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Did you try the first hit on any search engine? https://www.pathmakerproductions.com/shop/npora-club-classic-decal/

XPLORx4's original instructions are the easiest and quickest solution, and this is correctable in a few minutes. Follow his instructions above, except please also disconnect the battery since you're potentially dealing with the airbag due to the clock spring. You are looking for this steering linkage: Loosen the bolt in green and completely remove the lower bolt as shown. Then you can collapse the link to disconnect it from steering rack (if you need the link to collapse more, remove the bolt in green). Go back inside the truck, gently rotate the steering wheel back into the correct position, and wrap the seatbelt through it to keep it from spinning. Back under the truck, avoid rotating the link any more than necessary (the seatbelt will allow some movement), align the lower part of the link and extend it back onto the steering spline. Reinstall and tighten the bolts. Hopefully the direction you correct the steering wheel is in the correct damage as to not damage the clock spring, as mentioned previously. Rotate it slowly and gently. Stop at any hesitation.

https://imgur.com/a/Hreuvfn

To be honest, I would stay away from the universal style sensor. The direct fit costs a bit more, but is more reliable. I have seen a lot of issues with the cut and splice sensors in OBD2 vehicles. Bank 1 sensor 2 is the down stream or rear (after catalyst) sensor on the right (passenger) side. It is entirely possible that the wires on your existing one have rubbed against an edge somewhere along the way and is what is throwing your codes.

The SE rack is riddled with challenges in general, but I can easily see a flat rack solving your problem there...and it'd be far easier than lifting a tire another foot higher to get into a basket, and really would keep everything very low. I'm hoping to be able to supply some brackets for DIY racks once we've got these racks ready for show-and-tell. I'm expecting the remainder of my hardware tomorrow, so I should have mine finished by week's end, and hopefully Rockit's too if I can get everything mailed out tomorrow. The racks are pretty much constructed as standalones, so it's just a matter of attaching them to the OE rails. For now I'm using 3/16" steel plate, but aluminum would be the way to go. We're also doing a lot of countersunk plates to really keep the looks clean.

I always liked some of the Rola units, but without some sort of lower crossbars or mounting options, they always looked goofy sitting above the OE crossbars. Beyond that, I'm not much help for alternative basket options. However, if you're looking for a lower profile "base rack" design with a ton of mounting provisions, consider some of the aluminum extrusion racks out there. They're pricey, and while some probably won't even fit our trucks without custom brackets, Prinsu universal racks (https://prinsudesignstudio.com/category/universal-top-racks/) and Smittybilt Adjust-a-Mount brackets (https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-AM-4-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00AQFE8BG) might be a viable option...albeit a $900 one, after tax, shipping, and some additional hardware. To that extent, my buddy @Rockit and I are in the process of making our own base racks out of extrusions that are made-to-order (cut-to-length and machined for assembly). I was planning to start a new thread on the topic when both racks were complete, but maybe some info here/now might spark some ideas. Cost-wise, we're also well under half the cost of the Prinsu setup, with a result that'll fit our exact needs. These slotted extrusions are great because you can mount practically anything, anywhere, and there are already a bunch of off-the-shelf accessories for Rotopax, Hi-Lifts, etc (Prinsu has a full line-up of them). I'm fabbing up all our mounting and accessory brackets, like awning mounts and lighting tabs, but also have some ideas for other items. But these racks are far more versatile options than any basket I can think of. They're also lightweight, extremely strong, and corrosion resistant. Cost is a little higher than an off-the-shelf basket might be, but the versatility makes it worth it. For Rockit's QX4, we're doing a 50"L x 42"W x 2"H rack using 2"x1" and 1"x1" quarter-round extrusions, with the LH side being 72"L for full awning support, like so: I made some brackets that'll get the rack about 1" off the center of the roof (the height varies because of the curvatures F/R and L/R on the roof), and around 1.5" at the corners. The brackets are also slotted so the rack can be raised another inch if we need clearance anywhere, or to level it out: Since I have an SE roof rack, mine will be a drop-in rack that's 52"L x 36", and uses 2"x1" and 1"x1" extrusions:

Nice! I’ve spent some time hiking and camping around the Snoqualmie pass. If there is ever a PNW meetup be sure to keep me in the loop! And I guess I missed that in the link. Good catch.

When you installed the rack, there was a short splined shaft sticking out the top of it. Onto this short shaft you attached the linkage from the steering box. It is this linkage that needs to be reindexed. It’s probably off by two splines. Once you have reindexed the linkage you can adjust the toe at the tie rods ends to center the steering wheel.

When you replaced the rack did you lock the steering wheel? 108 degrees off is a lot. You are at risk of breaking the clock spring. It is not possible to center the steering wheel with tie rod alignment adjustments only. What you will need to do is re-index the splines from the steering link to the rack. First, steer so the wheels are straight. Remove the key and lock the steering wheel. Loosen and unmesh the splined shaft on the rack from the steering linkage. Next, insert key and unlock the steering wheel and center it. Remove the key and lock the wheel again. Now remesh the splines on the steering linkage and tighten everything back up