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I had the same problem with my center console. The second or third time I had to remember where all the spade terminals hooked up, I bought an extension cable for something in a PC (similar to this), cut it in half to make two mating pigtails, and wired one side to the switches and the other to the harness. I'm not going to call this the right way to do it, but it was cheap, it was easy, and it worked. Looks like you can get ethernet cable in "extension" form as well, and I'll bet it would be easier to fish through an A pillar. However you do it, draw up a wiring diagram so you're not reverse-engineering your own work later on.

This is for anyone wanting to “repack” their H233B clutch-based limited-slip differential (LSD). It applies to C200 and H190A LSDs, too. It does not apply to other Nissan/Infiniti RWD/AWD diffs, such as the viscous LSD in R200V. It won’t cover the specific how-to’s of differential removal, setup, or installation, but will cover the basic assembly process. (I’ll answer any questions related to those topics, though.) All specific information (instructions, service data, torque specs, etc.) is in the “Propeller Shaft and Differential Carrier” (PD) chapter of the Factory Service Manual (FSM), and I’ll expect you to read it; there’s a section specifically for H233B LSDs. FSMs are available at https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals. Table of Contents LSD 101 Technical Objective Repacking Assembly Testing Some Q&A first... Do you have a LSD? With very few exceptions, LSDs were not standard equipment. You probably have one if: There’s an orange sticker with “LSD OIL” verbiage on the backside of the axle’s diff hump. Any of these test conditions are true (if there’s no distinguishable resistance, or if test #3 is false, then it’s an open diff): Transmission in neutral, one tire off the ground, spin the tire slowly; there’s resistance before the driveshaft rotates. Transmission in park/gear, both tires off the ground, spin one tire slowly; there’s resistance before the other tire spins in the opposite direction. Transmission in neutral, both tires off the ground, spin one tire slowly; the other tire spins in the same direction while the driveshaft rotates You’re cool enough to have the window sticker and it lists it. I shouldn’t have to mention to chock the front wheels and disengage the parking brake when testing, but there it is. What LSD configuration do you have? This boils down to “what truck do you have?”, since it’ll determine what configuration you have, what improvements can be made, and which parts/donors will help the most. What if you have an open diff but want LSD? You’ll need the entire LSD carrier from a truck with the same spline count. You don’t “need” the entire 3rd member, just the carrier, unless it’s got the gears you want. In most cases, the entire 3rd is easier to obtain. What donor trucks can you use? Pieces can come from any 2004 or older LSD, except Patrols. You should mainly limit this search to only WD21, D21, 00-02 Xterra, and 01-02 Frontiers. If you already have an LSD, the spline count on the donor is irrelevant. What’s your budget? Expect to pay $75-$500 for LSD carriers or complete 3rd members from local junkyards or eBay. If you want new OE pieces, some are still out there for $40-$50/ea (and you typically buy in pairs), but Nissan has discontinued the pieces. There are also other costs (fluids/oils, gaskets, seals, bearings, tools, etc.). Are you considering a gear swap? Make that decision since you’ll have the 3rd member down and apart. For R50 owners, you can get 01-02 Frontier or Xterra rear diffs with the same 4.363 and 4.636 gears and a desirable LSD configuration, but you’ll still need to find a 96-00 R50 to get the front gears if going to 4.636. All H233B 3rd members can be swapped to any other H233B axle housing, as long as the number of mounting studs and splines are the same. What’s your mechanical aptitude? Dropping the differential can be done with hand tools in an hour or so, provided no issues with hardware or rust. It’s a 70lb chunk of metal, so don’t drop it on your face. Rebuilding a diff can also be done with hand tools, but there are some specialty tools and knowledge required. Disregarding certain steps of the process can lead to noise and possibly failure. However, it’s highly unlikely you’ll find a shop willing to do this work, including 4wd and differential shops that do gears all day long. Don’t let those Jeep shops touch your truck; they’ll just fskc everything up, I promise. A Nissan dealerhip probably won’t do this work, either (at least not to the specificity discussed here). Consider this a DIY or HAFDIFY (have a friend do it for you) job. Is it difficult? On a scale of 1-10, I’ll put it around 7. It’s probably an all-day task for the average Joe/Jane, on par with changing out a timing belt or chain. The advantage is you can do much of the work on a bench, but the disadvantages are needing some specialty tools and the smell of gear oil. The job also involves bleeding the brakes, among other basic wrenching tasks. Is it worth it? If you off-road, yes. Even a weak LSD is better than an open diff any day. It’s not a locker (I don’t care what you or Nissan calls it—it’s not a locker), but it’ll act like one until it can’t. Although this guide is geared for off-road use, a moderate rebuild would do well on the street. It’s more affordable than a locker...however, requires as much work as installing one. So, if you’re on the bubble and the price of a locker is within reach, and you want max traction, consider getting an actual locker.

Great suggestions in there, especially cutting the extension cable. The ribbon cable on that sort of application also helps, since it can be flat or rolled up to wrap around existing wires...and being power wires for PC application like what you provided, they'll do well handling 12V and a bit more current. And definitely make wiring diagrams!

By my estimate, most applications should be doable in 8 wires (12V, illumination, and 6 signal leads) while using a ground in the roof (I presume there's a good one on the sunroof motor). If you don't plan to have the switches handling the load, you can get away with a smaller gauge wire and a relay module. With an array of modules, that wire could then become one or two multi-conductor cables (i.e., a Cat6 cable can handle the voltage, but only a small current...but it allows the use of other RJ45 connection means, which might help things). But, I don't think routing wires up there is too problematic. Not having a rat's nest above the panel is the real challenge. It would be terrible if removing the console meant disconnecting two dozen slide connectors. I use pinned harnesses for this sort of stuff. The do sell Carling switch harnesses, but they look really bulky.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182445594617 I’d highly recommend color coding if you have the patience. In the long run it will make rewiring & diagnosis easier. SUPER happy with this item from BP Automotive btw, superb quality. That said, it’s bulky for sure. Not a problem at the A-Pillar for trucks without air bags but probably an issue with them. It’s just going to be ALOT of wires. While less robust, that’s part of the reason I’m going with one of these below on the Pathy. @02_Pathy put his in front of the shifter & it’s perfect. 8 Gang & the lights are down out of your peripheral vision where they won’t bother you at night. Plus, much easier to wire. Though admittedly not as robust as the system I put in the 4Runner. Photos courtesy of @‘02_Pathy Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Panel Automatic Dimmable LED Touch Control Panel Box Electronic Relay System Car Touch Switch Box Universal for Truck ATV UTV Boat Marine SUV Caravan https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KZLB74K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F5H8DPTXKEBYW0XQJS9Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Checking the oil about a week ago I noticed all of these cracks in the engine fan: Probably not too far off letting go! Found a new OEM blade, not an easy part to find these days, although I am sure there are other 80s nissans that could donate a 2nd hand one. Another job ticked off the list. Next is to build a battery tray and get the 2nd battery back in (another thing the PO removed) and fit my fridge/freezer in the back. Going out to chase the yella tomorrow, looking forward to it. Stay safe all.