high detergent removes oil clots!

Yoooo out there in Pathy land, word to the wise! DO NOT (probably will get flamed) use KYB strut bearings! Mine were brand new on the truck for under 3 weeks and they have caused me to do massive amounts of extra work! My rig had 47K on it when I put the lift on and 295 miles later one was busted (20-30% chip off of edge) and the other is choppy in its function. I also noticed that it was a slightly tighter fit than the OE part. Incidentally, the 96-99 and 00-04 had all the same part numbers so this should have not fit so tightly-----Today in record time (for me), 5 hrs. I uninstalled the entire front strut assemblies and re-installed the original strut bearings, out come? Fine for now!! No creaks no groans and no choppy steering. Lesson learned for me, some parts MUST be OEM to function 100% --------------------->now on to the flame!!

Had them on my 98 and now have them on my 02....I think I like them...they make wheels and tires work, they bolt up firm. I DO reccomment checking them after a while just like new rims! Make sure that you get the thread you want when you order them. I mistakingly bought a set with a Toyota bolt pitch. These are still 6x5.5 but they have a different lug nut. Some say that they can put extra stress on wheel bearings/ball joints etc due to new geometry, I can't imagine it really being different than really negative offset rims though??

Ha! Lol, no, I guess I was busy being upset. My personal life has taken a sharp curve so too many small things frustrate me at this point!! I have a NPORA member interested in them if he is no longer interested I may have to try this!

Hey all, as some of you guys already know I found out the hard way that my OME shocks from my 98 path do not fit my 02 path...so I am looking to invest in a new set of rear shocks. I would like an adjustable ride. Easy when on road and tougher when off road or carrying cargo. Please give me inputs here. I know that XPLORx4 had air helpers and then got rid of them but I do not know why, anyhow--put your info in here! I was also told that the Rancho 9000 were very rigid shocks.

Hi there Rich! I think that this effected all 01-04 pathy's with the 3.5

A leak that early in the exhaust could be a loss of backpressure and cost you some TQ....the TPS would only mess up how the vehcile accelerates. Pull the battery cable off for a couple hours to reset and drive normal to get it back into swing...see if that helps. Another source of lost power could easily be the MAF sensor...take it off and GENTLY clean it with a teflon approved cleaner and a Q-tip (did I mention-GENTLY?).