Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2022 in Posts

  1. My vq leaks considerably less and runs quieter with Rotella T4 15w40 for what that's worth. Valve cover gasket shouldn't affect oil pressure, the oil is just gravity draining back to the pan at that point. If its not smoking and your not constantly smelling burning oil I wouldn't worry about it on the trip. Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle though! Lol
    2 points
  2. I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press. The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints. On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent ?). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph. It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.
    2 points
  3. Unless the joints are so flogged that they've eaten into the yokes, or the driveshaft has obvious dents/chowder marks/slop in the slip joint, I would just throw a set of joints at it and see where that gets you. Check your front diff bushings while you're in there, I remember someone on here had a vibration that came down to the diff flopping around under load and putting the joint at weird angles.
    2 points
  4. Pulled the transmission and t-case down tonight. Part of an overhaul on the truck that started on Saturday. Valve covers and up, fuel injector service, new plugs, main seal, coolant system (including rear crossover pipe and stuff). Also swapping in a 4:1 t-case and changing the motor mounts. Dangerously close to proceeding with the SAS at this point…
    1 point
  5. If you don't see smoke, I wouldn't worry too much. That's not to say it couldn't catch fire--GM did a recall for their 3800s doing exactly that--but most things I've worked on were leaking some amount of oil onto the exhaust, and none of them came in because of engine fires. I can smell the leak in our snowplow, and it annoys me, but not enough that I've bothered trying to fix it again. My friend's Toyota was leaking bad enough that the oil was pooling between the head and the exhaust manifold gasket. That one was bad enough to smoke after driving, and bad enough that we replaced the gasket for fear of it catching fire. I'm running high-mileage oil in my VG because it's cheap and why not. I haven't tracked my rear main leak to see if it's slowed any. Thicker oil might leak a little slower, but I wouldn't expect any flavor of goo-in-a-can to fix the gaskets if they're hard and cracked like mine were. If you can get to the valve cover fasteners, you might try snugging them up a little. IIRC there's also an oil cooler on the VQs that can leak, something else to check. I wouldn't assume it's a crankcase pressure issue just because it only leaks while running. The engine only pumps oil to the heads when it's running. My dad had the PCV done on his '03 (chasing the quart/1000 miles oil consumption) and the guy said he managed it without pulling the intake, but it didn't sound like he had fun doing it. It didn't solve the oil consumption. I've heard various explanations for why some VQs guzzle oil, from the design of the PCV baffles to the power valve screws falling in and chewing stuff up to excessive bore taper. My dad's smoked on warm starts, but otherwise drove fine so long as he kept oil in it. And, yeah, the IACV leaks coolant into the electronics and smokes the driver mosfet in the computer. Genius-level design at work there. The VG has its own quirks/issues, but, yeah, I wasn't impressed with the VQ.
    1 point
  6. Auto or manual? If it's auto, and it's shifting normally, that would suggest the trans computer knows what's going on even if the engine computer and gauge did not, which might help narrow it down. If it's manual, well, there's that theory shot. And, yeah, go get the '97 manual from Nicoclub. Should be some troubleshooting or at least a circuit diagram in the EL section. There's a lot of hand-holding for using the special dealer Consult tool, but there's usually an alternate method for the rest of us. If the sensor is good (and so is the gear that drives it), and both the cluster and the computer say they're not seeing anything, that would have me looking for a wiring fault in between them.
    1 point
  7. Honestly it sounds like a broken wire or corrosion on a connector somewhere. It'll be a pain to track down but I'd start inspecting the wiring harness. You can view the 1997 factory service manual here: Nissan Service Manuals - NICOclub
    1 point
  8. I say YAY. A mesh grill would make the front end pop some more for less effort but your design would be unique and look just as good if not better if you don't mind the work. A guy did this grill design to his Xterra and it turned out great. Blacked out edges of headlights look great also.
    1 point
  9. I'm kind of tired of not seeing anything at night and I was planning on retrofitting some Morimoto projectors. While considering it, I was looking at Toyota's 70 Series LC anniversary edition and the relatively minor tweaks they did to the front end (blacking out headlights, grille, old school logo): I think it looks great without going overboard. I put my rusty Photoshop skills to good use and came up with this: The idea would be blacking out the headlight surrounds while retrofitting the projectors and getting a Patrol Y60 grille emblem (I think I oversized it above, should be smaller). There are some similar headlights already on eBay but they are both: A. Crap and B. They paint the turn signal reflector which is dumb. Yay? Nay? Not sure if I like it myself. Looks different alright but not sure if it fits the car.
    1 point
  10. By driveline I mean driveshaft. If the shop has the equipment to balance driveshafts they should have no problem with it. It's been a couple years since I did the front, they may not have come with multiple snap rings, I might be getting it confused with the rear. I've never needed a different size though and I doubt you will either. A driveshaft shop would be able to figure it out either way
    1 point
  11. Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel ?
    1 point
  12. I have no idea. Until I saw that in the manual, I didn't even know U joints were adjustable. Looks like some heavy duty Dana/Spicer joints require shimming, so maybe this isn't as weird as I think it is. Something to ask the shop doing the job. But, yeah, I had the same thought, that not setting these up right might be behind some of the stubborn vibration issues I've seen on here.
    1 point
  13. Got curious and checked the manual again. Looks like the snap rings for the U joints are also shims, and you select different snap rings to get the axial play into spec. The manual has part numbers for various thicknesses. No idea how you'd know what to order before getting into it. I don't know if anyone actually bothers with this, but I would at least check the play before putting it back in. PD section of the FSM.
    1 point
  14. @SpecialWarr Hijack accepted. So, as long as the WD21 differential is also an LSD unit, then you should be able to swap the side gears over. You'll likely want to bring over the spider gears as well, but can omit the thrust block (if one). This would basically make your WD21 diff support 33-splines. If we're not talking LSD diffs, then no, the side gears can't be swapped, but the entire diff might be able to if the WD21 gears use 12mm bolts...I think it was tied to the use of 11 attachment studs on the housing vs. 9 studs. I'm not sure what the cut-off was between 11- and 9-stud, might've been 1989 or maybe didn't exist on WD21 and was only a D21. I'm honestly not sure. FWIW, I've had no problems finding replacement H233B parts from RockAuto. In fact, pretty much the only thing I get OEM are the gaskets (38320-T3322). Not that there are many parts to replace in these diffs, but I've used National 32306C (pinion bearing & race), 32308C (pinion bearing & race), and 710195 (pinion seal) before. Can't seem to find any differential carrier bearings I've purchased, but OE p/n is 38440-60000 which cross-refs to National KC11445Y. Needless to say, these parts seem readily available so not sure what that mechanic is smoking. As for "what else"...probably not much more. There are oil seals at the ends of the axle tube that can be changed. Only way to replace the grease seals are to tear down the axle shafts. Beyond that, new gasket and fluid.
    1 point
  15. I don't know driveshafts well enough to judge how much slop is too much, and I don't see a spec in the manual (though it does spec total runout at 0.6mm). The only truly bad one I've seen was in our '63 Scout, and that thing was so whupped it was sagging in the middle. I wouldn't expect an IFS truck to put enough stress on the slip joint to wear it out. If you can't make it go clunk wiggling it by hand, I would call it good enough--but, again, I'm not a driveshaft guy. I have heard of driveshaft weights coming off, though not on one of these that I can remember. I would expect to see an obvious bare spot and busted welds where the weight used to be if this had happened. The diff bushing symptoms don't match yours from what I remember. Just something to check while you're in the neighborhood.
    1 point
  16. Hey, mine only makes a dismal moan on right turns! Damned if I know why, I've done all four wheel bearings.
    1 point
  17. Are the joints noticeably bad? I've always used spicer brand u-joints with little issue. You could take it to a driveline shop to have them changed and they will test that it is balanced, which definitely will solve your vibrations.
    1 point
  18. wd21 life is an endless, dismal moan.
    1 point
  19. Yes. Notable only to 2WD R50s, they used a different pinion flange (6-point star) so you can only use the 3rd if you swap the flange (4-point square).
    1 point

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...