Leaderboard

Unbadged is generally an XE on the R50, only SE and LE had a badge. This was told to me way back in the day from a dealer service manager, like 20 years ago lol.

OK, answered my own question. Pulled the rear sway bar assembly apart. Links are junk. Ordered new. So, will get new bushings and links. Guess I will be looking at front links soon. BTW, you cannot believe how much dirt and gravel I vacuumed out. But, this is an Arizona car and very little rust. All came apart easily. After the front bar links need to chase oil leak. Hope to hell not a rear main seal. Only drips a drop each time. Engine uses VERY little oil. I check frequently. 180,000 miles plus. Ya’ know, I have a 2023 Tacoma P/U that is better on fuel, good power and lots of creature comfort. But, I love my 2000 Pathfinder. It’s a beast. MTG

Never fun when it goes back together and still doesn't work. I'm guessing you've got a cracked coolant line or a loose block drain or something up above the pan, and it's running down. I don't know the VQ, so I don't know what the most likely culprit would be, but I'd start the search with anything coolant-related that you've touched recently, that's above where you're seeing the drips. Clean/dry the area if you're having a hard time seeing what's new and what isn't. But if it's a steady drip, it should show itself pretty quick, unless it's right proper buried. The no-start and clicking really does sound like the battery to me. If it's resting at 11.5, then it's right proper flat. Are you sure the other battery is good? A clapped battery can show good voltage, but fall on its face when loaded. Do you have a jumper pack, or another vehicle that you can jump it from? While you're in there, make sure your terminals are tight and clean, and check that you didn't remove an engine ground and forget to put it back on.

I rebuilt mine in 2023. I had the service manual and followed that, but also found the below video and follow-up assembly videos the most useful. I also downloaded the below website, which went offline but is still available on Internet Archive. https://web.archive.org/web/20170224101545/http://beergarage.com/PathTransmission1Remove.aspx The Pathfinder trans is just the 300ZX trans with a pull clutch and different (replaceable) rear on the 4WD models. Means for 01-04 we have double-cone synchros on both 2nd and 3rd. The bearing kits (BK240) are all the same for this model of transmission, it's the kits with synchros that are different (which you generally can't get anyway). I couldn't get the complete kit with bearings and synchros at the time, so I just bought the bearing kit ZMBK240, identified each synchro part # from Amayama and purchased them separately. You might find like me that you can order and pay for the full kit, then they'll refund you and say it's not available. Given their ages now I wouldn't install a used transmission without first opening it up. I bought my used trans from B&R and when arrived it was full of mud and wood chips and rust as it was obviously left outside in the rain. It 100% had to be cleaned and parts replaced. When in there I found the reverse gear missing a tooth, the reverse gear design is weak and its synchro doesn't work well so I replaced all those gears too. Apparently you should never put a 300ZX/Pathfinder manual into reverse until you've stopped and waited a second for the gears to slow down. I replaced all the synchros because you wouldn't reuse them condition unknown. I also replaced the smaller inner gear bearings that don't come with the kit and are ignored - the new updated versions were minus one needle, probably for better oil flow. Shifts are smooth as butter, well worth the time. If you're interested I could put up a post on my rebuild. Pro tip, I used a toaster oven to heat up then drop the 'press fit' gears in place, made it so much easier and I don't feel like a caveman hammering on precision parts.

After reviewing several transfer cases, I realized that the one I was considering didn't match my vehicle. I'm glad I didn't go through with the purchase. I reached out to the wrecker who supplied my transfer case motor, and he was able to find my exact transfer case. He used my VIN and instructed me to look for a smaller metal plate located below the larger plate next to my brake booster. We matched the number associated with the part for my Auto Transfer I cant remember exactly what it said but all the numbers matched with mine. He confirmed that the transfer case was from a 2001 R50 Pathfinder with a 4WD dial. I was able to purchase it for $1,010 plus shipping. My mechanic quoted me about $300 to $400 for labor to take the old transfer out and put the other one in, bringing the total to around $1,410. This is a great deal compared to the $8,000 to $9,000 I was quoted for rebuilding my original transfer case. Hopefully, after installing this new transfer case, all of my issues will finally be resolved. It can't be much else, so fingers crossed that everything works properly again. I'm eager to get back to the dirt tracks and camping, but this time, I'll be sure to avoid any water.