Leaderboard

+1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.

Problem is the R50 is a unibody. There isn't a separate frame like the pickup and the WDs. You have the subframe, but the body is a structural part and the struts are bolted to the body. Generally, the R50 just doesn't have the value to make the expense of fixing the body structure properly worth while when wrecked like that. My daughter's 18 Versa was totaled and all the damage was in front of the front doors and windshield. The engine and trans were ok and even the windshield was unbroken.

I totally agree, given there is no problem with the frame or anything major under the hood. Especially if you didnt have problems with the vehicle prior. I mean these trucks are great, I have a 97 and they just keep going and I'd hate to get rid of it. Most of those body parts can be purchased aftermarket and relatively cheap such as the bumper cover and the metal bumper above that. Lights are easy to find at the junkyards as well as the fender and hood. I have seen that hood around a 100 aftermarket and fender cheaper. From that pic though it looks like the radiator is gone also. I'm pretty certain, not sure what your budget is, but if you can do majority of the repairs it could be about a 1000 or even less. At the end of the day at least you weren't hurt. If you dont mind me asking, how'd it happen? did you get rid of it yet?

If the frame is OK, just go to a JY and purchase a front clip and bolt in on. You can straighten the inner fender parts Close enough to bolt the new metal on using scissor/bottle jacks and a piece of wood 4x4. We have done it many times. Yup, when you pop the hood you can look at the inner fender and tell it's been wrecked before, but NOT from the outside. Just did this for a neighbors PU truck a while back.

It's really straightforward. Once you get the skidplate off it's pretty obvious what hose goes where

Probably doesn't even matter all that much... just get all the air out!

My guess to why its written in reverse order is because the vehicle is an import and made originally with the RHD for the Japan market. So if that were the case, LR Would be the Farthest from the Master Cylinder. Perhaps some things got lost in translation for North American Manuals with LHD vehicles.....

Traditional is the general rule of thumb but our FSMs actually DO state LSV first (when applicable) the LR-RR-LF-RF. Trust me it's fresh in my head from attempting to explain it to someone (even posting a pic I personally took out of my FSM of the directions and on my own checked a bleed sequence book printed by Wagner AND checked Mitchel OnDemand). On a RHD truck though it may be reversed to RR-LR-RF-LF due to the master cyl. being on the opposite side of te firewall. Do I know why it's backwards from normal order? Nope, all I can do is repeat what has been written as correct.