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Just incase anyone needed to know, you CAN fit a fully dressed VG33ER in the back of an R50!

Here's a link to the service manual. Page 196. basically warm, then hold no load 2k rpm for 2 minutes then check timing in N should be about 15 degrees +/- 2

ECCS is not a separate component, it's just what Nissan called the whole engine control system (computer, injectors, sensors, the lot). The "ECCS control module" is just the ECM. There's an ECCS relay, controlled by the ECM, which sends power to the injectors, the cam position sensor, the MAF, and one of the evap valves. That diagram's on EC-11 of the '97 manual. I don't know what model/year your donor is, but the '02 Xterra diagram looks quite similar, except that they renamed the ECCS relay as an ECM relay, and it doesn't control the injectors anymore. IMO the deciding factor is gonna be how much stupid stuff like that Nissan changed between the two computers. Compare the pinouts in the service manuals. Hopefully they're close enough that you can get away with a little repinning. Maybe steal a few pins from the donor connector to get that boost solenoid hooked up. I remember My1Path doing something similar to put an M30 ECU in his WD21, but I don't think I've heard of anyone doing it on an R50, so you may be the first pig through this chute. If they're stupid different, or the connector itself is different, or you're planning to hot rod the engine past the donor's original power, then the Megasquirt might be the way to go. My personal favorite is Automatic Speed Control Device, aka cruise control.

Moms og owner and was bone stock when I got it. and I've hit them with the impact and have had no issues. I meant to get them same length as the studs but they were like 1/4" longer but still worked. Hardware is hardware along as it fits properly, is as strong as or stronger, and can be removed as easier than before. Some other guy was worried about the rear trailing arm bolt and I just said get some metric high sheer bolts and you'll have no issues. just try and get the same size as before or what ever is common in your tool kit lol

im using stainless hex bolts that are way too long compared to original. my OG hardware was actually studs and nuts on the R50. They're the same through all 80-00 Nissan 4x4s from what I can see. my friends Xterra, brothers wd21 and my r50 all share same hub hardware

I suspect that 40254-32G00 is correct for manual hubs (as it's the only PN listed from the lookup # for manual hubs), and 40266-50W00 is correct for auto hubs, and someone balls'd up the data entry and listed it for both of them. But this suspicion was based partially on the listed year ranges and my assumption that the W/D22 did not come with auto hubs, which it turns out they did. The diagram for an '01 X shows auto and manual hub options, and lists 40254-32G00 for both. I would then assume that the two bolts are the same... except that this post says they're not. I removed auto hubs from my '93 and my '95, and I don't tend to throw bolts away. If you break one, and strike out locally, let me know and I'll see if they're still hanging out in my bonus bolts drawer. FWIW, I was able to get all the bolts out of mine without breaking them, though it did take some heat-and-beat on the '95.

I figured I would start over and check the TPS. I didn't really check it very good the first time. I was able to get the TPS to read. The manual says it should go up to 9 ohms resistance. The best I could bet was 7.3 ohms.

Solved. There is a fuse box under the hood that is on the passenger side top and contains a 10A fuse that feeds the other fusebox with all the relays and other trailer stuff. I checked that fuse and it was fine BUT, after plugging it back in, the behavior changed. Turns out the fuse socket for that 10A was corroded and not making good fuse contact. Cleaned it up, bent the tabs and reinserted the fuse. Now everything works as expected.

First camping trip of the year back at the end of April. Didn't have the awning room set up yet but love the awning alone. I use the awning room as my tent, a small cot and my diesel heater and it works amazing super cozy setup. It also allows me to get into the side with a zip up fly against the car so no need to get out to get gear. Can't wait for real summer camping! Rigs starting to show its age if you zoom in close enough, just means I gotta spend some time with the ol' girl.

IMO better to pull the upper cover off and get a proper look, than to drill a hole and potentially drop a bunch of swarf into the belt so you can squint at a screen.

I am a little confused on what you're trying to achieve. Are you looking for something in particular, or just keeping an eye on things? +1 for a grommet if you do start making holes. My dad's Tundra had an open hole in the timing cover (previous hack lost a grommet), and a mouse got in. It turns out skipping two teeth is not enough to kill a 2UZ-FE, but making one skip two teeth is absolutely enough to kill a mouse.