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Finally found a tire carrier last week after searching for a while. This thread made it a lot less daunting but man that was still one of the most tedious things I've done on the truck. I'd definitely recommend making a template for the latch hardware off the donor vehicle if possible, I didn't do this and was kicking myself for it. My bumper support is pretty mangled though and I'm missing all the plastic fasteners so it's not surprising it didn't make the best template lol. I welded rather than riveted the reinforcement piece. Feels real solid! Had to make some relief cuts on the underside and bend it ever so slightly to match the curve of the truck. Installed I'll be spacing out the mount and raising it 2" asap as I don't like how low the 33 sits, thanks hawairish for the idea (and for starting this whole thread!). And thanks to everyone else in this thread, couldn't have done it otherwise!

I have a 3”SFD that’s been waiting for install since February- probably will get done in the spring. I put in the springs to match that lift - right now I have significant rake. I haven’t updated my rear sway links yet. Top out is rare but has been occurring on some of the rougher trails. These 5100s are from[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] who lent them to me as a placeholder until we get the SFD on & determine the correct 5165.

Make sure you’ve read about & know the differences in the strut top hat - you need that spacer. The OEM one is welded on, most aftermarket are not. You will be very impressed with these new clamshell spring compressors - they work great. The notches on the bottom spring seat and the top spring seat must be aligned as shown. Note that the side of the strut shown in the photo is the inboard (engine-facing) side. When reinstalling the struts, orient the "L" or "R" on the strut insulator (aka "top hat") so that the "L" lines up with the notches for the left strut, and the "R" lines up with the notches for the right strut. [XPLORx4] Finally, I’m not sure with that spring set but you may need to lengthen your rear brake line. Extending the breather never hurts but Nissan did a good job of tucking it right under the cargo area floor & it will still reach fine, even with the Britpart NRC9448 springs. It’s on my ToDo list but really, I’m very unlikely to get that deep - it’s really up there on mine.

Had some fun with the truck this weekend!

Use the img /img tag (add brackets around "img" and "/img"). Put the url of the jpg source between the tags.

I’ll tag it as yours in the future. It’s very handy & I’ve sent it to many members who were very happy to have it.

Here is the latest update, folks: replaced the exhaust system from headers back. Converted to a 2.5 piping. I did 2.5" because I would someday like to rebuild/turbo the engine (wishful thinking). Overall, it works well and sounds good. I'd definitely do things differently though (and eventually will). Photobucket said I don't have access to host any more, so hopefully I can upload the pictures. Please let me know if these don't show up. Also, personal update: I have enlisted in the USAF, so I will most likely not be on here for quite some time. Wish me luck! Used 2.5 Walker 49049 tubing (worked well for mild steel, and was fairly thick-walled), Walker (36516) 3/8" hangers, Waterwich 2" exhaust V-clamps (to connect header collector to 'y' pipe), Ledaut M18X1.5 Oxygen sensor bung, MagnaFlow 10416 Muffler (ended up replacing this with Flowmaster Super 10 Series 842515 because it was too loud), Ebay Exhaust Headers (DO NOT USE, THESE WERE ABSOLUTE GARBAGE), Titanium M8x25 bolts (expensive, but worth it), Hedman ball/joint connectors and an old tip that was lying around the garage. I apparently need to buy a lottery ticket, because I only had to extract one broken stud. I guess this is the kind of weld that you should expect from ebay headers. Not a great picture, but you can see the little pinholes all the way around the EGR inlet welds. Good thing I know how to thoroughly and unprofessionally pack a bunch of slag and weld beads around this crap. ? Again, I cannot stress enough: DO NOT BUY THESE EBAY HEADERS. YOU ARE IN FOR A WORLD OF ANNOYANCE. While I had the plenum off (valve cover gasket replacements), I decided to spruce it up a bit... Also, new roof rack! Tango, to answer your question: it's just a 3" body lift. I will eventually put on a suspension lift (I will most likely just buy through 4x4parts.com, as they have a pretty schwanky kit for about $1100. I've heard that many people just do the torsion bar retorque and the jeep spring lift, but I want to make sure my control arms can handle the lift. I've heard some people running 33s with a 3" BL, but I do not recommend. My 32's are about all that I can stuff under mine. Once I go with the suspension lift, I will most likely upgrade to 33s (or bigger, if I do a powertrain swap). The rest of the driveline/powertrain is all stock.

Here is a before picture.

If you've never done this, you might want to scan over my blog posts about doing it. If you've done similar suspension work, then probably not worth reading. I skimmed it again since it's been so many years ago trying to remember any unique tools. My tools are somewhere between not mechanic level but more than your average occasional backyard wrencher. I use a torque wrench on everything out of personal preference, so a 1/2 torque wrench and breaker bar would be recommended. Personally I haven't used the better spring compressors. But after trying one of the fork spring compressors on the AC 2" lift springs, they are so ridiculously stiff, I wouldn't even consider trying to reassemble them myself. I guess I would if I bought a shop press, which is what my Mechanic ended up using after NTB assembled them wrong for me the first time. http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2007/12/installing-suspension-lift-on-my-2001.html http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/front-suspension-change-on-2001-nissan.html http://colinnwn.blogspot.com/2009/06/rear-suspension-change-on-2001-nissan.html

I have to say thanks for all the people who contribute (or contributed) to this community. This REALLYYYY helps because there isn't much pathy content on Youtube. Thank you all who made NPORA possible and thank y'all who are helping me out with my questions. I think Im here to stay....?

I opened the light, removed the old clear lens and had new amber lenses cut to match. Coatings and tints just dont create correct hue and richness of color. I tried both