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Looks like you've gotten some clarification on the splined parts. The same Pathfinder ratios were in Frontiers and Xterras, with the exception of select 99-00 KC Frontiers (31-spline). 31-spline HG43 and HG46 ratios are slightly different from 33-spline versions, but the carrier prevents use in our trucks anyway unless you want to convert to 31-spline. You won't find many 4.363's in Xterras because they were only in 00-01 XE V6 models, and for 01 only in XE V6 MT models. Probably not very common. Whereabouts in AZ are you? If you can find any 33-spline LSD, I have two 4.363-geared pumpkins in my collection and could set them up for you. (Fact is, I'm already sitting on 2 re-packed LSDs, but they are reserved for my homies.) I've been meaning to hit a JY around here anyway to pull some 33-spline axle shafts to cut up to make a test tool for confirming numbers on them, which means I could also pull it apart and see if we can bump the numbers on it a little with the spare friction plates and discs I have. Just a thought. @Mr_Reverse No lunchbox locker options for us 33-spliners, unfortunately. Some time ago (and probably still to this day), the Lock Right kept showing fitment in 31- and 33-spline carriers, but we were able to debunk its use in 33-spline open diffs, mainly because the type of carrier they fit into (2-piece/4-pinion) never existed in 33-spline applications (1-piece/2-pinion). Even then, the side gear cuts between the 31- and 33-spline carriers are very different...31-spline more chiseled, 33-spline more rounded. I did do a write up on how to convert to 31-spline, and also how to use a 31-spline Patrol lunchbox locker into a 33-spline open carrier...but that's as close as we're getting to lunchbox locker in our trucks. (And at that rate, just pony up for an air or e-locker.)

Removing the subframe is probably the hardest part of the whole SAS process... Took a few hours just to remove!\ Burned in the Rail reinforcements and the new rail mounted motor mounts. Managed to get the motor off the cherry picker in one day. pretty good pace i think

That quote is probably what I'd expect a shop to charge for those items. Does that make it a good deal? No, probably not, unless you can't do the work. But, they have a business to run and that's their costs. Could you do the job yourself for less? Absolutely! Not sure of any issues getting parts from Rock Auto in CAN, but they've got a good selection and great prices. (Others will complain about RA, but I've had zero issues with things from them). USD wise, you can get every part those shops mentioned for under $200 USD. But if you can turn a wrench, jobs like this are a breeze to diagnose and repair. Like many, I'm skeptical of mechanic assessments, especially when they start suggesting things that have nothing to do with your visit, and it's accompanied by additional services and labor on top. The rest of my skepticism comes from "proof" of a condition or test. For instance, they pressure checked your steering pump; the test requires putting a pressure gauge inline to the hoses. Do you see signs of ATF or clean-up around the steering lines fittings? Did they introduce any leaks by reusing the crush washers on the lines? I mean, are you sure they checked the pressure? Did they give you any pressure numbers? Did they tell you what the pressure specs are for the pump? Without any of that proof, I'd be skeptical the test was even done, and that'd be the last time I visited that shop. What timing convention are they using to determine lifespan on tie rods? Changing outer tie rods takes 20 minutes for both, and unless they took things apart, it's unlikely they could determine if both TREs were ready for replacement. Unless they're rattling loose, or showing physical damage, they probably don't need replacement. A few simple measurements before doing the work also reduces, if not prevents, the need to do an alignment (especially if there wasn't already a need for an alignment). But, sorry for the tangent...let's talk about the issue. Steering squealing can usually be caused by worn belts. Check the belt for excessive fraying or smoothness. Check the tension on the belt between pulleys. If it feels loose, adjust the tensioner (not sure on the VG if this is integrated into the pump or a separate pulley). Replace the belts if it's time. Also check the pulleys for worn faces (where the belt contacts the pulley), but especially check the bearings. I've had a idler bearing on my power steering grenade on me before; it was preceded by squealing that got progressively worse before it gave in. Best way to check things is to pull the belt and rotate the pulleys by hand to feel for any hesitation. But also check for any play (should be none). I've dealt with a lot of squealing on my 98 Frontier in the past, and it's almost always come down to the belt being either loose or worn, with the exploding bearing exception above. The last time I dealt with odd squealing was on a buddy's 02 Pathfinder. The high pressure hose had a tiny leak by the upper hose crimp that was only really noticeable under hard/quick steering wheel motions. Inspect the hose for abnormal flexing as the pressure increases. A new hose resolved that issue.

Had some fun last weekend in the mountains

If you’ve already got something going on creating excessive heat beyond what the radiator was spec’d to remove, or like what was said above about the fan clutch, you would want to fix that first. I experience excessive heat buildup, I assume from friction of a worn engine/oil pump and I ended up installing an electric radiator fan as a countermeasure. Before that I installed a trans cooler and bypassed the one integrated in the radiator. I did notice that coolant temps were slower to rise after the external cooler but continued to rise indefinitely. Like was said above, the integrated trans cooler just doesn’t have the surface area to overcome the much much larger surface area of the radiator core. Turning the heater on to bring coolant temps down works because that heat exchanger is quite big.

Sounds like you were tapped into the dimmer switch when you were getting 5 volts, I'm pretty sure it uses the ground. Most of the switches and stock head unit are hooked up to it. I'm using one of those usb cigarette lighter voltmeter things and really like it. Lot easier to install than a hard wired one lol.

While not a bad idea to upgrade, it’s worth noting I ran 750w of forward lighting with a stock alternator & an Optima Red Top for over a decade with no problems. (I would, however, recommend a deep cycle AGM battery like an Odyssey or Northstar/X2 Power - avoid Optima these days - just not the battery they used to be).

Depends on your particular needs. If all you're doing is some extra lighting, the stock alt is fine, maybe a decent battery upgrade would be advised, depending on how many watts you're drawing. If you want to run you SMD dual magnet 18" sub woofer with 5000 watts to each voice coil, you're gonna need that 270amp alt, maybe 2. lol -Kyle

Came out better than I thought

Awesome... great build

Snohomish county in Washington is apparently a haven for car thieves. Now my 1988 Pathfinder has been stolen, partially stripped and damaged. I got it back, but it was no longer drivable. The radiator was blown apart and a bunch of wiring was torn out of engine compartment. I had insurance coverage through state farm, but they are doing all they can to get out of paying for the claim. They sent Kim Robinson to talk with me about the claim this week, but it was really a 2 hour interrogation and not at all intended to resolve the claim. I was insuring a lot through State Farm until that meeting. My monthly premiums were over $400 for my Carver Yacht, 2006 Truck, the Pathfinder, and renters insurance. Now everything has been moved to Progressive and Metro Mile Insurance companies. She asked me stuff like how long I worked for my employer, why I chose to not insure some of my vehicles for periods of time. Why I owned some vehicles that I didnt drive daily. Essentially, she was convinced I am trying to do something shady and she is on a fishing expedition to find out what exactly.