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I know a lot of people like to delete stuff like those lines but the truck just runs better when you don't try to engineer it yourself lol.

so little update. Got my SFD ordered back in like november and it showed up in december BUTTTTT the lovely people at UPS messed up the box quantity with item quantity and the tariffs/duties skyrocketed to 2400 bucks per box. which means 4800 for 2 boxes with 500bucks worth of parts in them lol so its been re routed back to the shipper in canada and is currently "lost" per ups but they found it in montana. It has been an absolute shyt fest and waiting. So in the meantime i put on some 2in AC coils from 4x4parts and debating on if i want to rip the trans out of it to do the clutch now and replace the input shaft bearing since it is howling and making all kinds of racket. Heres a pic of the truck last night after i did the coils

Quite weird!! Thanks! You're THE best!!! Next time, I'll try to grow taller

That's a weird one. Wonder if someone popped a fuse somewhere else and "borrowed" it? Glad to hear it was a cheap/easy fix!

Thank you so much for taking the time to not only research, but explain it in a way that isn't complicated! I'll report back once I am able to put your words into action. I just wanted you to know your kindness is greatly appreciated.

After having done this 3 or 4 times on Xterra and WD21 I'd agree pulling the diff is much easier than wrestling the transmission back far enough, because I also had to pry the torsion bar xmember down or just remove them.

The diff sure ain't light! But neither is the gearbox.

I haven't measured mine, but this guy says 22". Which engines are you looking at?

After 9 years of ownership it’s still my daily and I’m still in love! 274K purrs like a kitten.

Agreed, the 2nd part appears to be some sort of NVH damper. It's not a transmission mount, that's for sure. If you buy from Amazon, you can search for the 1st p/n and it'll return a bunch generic options. Ebay, too. Anchor 9011 for $19: https://www.ebay.com/itm/297995046269. If you have a clunk when you change gears, the problem is more likely to be your motor mounts, specifically the driver's side. If your transmission mount has sheared or shows signs of shearing, I'd be certain at least one of your motor mounts has already given up the ghost. I changed mine out a few years ago on a whim, and the 2 pieces came out in 4.

Sorry for delay guys. I ended up just replacing all the rubber and keeping it intact. I do plan on removing the EGR and all that nonsense when I put these headers on and redo the entire exhaust...(SAS requires it!) Just not there yet.

He has been an NPORA member for nearly 20 years and a regular the whole time. Recently he worked with us in the background to get the forum back online, root out problematic DDoS sources and test for reliability. And now adamzan has agreed to join the Mod Team. Welcome adamzan!

I've heard of the dampers causing bleeding issues. I don't think I've heard of one doing what yours is doing, but it does sound plausible. If nothing else jumps out at you, look for an M10x1 invert flare (not bubble) union. And yeah, I'd check under the dash first, if only because I hate bleeding hydraulic systems.

You can bypass it with a union, there was a post on it on here somewhere. The dampener is to assist with smooth shifts IIRC. First I would check the return spring on the pedal itself as well as bleeding the clutch fluid. I still have mine In place and have never had an issue. Just replaced a couple bad slave cylinders. If it were me I'd check everything else before hacking into it to bypass it.

Trialsin- yes, a better option than lifting the rear would be the airlift bags, like these. New rear lift springs would make the car look funny when unloaded. Knightryder- yes, you could drop the rear an inch or two, but why not drop the whole car? I don't see the point in just dropping the rear.