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Exhaust leaks shouldn't be the issue, mine leaks too. Doesn't seem like there should be any connection between the flasher and the engine running like crap. The intermittent nature of the problem does point to an electrical fault. Checking timing's not a bad idea. Sometimes the dizzy craps out and it gets worse as it warms up, which could explain the issue worsening. Did you do anything else at the parts store, anything under the hood? I'd take a look at the MAF wiring, just see if it's obviously wiggly or corroded. Look around where you installed the flasher, make sure you didn't knock anything else out, though I'm not sure what/how that would be. Also try running codes, on the off chance the computer's got some idea of what's going on.

Hey gang, Over the last 18 months I've really come to love my WD21 Pathfinder! So many quirks and features. If you were going to do a "Doug DeMuro style" review of your WD21, what quirks and features would you point out? I can think of a few, perhaps specific to my SE-V6 w/ Power Package It has a spoiler... haha You can engage the windshield washer without actually using the wiper blades Rear armrests on the outside, and seatbelt clips to keep the buckles nice and organized those LEGO wheels tho My 1992 doesn't have a check engine light... not that it's broken or depopulated, it just never came with one. period. gotta check those blinky lights on the computer! two tier roofline as a precursor to the 1st gen Xterras Old school switch-activated cruise control Gotta press that little button to get the key out - classic japanese style The triple "nostrils" on the grill "hidden" rear door handles Maybe if I collect enough I'll make a 'tribute video' on YouTube.... haha Cheers from sunny Colorado!

It was an EP34 from Novita. This was just for the turn signal/hazards. Not sure which one chimes when the lights or keys are on. Also... 4 hours later, and after taking out the flasher, the car runs fine, zero problems. What could possibly be happening???

Crawling around to disconnect and reconnect the driveshaft would suck, even on dry surface. You'd also need to make sure no one, including yourself, decides to start the truck and put it in gear when it's disconnected. That'll make for a bad day. Doing some additional light reading into the topic, though, I'm going to have to retract my prior opinion. The locked vs. unlocked steering got me thinking...it seems doable, but potentially unsafe. Compelling arguments read about included: Locked wheels being a slight angle, causing the vehicle to be towed crooked. The steering wheel lock being damaged. Unlocked wheels being able to turn left or right, causing fishtailing. Steering and suspension components being designed primarily for forward motion, not reverse. U-Haul having specific warnings to never to a car backwards on a dollly: https://www.uhaul.com/Articles/Tips/120/Tow-Dolly-User-Instructions/ So, given that, while it seems mechanically possible to do what's proposed, I'd say it's advised not to...which leaves disconnecting the driveshaft as the winning option. Carry a blanket to throw on the ground, and some big warning flag to throw on the steering wheel to prevent starting (perhaps in addition to disconnecting the battery once it's on the dolly).

Inspection today, passed no worries and car is now transferred into my name formally. Stalled at the lights on the way to our local DMV, which was weird, then couldn't get it back into gear.... Sure enough - Clutch slave cylinder blew.... Walked to a local service station, bought some brake fluid and crossed my fingers.... Pumped up the clutch good enough to be able to get it into gear and made it all the way home! In fairness I fitted the clutch and slave about 8 years ago when I had the car, so not a bad run from Taiwanese parts! I have a weeks wait for the parts now... I'm gagging to get out in this thing. Not the end of the world, as of midnight tonight we go into another 5 day lockdown.... Picked up some new seatcovers too, had some horrible brown faux leather ones on there. Stay safe out there FGF

Yeah, I kinda liked the IDX, especially the interior. Not crazy about the slab corners, but at least it's interesting. That is a clean two-door. Shame all the lead designer has to offer is marketing wank. Energy! Movement! Bold! Strong! This paint color means adventure!

I don't like it. Congratulations, Nissan, for making another lackluster car...or another Honda Pilot. I've grown so tired of Nissan engineers talking about WD21 inspiration and then they still produce some homage crapmobile. There's no lineage here whatsoever (and arguably, any lineage may have only ever existed in the Xterra). A second generation in a row they couldn't even get the rear door handles correct. Personally, I like the new Navara front end over the Frontier. I was hopeful that the new Frontier would have the body lines of the more recent Navara, but both were a departure. I keep hoping that Nissan will produce another matching-body truck/SUV combo like the Hardbody/Pathfinder and 1st and 2nd gen Frontiers/Xterras (and even 3rd gen Pathfinder). In this case, I was hoping for a Frontier/Terra joint release. Disappointed yet again. I'll add that the Pathfinders (R50 and R51) and Xterras (WD22 and N40) should never have coexisted (and the R50 wasn't a good successor to the WD21)...which gets me to the new Pathfinder: With the Xterra having been out of the picture for a several years, Nissan should have done a chassis-share between the Frontier and Pathfinder. And bring the diesels over! (There are a single- and twin-turbo diesels overseas!) Nissan just continues to create bland vehicles here. I can't tell the difference between a Versa, Sentra, Altima, or Maxima any more. It's probably just a matter of time before the Frontier and Titan are FWD, too.

Hey, thanks for all the detailed infos you shared with us.. we owe you.. i have repacked 4 LSD’s so far for me and friends.. following all your advices and all successful .. 1- #|0|0|0|0|||() ——— 100 ft.ibs ( 19.30 ) 2- #|0|0|0|0|0|)) ——— 110 ft.ibs (19.35 ) 3- #|0|0|0|0|0|)) ——— 130 ft.ibs ( 19.55 ) 4- #|0|0|0|0||))) ——— 148 ft.ibs ( 19.60 ) this morning i tried this configuration : #|||0||||0|||)) ——— (20.09) it was spool.. i ran out of FD so i tried with what i have and used all thin FB.. now i am not sure is it because of the lack of FD’s or because of the stack hight increment or because of both?? I will try other configurations once i get more plates from JY.. will keep u updated if i made any improvements .. my goal is 150-250 ft.ibs anyway, just wanted to share my experience with you guys.. thanks again for every single info in this great forum .

My SE had the 8 speaker system with 5x7s. The cones were intact but NO rubber around the edge... and pathetic sound. I didn't want a competition stereo, just similar to stock sound. Alpine sps-517 are under 60$/pr delivered and seem to be decent quality; but they are 6x8s and absolutely will not fit in the stock housings/spacers with any amount of modification. Sound Mekanix to the rescue with their 18mm pvc cnc'd spacers (about 25$/pr delivered). 18mm is nearly identical to stock and there is no issue with window glass interference with these speakers. Sound Mekanix also has mdf spacers for less than half the cost, but water can get into the door and break that material down. I drilled the four 1/8" holes and added 1.5" number 10 stainless steel sheet metal screws for the final product: jpg images image the pvc spacers did need a VERY SLIGHT radius placed on the ends where the door sheet metal curves up... see the second pic. took 10 seconds on the grinder or even with a file. I used the same speakers in the rear but the speaker structure required about 3/32" of material removed around the entire circumference. that was a pita! while there I noticed my sound dampening material (tar with aluminized backing) was falling down/off. i applied some butal sealant from a tube/gun and used my Dynamat installation roller to make a good bond. Worked perfectly! Stereo sounds nearly as good as new (I imagine) for about 135$ (louder than the wind noise now at least ). I also added an aux input circuit to the OEM stereo so I can use the 3.5mm jack to play music from my phone.