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I swiped a clock from a Q45. Used a air drill with sanding bits and just grinded the hole out. Used silicone to hold the clock in place. On the back of the clocks it shows you what wire is what it's embossed on-the-clock casing. Very easy to wire up. I made a template of the clock to use and trace the hole for cutting. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

Change of plans, will be doing philips loop/calico , over previously planned holy Jim trail California fires closed down holy Jim. I’ll also be posting pictures of the brackets hawairish fab’d up this weekend Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Summary list of parts used for this past weekend build with part #s - bilstein 5165’s #25-261400 - viair 485c stealth black - LR HD coils #NRC9448 - custom sway links (hawairish) - custom viair mounting bracket (hawairish) - custom fuse box bracket (hawairish) - (4) 8ft x 3/8 rubber hose (central pneumatics, harbor freight) - 5mm air tubing - 6mm air tubing (between air manifolds) - (2) quick connect coupler - 5 port 3 way air manifold block - 4 port 2 way air manifold block - HFS solenoid - Pressure switch On: 90psi Off: 120psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ8NJGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P.P5BbCKH2JHZ - ASME pressure valve 125psi - (3) 1/8 90degree push to connect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7X4QFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q8P5Bb7HYF8K4 - 30 amp fuse - viair air pressure gauge #90084 - Heart Horse 3 way carling switch #B01EFIZP2A Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

and their on...

Well...there's one caveat: no one's making SFDs. But, perhaps that'll change soon... The problem is that 2"-3" is no-man's land. You can do 3" of lift without an SFD, but shouldn't. The issue is that after around the 2.5" mark, your suspension articulation can cause the CVs to bind due to higher angles, which will eventually lead to breakage. You could buy lifetime-replacement CVs if you enjoy the work, but the purpose of the SFD is to restore those CVs angles to acceptable specs. Same is true for the steering/alignment and suspension.

BTW, you have an awesome name! Kind of sounds like Jack Reacher. And just to be clear-@hawairish advice totally trumps mine. He has an incredible amount of hands on experience.

They worked until my truck went to the graveyard. Now on my new one, I have my spacers instead of the stiffer coils and I don't need limiting straps anymore to eliminate strut top out... I might re-install them one my other pathfinder project (for trail only) that i'm about to start.. S.

Yea I spliced in to my running lights and of course you have a ground for the strip light. Very easy mod. Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

I didn’t like the Q50 either, but love my Q70. I also looked at the various QX models and didn’t like them either. The engine power, body style and everything seems to fit the Q70 size perfectly. It looks like the stretched or shrank it down to fit all the other models. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To elaborate on what mjotrainbrain said... to lift with springs changes all of the suspension geometry angles which affects all of the suspension attributes (bump steer and alignment for instance). And the limitation with this vehicle is the CV joint angles, which limit you to about 2.5" maximum. This also results in a suspension that has more compression than extension which causes another set of problems. When lifting by SFD, none of that is affected and the suspension can retain all of the stock characteristics while getting a lift. It's great. The only thing it doesn't improve is the ground clearance at the differentials, but that's the nature of the thing.... All in all, it's the better way to lift IMO.

+1 for FSM. The 1990 manual is available, but not from Nico. These guys have it. When Nico's archive went down a while back (Nissan's lawyers got bored or something) someone posted a link to that site, and I downloaded the '90 manual to hopefully fill in some of the things about my '93 missing from the '94/'95 manuals I downloaded from Nico. Luckily my computer remembered where I got it from because I sure didn't! The '93 manual on Nico isn't actually a service manual, unfortunately; it's more of a catch-all for snippets from other manuals, random tips, and Nissan recall and service bulletins labelled in what Google Translate tells me is Latvian. There is some good stuff in there if you're willing to wade through it, but yeah, it's not a service manual; the '94/'95 manuals are the oldest proper WD21 manuals Nico's got. I've sprayed down my engine bay at the self-serve car wash with no major issues, though I did get a little water in the power steering res once, so don't go too crazy with it.

Yep, what he said. They're not sealed units like some trucks, they're built more like trailer bearings, only they've got a lock ring held by a couple Phillips screws instead of a castle nut and a cotter pin. There's a special socket you can use for the lock ring that makes things easier. Good to know I'm not the only one finding them loose after a while!

I subscribed to him years ago and watch all of every video, even if it has nothing to do with a vehicle I own. He's really good at effective teaching. I've seen that his videos are used in auto tech classes a lot; if only he got a commission for it beyond whatever YouTube pays!

That’s great to hear. I’m also a kiwi but I live in Sweden. These trucks are hard to find up here with minimal rust so is love to keep it going Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

So after some long and hard thought I am not going to send her to the junk yard. She was my first 4 wheel drive and car I bought on my own (I'm 17 btw). I'm going to buy a rebuilt engine and throw it in. But while it is out I'm going to take my time and clean up the engine bay, go through the whole thing and replace whatever it needs. Also the most exciting part I'm going to get or build a SFD and install it while i have all the room I need. If anyone has the templates or measurements for a 4 inch SFD i will be very interested in buying them or if you willing throw them my way. wish me luck

The click/no start (at least in auto-trans models) is usually the ignition switch from what I've read. I recently had a slow cranking issue and a no click/no start that I thought was a worn-out starter, but the replacement did the same thing until I replaced the ignition switch as well. Unplug the signal wire for the starter (grey plug, attached to a bracket on the side of the starter or dangling nearby if the last person who had the starter out didn't have time to mess around with the stupid bracket) and can hook up a test lead to the side coming from the starter. If the engine cranks poorly on the ignition switch, but cranks properly when you touch the test wire to battery +, the solenoid isn't getting the power it needs from the switch. The switch itself (not the lock cylinder) is cheap and surprisingly easy to swap out. (You can also hotwire it right from the ignition switch by bridging the black/yellow and black/white wires, which may be easier than getting to the starter wiring, especially if the bracket's still there.) The hard starting once it is turning over does sound like an idle control issue, but I doubt the idle screw moved on its own. More likely an idle component isn't working for some reason. I solved a stalling-at-lights-once-warmed-up problem on mine by cleaning the plug for the IACV (tower-looking deal at the driver's rear of the motor) and re-bending the female pins a little because they were loose. You might also have a look at the plug for the other idle valve (the IACV-AAC), which is the one with the screw. I'm not sure why there are two idle valves, but there are. Also make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight. Doesn't sound like it's the starting issue but it's easy to check, and worth a look if the issue started when you swapped the battery.

I like the Led’s around your fog and turn signals. Tell us more? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those look super cool all lit up.

Dude! You're QX is looking great! I want to hear more about that Infiniti clock you installed and those headlights. First, let's talk about the clock. To me that clock is the symbol of an Infiniti. I would love to install a clock light that. How did you wire it up, how did you cut the console, how did you mount the clock?