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In case anyone was wondering what the manual locking hubs that I got looked like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTWXLS3S?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title They come with no instructions, but They do go on EXACTLY the same as the OE ones. I don't think I was overlooking anything, but I couldn't get the clip that retains the center assembly on the splined shaft. It's like 1mm too long and the clip won't go in the grove. A thinner jesus clip or something like lockwire (In my case) is needed. Maybe it's just me. A lot of mixed reviews, but I think the people were just installing them wrong as I did the first time I slapped them on. I'm not fully endorsing them as being the same as or as good as the OE ones, but they look good and they seem to work fine once I figured it out. No hubcap modification needed if that's what you're trying to avoid like me.

There are actually two switches on the brake pedal, but you're correct in assessing that if the brake lights work then the switch is good, because the AT interlock is triggered by the same switch. The other switch is for the cruise control system. The likely culprit is the park position switch on the back of the shifter assembly. When the shifter is in the Park position, it closes the ground leg of the shifter solenoid that unlocks the shifter when the brake pedal is pressed. If you supply 12V to the solenoid (also on the shifter assembly) and it latches, then the solenoid is good. You can check for continuity on the switch. In my case, my truck's previous owner tucked a chunk of tubing into the shifter override (the hole you can stick a screwdriver in to manually get the shifter out of park) because the park switch had failed. I found a replacement switch on Digikey (.com) for a couple bucks and soldered it in. You can use the tubing approach in a pinch, being fully aware that it will allow the truck to be shifted out of Park without a key and without the brake pedal being depressed. I'd just keep a screwdriver or tool in the truck until it's fixed. Don't forget there's also an interlock cable that provides mechanical functionality. The shifter moving from park also requires a key in the ignition and turned to ON. It's unlikely it's the problem, but you'd want to confirm that the correct slack/length is set where the cable connects to the shifter assembly. Full details are in the Factory Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. Check the Automatic Transmission (AT) chapter, "A/T SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM" section after all the diagnostic code stuff.

Good work getting it back together. Sounds like the distributor is off a tooth. Or is that what you meant by moving the splines? Make sure you're setting it with the engine warmed up. Also check that the balancer hasn't slipped, as Adamzan noted above. Hopefully clearing up the timing wakes it up! EC-23 of the '99 manual says that the knock sensor is not used to tune the engine. It's just to tell the computer if something goes wrong. I relo'd the sensor on mine to the back of the driver's side head. Haven't had any issues with it. I was glad I did it when the sensor failed and I didn't have to pull the intake to swap it out! But I imagine it would struggle to pick up the sound of knocking from the passenger's side, if something did go wrong.

Latest update: I got MOST of the parts on the chassis re-installed last night. Nothing is tight. Will have to lay under it for a while tightening up all of the fasteners. All that I have left on the floor of the garage is the front sway bar, front drive shaft, Crossmember with torsion bars, and a short piece of exhaust between the Y-pipe and Catalytic converter (O2 sensor will have to get plugged back in), and routing and securing of cable/wires. Now that I write it down, that's quite a bit of work left.... And ofcourse, there is the interior which hasn't been touched, and all of the oil that needs to go into the engine and transmission. Lots of little simple stuff, but it all adds up... One thing I will say was a heck of a LOT easier to do was to install/tighten back up the drivers side exhaust without the front axle installed. Also. The starter was also easier to install without the passengers side exhaust installed.... Everything, I mean EVERYTHING, is interference on these things under the hood if you're looking for some room to work!! I would even consider the front axle being interference to the transmission. There are a couple of bolts that I feel would have been almost impossible to install with the axle in place. I don't think I was doing it wrong, but I couldn't even see the top bolts of the transmission when I was putting them in. It was MOSTLY by feel. So... I think that's going to be it for this thread unless someone wants to add to it

How about this one RB26DETT :o