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I replaced the switch on mine a while ago and I do vaguely remember having to screw around with the wiring to make it reach. Just bending, I don't think I had to splice anything. Worst case, yeah, you should have enough wire from the old switch to extend the harness. Good luck!

The usual test for the injectors themselves is to rig up a fuel pressure tester, pressurize the system (cycle the key to run the pump), then turn it back off and see how long it holds pressure. If an injector is leaking, it should drop pretty quick. I don't know if the R50 has the shrader valve on the fuel rail so you can easily hook up a pressure tester. If not you'll have to unhook the fuel line somewhere and tee in the tester. I would also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator, cycle the key, and make sure fuel doesn't come pissing out. If it was I think you'd have noticed symptoms other than the smell, though.

Using only 4 connection points should help accomodate the rocker in the roof/rails. If you use more, you’ll have to have different heights. I have 8 attachment points, which is arguably too many as you want the roof to be able to flex & you probably want your attachment points to give before the rails or your roof. I want to elevate my rack about 1.5cm using some small aluminum towers but each pair of towers needs to be a different height as the curvature is asymmetric. Another FYI, you might want a sloped front to decrease wind resistance to mitigate the effect on your mpg. Also, that box front is likely going to create alot of wind noise. Finally, consider an amber light bar.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] windshield LED bar was essentially only usable at low speed due to all the hood light reflection. He then redid it with an amber lens and it’s a world different. It still casts tons of light but isn’t bothersome to the driver & even okay to have in your rear view mirror. All the while, bright enough that I was essentially using it to see myself when he was ahead of me. Totally convinced me to go amber in the future.

Spent a couple hours this afternoon removing all of the electrical add ons and wiring. I thought the PO removed his Sub, but evidently he removed the rear speakers as well and lefts a heap of frustratingly poor wiring routed inside the quarter panels. Also removed the air horn that was hanging under the bullbar. What a mess!

Great travelogue! Love that particular two-tone combo with the body-coloured flares—wish we got those in North America too. Totally singular, definitely a head-turner for anyone with even a passing interest in trucks, especially as the years tick past! Great you were able to get it back and give it a good home.

400km trip each way made for a long day. Just after fueling up for the drive home: Some Silo art we stopped to admire on the way home, this is only about a month or so old and has been on our list (Silo art is a big thing over here, we have the "Silo art trail" which brings a lot of tourism into small dying towns. Annnnnnnd Safely back home. Car ran great, wound the old Z24 right up in the back roads and even overtook several cars! It's basically the same shape as when I had it except the wheels have been changed out for a smaller set, the gearbox is a bit noisy, some of the interior plastics are a bit knocked around and the wiring for the stereo has been hacked (PO had a sub in the back, obviously ripped it out in a hurry). Overall I am thrilled to have it back, but probably paid a premium for my sentimental attachment. Updates soon, goes in for inspection next Friday! FGF

Finally got this installed today after weeks of coordinating shipments and waiting. One of the junkyard L brackets was bent so I had to enlist a body shop's help, but dodgy corner bolts aside I'm pretty happy with the outcome. It'll eventually need paint to match, but for anyone who tackles this in the future, here's how it was all sourced: Rock Auto still has the black '93-'95 bumper face bar and end caps (all non-OEM) as of early 2021. The face bar is cheaply made and somewhat poorly stamped (didn't perfectly line up with the brackets), and arrived scuffed; reading through Amazon reviews it seems that's par for the course. I found the plastic bumper inserts and indicator lights on eBay, also new. Seems Nissan changed the plugs on the indicators between generations, so these had to be spliced with the wiring from my old '87 indicators, but that was minor. All of these parts arrived without brackets and bolts, so it was off to the junkyard for those! These came from a Pick n Pull unit in Calgary. And that's it! Now to find a new hood... j

Got the old spare tire dismounted, bead blasted the barrel and the backside left the chrome intact Applied a base coat of signal white, put down a powdercoat of glowbee clear, laid down the template then sprayed the rest of the backside with ink black, peeled off the decal then finally baked on a gloss clear over everything, now i’m polishing the chrome up, only 4 rims to go The entire inside of the rim is somewhat illuminated from the glow, it’s pretty sexy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emoji22]You people with your clean garages sicken me! [emoji1785]

Alrighty, how to wrap this up?? In a nut shell, it cost me about $380 to fix and all I did was replace one injector and the fuel filter. The resistance call out of the injectors is 10-14 ohms @ 75 degrees. I checked injectors 1 & 3 and got 34 ohms and 12 ohms. I started the vehicle (it ran rough), let it warm up,then sit for 10 minutes for everything to heat up and rechecked the injectors. Infinite resistance on injector #1 and 14 ohms for #3. For kicks I checked the wiring harness for proper voltage and no problems there. On line I could find rebuilt injectors for $50 but they didn't specify the color code, so I wasn't going to use them. I found some Beck/Arnly injectors of the correct color (black for mine) for $95 new but I really didn't want 1 new and 5 old injectors (silly perhaps) so I bought a set of 6 used injectors along with the fuel rails from this place http://www.ninfiniti.com/ for $200 shipped to my door. Another $125 for a decent OBD2 reader (buy a $50 unit or a $300+ unit, don't waste money on a midgrade one) and another $50 for a full set of new seals and a fuel filter from RockAuto. The car runs like a champ, the best since we have owned it thanks to the full tune up. The faulty injector was failing intermittently when hot, how annoying is that?? I now have spare black injectors with full seal kits that I'm willing to sell at a good price. PM me or check in the Classifieds, and Thank You to everyone who helped!! B