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A little more lift over SFD height is fine, and in fact what I recommend. It's a trade-off for ground clearance over OE geometry. As for bumpers, I'd like to. It's a long term plan @TowndawgR50 and I have discussed. This may delay getting some of the bumper brackets out from my other thread; seems more convenient to have built, DIY, and builder parts options. The near term focus is SFDs, though.

All great points! Yes, those numbers are bench-test specs, and the value can increase under load due to the spider gear push-out. Yeah, I don't get why the numbers were so diluted for the 03-04. Stability controls would be a good guess, but I'm not even sure many of the vehicle had anything beyond ABS. Of the R50s I've seen with VDC (literally one), it didn't even have the LSD. I think Nissan just got a good deal on those spacers in the units, which consumed the space of 4 pieces in the clutch pack, and still allowed them to market the option. Good point about the fluid. Yes, an additive or LSD-safe gear oil is required. Just realizing I omitted specs from the 99-00.5 Frontier for some reason. MY99-00.0 trucks were 144-178 ft-lbs, then 00.5 went to 138-180 ft-lbs. But yes, both 00.5-02 Frontier and 00-02 Xterra LSD diffs make great swap options because they had the better numbers and because they used the same gear ratios, specifically 4.363 (48:11) and 4.636 (51:11) options, not the 4.375 (35:8) and 4.625 (67:8) options found on older Nissans. You can swap the entire 3rd member; completely bolt on. I've actually been sitting on my re-packed LSD for a while now, and re-acquired the other re-packed unit just the other week. Both eventually replaced by lockers, but I really enjoyed having it. Lokka + LSD made for a great combo. I suppose it's time to find those units new homes...

You've got it. The clutch pack can only hold so much before it slips. The breakaway numbers in Hawairish's table above are how much torque the diff is supposed to hold when bench-tested (one axle held, torque wrench on the other). That number may improve a little under load as the spider gears push out against the clutches, but if you've got a wheel off the ground, you probably won't have enough load to make a difference. Apparently you can use the parking brake to add load and make the clutches grab a little better if you're struggling. I knew the later models were de-tuned, but I didn't realize it was that bad! '03-'04 got screwed! I'm guessing the limited slip didn't play nice with stability control. I've heard of the LSD making chattering noises if it was refilled with the wrong fluid. It's supposed to run oil with a friction modifier to keep the clutches happy (that's why it says LSD oil only on the sticker). Without that, the clutches bind up, make noise, and have a bad time in general. The only noise I've noted from my rear end was a faint hiss that I thought might be the sound of the clutches slipping, but I'm not certain it wasn't just the wheels slipping in the snow that I was stuck in at the time. If you're looking for an easy swap to a better LSD, the early Xterra rear third member is supposed to bolt right in. CJ Franger on the NPORA facebook page (probably on here as well, not sure what his screen name is) put one in his R50 a while ago. Because it's a 3rd member style rear end, it's completely bolt-on without having to mess with gear lash or clutches, and it looks like it gives you more than double the breakaway torque of what you've got.

Almost done with the SAS

I'm curious about the noise. The LSD doesn't quite "engage" per se...whether straight-ahead or turning, the clutch pack is always under compression, but there is a change from no-friction to friction when making turns. Because there are also spider gears in the diff, any engagement sounds are might be attributed to those, and not so much the clutch pack (i.e., the "limited slip" part of LSD). I assembled this chart from FSM data when I repacked some LSDs a while ago: Pretty clear the R50 never got what other trucks got, and then Nissan dumbed everything down 03-04. Re-packing does require some work...and homework. Not so much adding shims but just increasing the friction for the clutch packs. This can be done by thickening the stack (replacing thinner pieces with thicker ones, or shims), by replacing pieces of one type with another, particularly in the case where similar parts are next to each other. For example, on 01-02 R50, a 2:9 ratio means that, those 2 friction discs are only in contact with 3 friction plates, at max, and the rest are just used for spacing (FP-FD-FP-FD-FP-FP-FP-FP-FP-FP-FP); all of the breakaway torque comes from the friction on those 10 pieces (5 per side). The 5:6 models had more than double the friction area, and consequently higher breakaway torques. However, you'd expect the 6:6 to have higher numbers, too, but the breakaway torque is also controlled by the nominal thickness of the pieces, plus any compression added by spring plates. That is to say the R50 LSDs used more thinner pieces, which would reduce stack compression and ultimately friction. In your real-world scenario, if you have an LSD and the tire is still spinning, that means the ground resistance on the tire that has traction is higher than the breakaway torque of the LSD. In that case, it behaves like an open diff because it's defeating the clutch pack and the spider gears (the "differential" of LSD) are allowing the excess torque to rotate the wheel with less traction.

Excellent, thanks. I'm good to go for now, I'll get rid of that last hanger and add this one back in the Spring.

Thank you very much! Thanks for help! Yesterday I, again, found in the manual the speed sensor - rear revolution.

I'm looking for a used set now. Maybe 35-40". Whatever comes across first.

Yes.... mine was still attached to the truck when mine came off. I tweaked the rear hanger a bit to get some clearance but ended up bolting a new chopped up piece to the original one and drilling two holes in the arm to get it to stay in place. I don't recall welding the two arms together but I may have do so later.

+1 to what the others have said. Sounds like the rear wheel on the other side was spinning. When you're in 4x, the front and rear driveshafts spin at the same rate. There's no differential in the transfer case to bias torque front or rear, so the front and rear diffs turn at the exact same rate. Each diff applies the same torque to both wheels on its axle--but if one wheel doesn't have enough traction, it spins and the other doesn't (the torque it takes to spin the wheel without traction is not enough to spin the wheel that does have traction and is trying to move the truck). If the truck is on uneven ground, it'll have less force on two wheels diagonal from each other (think of a four-legged bar stool on an uneven floor). If the suspension can't keep the wheels in good contact with the ground, those two unloaded wheels spin while the truck goes nowhere. Look where your tires are in your wheel wells, your driver's front is drooped way down (unloaded) and your driver's rear is stuffed into the wheel well. The passenger's front and driver's rear were supporting most of the truck's weight, so the other two had bugger-all traction and the truck wouldn't climb. If you don't have one already, you might try and track down a limited slip rear end (identified by an orange sticker next to the fill port that says LSD OIL ONLY). I like the limited slip in my '93, though it does have its limitations. IIRC the R50 LSD was toned down a little (probably because LSD makes it easier to make the rear end step out if you drive like a maniac. The LSD can be repacked to tighten it up. It's not as good as a locker but it's much better than an open diff IMO.

Judging by the angle of the pic and wheel well gap front vs. rear, that seems normal operation to me. The hill seems more gradual on the passenger side, so it shifted the truck's weight over to the driver's side, mostly towards the rear. The passenger rear tire would have the least amount of traction, and a rear open diff would allow that tire to spin freely. Since both front tires would have traction, they would also spin.

Hello all it’s me again. So I have some free time right now where I thought I would do a quick write up. So I’ll be going over how I installed my light bar into the bumper for a clean look and also without the use of a brush guard or other mounting bar.Then I’ll go over on how I installed amber lights into the grill to mimic what every 4runner does lol. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. So with the light bar I used a 30 inch china bar that is spot middle and floods on either side and unfortunately I do not know what brand it is as I got it on Ebay like 2 years ago. But the important part of the bar is how it mounts. Preferably you would need a light bar with a slim adjustable bracket that goes on the body of the light bar compared to the end mounting brackets. Next you need to remove the plastic front bumper cover to trim the “teeth” in the plastic bumper and cut a notch at the end of the plastic bumper as well as expose the steel crash bar. After cutting the “teeth” off and cutting a notch you’ll need to line up the light bar as centered as possible and perfectly perpendicular to the crash bar. I used a sharpie to mark the holes as well as used a straight edge and measuring tape to get it as close as possible. Drilling in the crash bar is not easy and takes some effort but is doable. After mounting the light bar go ahead and turn it on as this is the easiest to adjust the angle of the bar before putting the plastic cover on. After you do that you’re done! It took me several times to put the bumper back on and off to trim the plastic just a little bit at a time and as well as measuring. With this setup you get no hood glare (obviously) and also more of a “stealth” look without the addition of other mounting brackets. The only downside to this is that is removes your front plate bracket which could be a bad thing in your area depending on your front plate laws. I went ahead and just put my plate in windshield and I may relocate it up to the rack potentially. For the amber lights I used Grand General 77650 amber lights off amazon. I also went ahead and bought a 99 to 01 SE grill as I was tired of the LE grill of the pathy. When it arrived it was a silver color so I had to paint it black and I got it close enough with the original black on the truck. Then thanks to@TowndawgR50 and@RainGoat for light placement I then carefully dremeled out the back to cut a notch in so the lights could be more secure as the mesh wasn’t flat. After getting the right depth and width I went ahead and super glued the lights in and as well as zip tied it to the grill as an extra precaution. I then routed the wiring between the mesh so you can’t see it and I just tapped the wiring into the cigarette lighter fuse spot. So when I turn the key the lights come on and serve as my driving lights and as well as giving it more of a unique look. I tried plugging the tap into an empty slot but it didn’t work for some reason but when I put my CB radio tap in the same slot it worked so I don’t know if it needs a switch but I’m just gonna use the cigarette lighter for now. Since I was doing “light” mods I also went ahead and installed some clear corners as well. Also currently waiting for the emblem as Nissan changed it from a stick on to a bolt on but I think USPS lost it but that's another topic. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Finally had some free time so I just drove on some forest roads, and I low key like the moon dust grey [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

She is now running great except for this transmission issue still. Now is the transmission a 4 spd plus o/d or is 4th gear o/d? Plus I've got some pics of the rpms she's doing at highway speeds and I wish I could post them...