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Just Lifted

@Sharar, welcome to the forum. A few things come to mind: Have you tried things without the new bulbs installed, or with the old bulbs re-installed? To confirm, the 4wd light is on but the truck doesn't engage 4wd? Have you been able to definitively confirm if it is or isn't in 4wd? How's your technical aptitude, or willingness to learn? Factory Service Manuals (FSM) are available online, for free, and are an extremely valuable resource. Not talking Haynes/Chilton, but the real Nissan Dealership stuff. Manuals found here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Specifically, look at the Transfer chapter (https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/2003/tf.pdf). Your "All-Mode" system is ATX14A, and there's a self-diagnostic mode described on TS-62. If the dealer inspected the solenoid and it functions fine, you should still confirm if that returns a diagnostic code. Keep in mind many diagnostic codes don't indicate a problem with a specific part, but part of the system pertaining to the part. The All-Mode system uses numerous inputs. Re-iterating my first question, if you have a known change to the system (bulbs), revert that and re-test. Hopefully it's something trivial, but if it working fine before modifying the switch, then I'd be starting with the switch.

@mjotrainbrain encouraged me to post this video. There seems to be no simple guides to lift kits, and the difference between spacers and springs, especially in how they affect the front suspension. While I'm no suspension expert, and this video is missing alot, especially in terms of rear lift options (and I forgot to mention the possibility of AC spring top-out, though I haven't had any issues with it myself), here's a small introduction into the lift methods available, as well as the brands that sell them, and an attempt at explaining why spacer lifts affect the suspension geometry different. If there's any info in here thats technically incorrect, feel free to point it out. Im sure there's stuff missing, so feel free to comment. Thanks!

Good luck brother Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you replaced the bulbs, did you replace them with the stock type (I'm assuming they're incandescent, if they're replaceable) or with LEDs? LED bulbs cause weird issues in some circuits. If that's what you did, I'd try incandescent bulbs first--and while you're in there, make sure you got everything buttoned up properly the last time (all the plugs fully seated and all that). I'm not surprised the dealer tech said to ditch it. They're used to working on much newer stuff, and likely regard your '03 as a dinosaur. With their labor rates, the price of having them try and figure it out would get silly quick, especially if they start firing the parts cannon. The manual Hawairish linked is your best bet. Good luck and let us know how it goes! The later manuals tend to be heavy on the "press this button on the diagnostic tool you don't have, now press this button," but there's usually at least a circuit diagram to get you started. My dad took his Tundra in with parking lights that wouldn't turn off (probably a bad BCM). Toyota quoted something ridiculous to diagnose and repair, so he drilled a hole in the front license plate and installed a battery cutoff switch from the auto parts store. Park, turn the battery off, lights turn off. Fixed.

Haha haha! I actually thought about washing it too! [emoji38] Maybe if there's enough time tomorrow, but it won't matter much since Friday she'll be back on the beach, getting all salty & sandy and hopefully covered in fish blood & scales!! Sent from my Mobile Communications Device

Don’t forget to post a pic when you get it done! Can’t wait to do mine.

PathyDude17, excellent job on making this great video to explain the different methods to lift the INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION of the R50 without installing a drop-bracket lift or “subframe drop (SFD) lift”. Thank you!! I wish that someone had posted this info 10 years ago to spare the hassles and numerous debates over CV axle angles, why they do or do not break, what spacers do, and what the purpose of each OME spring is. I would like to add that I had a custom spring manufacturer install 2” lift springs in my Pathfinder in 1999, long before AC even sold stuff for R50’s. I have never used spacers (which weren’t even available back then anyway). My Pathy has almost 209k miles on it now. I would guess it has somewhere between 8,000 to 10,000 actual off-road miles on it, most of that on very severe rocky terrain in which tires frequently become airborne. In 20 years of off-roading, I have never grenaded a CV joint. The broken CV joint phenomenon started occurring after the introduction of spacer lifts. Granted, there are side-effects of using 2” lift coil springs, primarily “topping out” the strut, which occurs because the “at rest” position of the strut is closer to its maximum extension, allowing medium-size road irregularities, driveway humps, speed bumps, etc to cause the strut to max out more easily. The associated loud “thunk” can be disconcerting to the uninformed R50 occupant. Note again that in 20 years and over 200k miles, I have never experienced a suspension related failure due to topping out. I hope the video helps all viewers make better informed decisions on how to lift the R50 FRONT suspension.

Moved to the FAQ section and pinned. This video should be a great resource for anybody interested in lifting their R50!