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Pulled it out to give it a wash today.

Haven't dealt with this on my Pathfinder fortunately, but did on my 98 Frontier. It sucked. Charcoal pellets all the way from the rear of the truck to the solenoid valve in the engine bay. My issue produced a P1444 (purge solenoid valve) but the codes in that series tend to be related, and in my case the code was brought about by a ruptured charcoal canister. Blowing and vacuuming the lines is not enough. The charcoal crumbs get jammed together in the lines. You need to use a stiff, but flexible, wire to push through every hard line, and it may be necessary to remove any hoses. Flush the lines with pressured water if possible, but house pressure is fine. Then continue to blow and vacuum the lines using whatever attachments you can to maximize pressure. Repeat this couple times. Any little charcoal crumb will eventually clog the line or find its way into the solenoid. My long term solution there was to put a transparent fuel filter on the line right off the canister. BTW, the solenoids can be fixed if they clog, since they're not cheap to replace. You just bend the little metal tabs in a little and split the coil portion from the plunger. Some pins/needles can dislodge pieces that are blocking the valve. The solenoids are also commonly used on other Nissans (the one on my 04 Pathfinder is identical to the one on my 98 Frontier). Not sure about the "405". What are you using to pull codes? Is the code exactly "P0405" on screen? Reason for asking is because in 98, you could pull "codes" directly from the ECU without a scanner, but the code it flashed was not the DTC "P" code. The FSM was needed to convert the ECU code to the DTC code. I'm not seeing "0405" as an ECU nor DTC code in the 98 R50 FSM, so that's why I'm curious about what's being used to pull the code. Maybe it's P0450 (control system pressure sensor) and there's a leak if a hose was disconnected or misrouted?

New lines (silver fittings) made and installed! PTFE hose vs. rubber. Same ID, both steel braided, both with fabric cover. The rubber hose just feels better, and while I still think the PTFE can withstand the working pressure, it was the end fittings that make all the difference. The new fitting style just feels superior to the PTFE ones. Installation of the new fittings wasn't too bad. Less prep work required for the hose; it cut easily with a mini-cutoff saw I have. The only tough thing about the new fittings was preventing the hose from untwisting in the outer nut piece when tightening the main fitting thingy in. It takes a fair amount of torque to tighten it, and because the hose installs into the outer nut as left-hand threaded, it wants to twist out. I had to misused some non-marring jaws on my vise to hold the hose stationary. Maybe I didn't lube it up enough, but eventually got it. Those hoses are rigid enough to stay in position. Good clearance all around, shouldn't interfere with belts and radiator fan. I'll find out the hard way if they ever do. K&N installed the other month...mostly straight-forward install. Heat shield didn't line up the way I expected, so just had to make a new hole. Also, this gave me a little more room around the fittings coming off the steering gearbox. There was room with the factory air box after it was shifted over and raised up a little. Definitely not a requirement for the SAS...but I figured why not. After topping off the power steering reservoir and cycling things a few times, I was stoked to see that the hoses had not grenaded! No leaks, no squeals, no nothing, which is great. Took it for a ride in the neighborhood and around the block a few times. The first trip was sketchy! Truck was wandering pretty badly and there was a lot of slop in the steering wheel. Fixed the slop easily...it was just an adjustment on the steering gearbox that I left loose when I rebuilt the box. Guess I could've tightened it up before the drive. Fixing the slop fixed the majority of the driving issues. It was still wandering a little, and steering was a bit tight. I increased the caster to be more positive, but it did not seem to improve the wandering or self-centering. Changing the caster means I need to adjust the drag link a little to correct the steering wheel, but I suspect the toe is also off a little, and maybe I'll fix that first to see what changes. There may still be other tweaks I need on the suspension. Feels a little hard hitting dips, but otherwise the streets feel smooth. Anyway...I was able to put 10 miles on it today, which is pretty huge. Acceleration feels laggier than I recall, but I'm sure the 114°F temp and 5.12s gears are surely factors. AC still works well, the ABS tone rings are doing their job, the engine is nice and quiet and maintained temperature (not sure who recalls all the mild-overheating issues I was going through before the SAS started). I mean, it better maintain temp...I replaced nearly every damn part on the system. For now I just need to sort out the remaining steering/alignment issues, get some miles on it to get the ECU emissions ready, get it tested, and get the tags renewed (I'm just a little late on those).

Try this one. I think it's the same file, which I downloaded ages ago, couldn't remember where I found it, and uploaded to Dropbox to send it to somebody.