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Yeah I know about how the diffs work, i just assumed it wasn't open in the front for some reason. And because this is primarily my winter vehicle im running Cooper Discoverer AT/W We had to watch those damn training films in college too. for some reason i just assumed it wasn't an open in the front. But good to know about the hubs thank you Overall she pulls the cars good just a little to much mud on a bit of an incline and she was slipping. Approached from a different line without the car and made it out and then did a reverse pull when i had better traction further up to finish the job

I see you’ve got a d-ring in your driver side tow hook: just so you’re aware, there’s a moderate consensus that you shouldn’t recover a vehicle or be recovered using those front tow hooks, they’re really not designed with that scenario in mind. They seem to be totally ok for simple towing, but if a vehicle is really stuck or hung up, they’ve been known to fail:

Big weekend for me. Got the light bar mounted on the rack. No glare at all with how far back it is. Not a bit of light hits the hood. Ran the wiring down the rain stripping. Just pulled the rubber back on the a pillar and tucked it in there. Also got the amp and CB hooked up. Had to modify the Firestik mount a bit to get it to sit right with the cable I had. All wires go through an existing hole in the firewall where the wiring comes in. Just pushed the gasket towards the engine and cut a small line in it for my wires to pass through then pulled it back in. Also got my receiver installed and mounted my bumper light bar inside the first hole in the bumper. Previously I had it mounted to the front license plate bracket but this is much sturdier. Not sure about the best way to post pictures so here is the direct link for better quality. https://imgur.com/a/3M8Z1OR https://imgur.com/a/xTqLtX2

^Gotta love those old training films! An open diff applies equal torque to the left and right wheels, regardless of speed. If a wheel is slipping, the torque it takes to make that wheel slip is all the torque the other wheel on that axle will get, and giving it more gas just spins the slipping wheel faster. The power that two wheels on an open diff axle can put down is limited by the wheel with the least traction. TL;DR: if one front wheel is spinning and the other isn't, that's normal for an open diff. Also, don't worry about auto hubs, those were a WD21 thing. Your R50 came with drive flanges, which have no moving parts and should be pretty much bomb-proof.

Unless you have lockers the truck has open differentials. The tires with less grip spin. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Beautiful in East Tennessee today. Sent from my SM-S367VL using Tapatalk

I already got out fishing this year! Didn't catch anything though... Lmao Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

Lovells or Dobinson do full kits for fairly low cost definitely worth checking out.. Actual lift kits not spacers

I just installed a new fuel pump and filter because I was convinced I had a fuel pressure issue after my Pathy was doing the same as what yours sounds like.. It was running fine after the installs.. until 15 minutes later when I needed to get a tow truck to get me home.. Issue ended up being the distributor.. Hope yours in a quick fix, but if not the dizzy might be the next thing to check..

A few snaps of yesterday's track hunting here in South Australia

thats not bad since mine is rusted out in that corner anyways.

Not my rig but I was lucky enough to pilot this beast through AZ recently. HUGE thanks to @hawairish and his family for hosting us and letting the wifey and I use his vehicle to tour the Sonoran desert and the Colorado plateau. His rig is the most well sorted R50 I've seen. Everything is so well tuned and thought out. From the numerous mechanical upgrades and trick incognito pneumatic setup to the camping/fridge organizer in the back. It left me super inspired with a laundry list of things to improve on my own truck.

Was eating dinner and trying to recall a spec I haven't used in years. I deal with many different years, brands, and models at work so my memory is not the most trustworthy. According to the manual I have stored on my computer, the pressure regulator is supposed to keep it at 43 psi approximately. That is for the VG30E in the Pathfinder/pickup application.

yes i know what it looks like. yes im 16 no its not plasti dip its bed liner and hey at least i welded on some recovery point when i redid my front bumper. only thing i can say about it is everything is not bought form someone i built the rear bumper my self and my dad built the front but i redid it a little over a month ago. BUT at least i built it so that makes my style alright. right? Light bar because middle on no where and amazon boxing day sale. anyways this is my most current picture and thought i would show my little bit of progress over the past 6 or maybe more of working on it on my free time. Rear bumper i designed and as for the front its the same except when my dad built it years ago he put the cross bar over the coolant plug and it was kind of hidden. cut it apart moved the hitch hole forward and added more points to the left and right and added a light bar because people dont like to wear reflective clothing while walking along a main road in the mountains. Lift kit coming at some point when i decide i want to actually save money. https://imgur.com/a/bxxy2Bt

Do you know if the 5 speed from a 97 r50 would mount up to a 3.5?

I was towing some cars out of my backyard today in 4Low and after a bit the ground was real soft and started spinning in some mud. I'm like 75% though that as i was spinning in mud i dont think my driver front wheel was spinning. I replaced my axle the other month so i know thats all good but could it be an auto hub issue? Im not mistaken that 4Low would be driving all 4 wheels right?