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RainGoat, thank you for your support. Yeah dude, honestly I think I'm doing OK, generally but currently, for me, it's all the clutter and neglect, the house still remains in, 10 years after Dad passed. Im living here now and it makes me nuts. I believe myself to be pretty organized person ( bosses think so and now have me streamlining the day to day at work) and am fine so long as I have a plan. Talking to people lately has been helpful. This whole thing is on me (formally separated in Feb and an only child). so I'm taking any helping hand that's offered-not THAT stupid or proud-lol. I inherited Mom's deaf dog who is inconstinent (and CONSTANTLY underfoot) but have recently gained my b'dingo back from the ex. Shyloh is pretty and has no apparent brain. She's really my quantum of Solis. She's a 3-1/2 yo Carolina dog (North American dingo) who acts like a puppy, thinks she's tough and is afraid of shadows-keeps me laughing. Most days I'm not abusing herb or alcohol but I am smoking like a chimney which really Pisces me off cuz I was ready to quit before s#it went sideways. Was going to say, if able, gently talk to your parents and remind them that their collective accumulations may pose extra issues for you in the future. My old man kept all kinds of stuff and never used a lot of it and paperwork, Lord Jesus, give me strength, the papers me and my daughter went through AND shredded was staggering! Example: 1981 Reine Canada tax guide...I was at a loss for words and THATS not me. Took over a week but that being said, we DID find some real neat stuff. That's my bedroom now brand new, top to bottom. One day and one step atta time. Success on the alternator installation at 4:27 PM of Day 2. I will post my findings and exasperations very soon. Thanx for letting me ramble. Cheers, V.

Hi all: I have take the engine apart on my pathy to add the loctite to the power valve screws to avoid them getting sucked into the engine. A HUGE thank-you to my buddy Steve - without his experience from working on his Maxima and his help, I'd likely still have my finger stuck in a swirl valve.... A BIG - thank-you to all who posted about this issue to alert those of us not in the know.... Note to Mods: I /IMG tagged my pics from photobucket. If someone wants to upload and modify my post for posterity, cool. Can't guarantee my photobucket account forever of course... Details '02 Pathy LE 111,000km (~69,000 miles) Gaskets (4) ordered from dealer 16175-4w000 (throttle body) 14033-4w000 (right side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010A*) 14033-4w010 (left side, between upper and lower intake plenum also called 14010AA*) 14033-4w00A replaces 14032-4 (between lower intake plenum and intake manifold also called 14040E*) * (part numbers as shown on exploded view in the print-out given to me by dealership, dunno why they don't match the p/n on the packages... all gaskets fit perfect.) These cost me approx $72 CAN as the Nissan dealer cut me some slack on the tax. The last gasket is the most expensive, almost $50. If you were going to leave the lower intake plenum on the engine to do this job, you would not need this gasket. I personally think it worth while to remove the lower plenum, makes life easier, only 4 screws hold it on, no dropped screws inside the engine.. up to you though. Some people think that these gaskets can be re-used and you do not need new ones at all - probably true, but with my luck, I decided not to do it twice for $70 and got new ones. The following is my rough account of how I did the job, not every step is in here, but should give an overview. If you are a real noob to auto mechanics, this may be more involved than you want to try. Much harder than an oil change. Not nearly as hard as changing a transmission or even a clutch though. If an oil change is a 1 out of 10, and an engine rebuild is a 10 out of 10, this job is a 4 in my opinion. Quick Notes: Left and Right - refer to the side of the vehicle, so when I say left, I mean from the driver's perspective - just to be clear. I did not cut any factory tie straps!! They unclip from underneath if you squeeze the tabs together and then you can pop them back in later. Disconnect battery negative cable!!! This protects electronics. Remove plastic engine cover (2 nuts and a screw). Look in awe at all the bloody wires and hoses. Remove the *mounting bracket* for the accelerator cable and what I guess is the cable from the cruise to that go to the throttle body. I did not remove the the lock nuts at the cable end, just the mounting bracket (2 screws). Unclip the the cables from the plastic clips at the front of the engine. There should now be enough slack in the cable to move them toward the throttle body - the cable ends slide to the side out of the half round throttle body mounting points. Then flip the cable assy upside down and backward toward the battery - DO NOT kink these! Remove the brake vacuum line from the rear centre of the upper intake plenum. Remove the hose leading away from the evap valve on the upper intake plenum near the throttle body. Then remove the air intake hose. There is one mounting screw on the resonator box down low (in the following pic, the mounting point is visible just below and to the side of the master cylinder) to remove, plus 2 band clamps and a couple of hoses. This thing will be hard to get out, you will need to remove the hose from the throttle body end first and the twist and contort it out - watch the plastic box underneath doesn't get hung up stuff (it will). I did not remove the airbox. This would make life easier I bet, but I felt I could get by without the extra step. Then remove the hoses around the power valve vacuum actuator at the front left of the upper intake plenum. There are two brackets on the right side, rear of the upper intake, that are bolted to the lower intake (one has the mounting screw for the plastic cover). That one should be loosened and pulled back. They both need to come loose, so might as well do em both now. Unclip the two tie straps for the evap control valve @ back of throttle body. Disconnect two connectors at throttle body (throttle position switch and idle air control valve, brown is on top, but I think there is only one way to reconnect). I did not disconnect the coolant lines to the throttle body. I removed the 4 mounting bolts (hex key on a socket extension works best). and used some wire tied it off out of the way to the dip stick. Using the reverse of the torque tightening sequence from your manual, remove the 13 fasteners from the upper intake plenum, and them remove it. Carefull, it could get hung up on stuff. Put the bolts in a card a number them as they are different lengths and need to go back in the same spot! There are only 4 fasteners holding the lower intake in place - or so it would seem! There is secretly a hidden bracket on the right side back, between the firewall and the lower plenum. The right most bolt will require a short 12mm wrench to get at it. This was the hardest fastener to deal with. Then the the 4 main fastners can be removed in reverse tightening sequence order. Will continue in a reply post.....

That was the case for me too. I did a bunch of mods but never used 4WD at higher speeds other than crawling on trails, so I didn’t know there was a problem until later. One of the problems with a high CV angle is that the front end lifts a little bit under torque, which causes and even more severe angle for the axles to put up with. While not enough to bind, it’s still pushing the limits of their smoothest operating range. Thats a har one to troubleshoot though.

I wouldn't ignore it, I've read in the past that with the code the ignition will be retarded because the ecu thinks it is bad gas. I did the mod on top in the back of the engine in the, and got the 0325 code once after changing the plugs, must have jiggled the wire enough not to make contact. Anyway, in an emergency when I got the first 0325 I did the resistor trick in order to pass smog, then when I had time I did the top of the engine mod. If all else fails you could do the resistor trick like I did, if you search you should be able to find the value of the resistor - I don't remember it now it was a while back.

I lost my parents too, 5 years ago. I can tell you one thing for sure, drugs and alcohol work. That’s why we use them. I can tell you one more thing, drugs and alcohol can turn you into something you never imagined. Not telling you not to use them.. because I’ve been there but I will say that what you silence now will come back later compounded by lowered serotonin levels. My parents both drank themselves to death (cirrhosis) 6 months apart from each other. After my dad I went on a drug binge and almost got put in prison for a long time but Jesus literally saved me (whole other story). I did go to rehab though but unfortunately my mom died 5 months into the program and I snapped. I didn’t do anymore drugs but I got very very very mad at God. So mad that I was ready to go to hell over it.. so I got on my knees and prayed, but not to Him. I went far down that road but He pursued me anyway (another whole other story). He is so close to the one whose heart is broken. That’s when He shows Himself.. He is in the middle of the tornado to stand WITH YOU. Not to stop it from coming or to take it away, but to be your Friend in it because He really does love you. This life is a dark, broken, hurtful, train wreck, but He loves what He created. You call me if you need anything at all. Whatever I can do, I will do. Michael Greene 770-330-2173

Yup, somewhere near the middle of the front shaft. If you have manual hubs you can just grab the shaft and rotate until you find the zerk. If my memory is right it's directly behind a small crossmember so it's hard to get at. I only ever greased it twice so I don't remember exactly.

Okay. Based on your links I just ordered the ones from amazon. That's the map lights and dome lights. I ordered those previously from eBay and those were junk. I'm excited to have your super bright ones! I'll pick up a green, blue or red when I make up my mind on the color? lol thanks much dude! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be able to buy a fob for $17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KTJ9I46/?coliid=IM163KMC8BJ24&colid=2TXANA5SUZVXM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Programming the fob is free-you follow a simple set of instructions with the truck & fob. If you got a newly programmed chip in a key, that was a reasonable deal@~$100. Stealerships usually charge ~$200-250. If you get a flip key version, you can dig the chip out of your key & put it in the fob/flipkey.

Not that it solved the lock cylinder issue but remotes are super cheap & easy as pie to program. The expensive thing is the chip in your key for the ignition.

Installed Eyebolts for securing cargo. If I’m going on a trip where I’ll be off-road a lot, I like to throw a net over the cargo area to hold all the loose stuff down. My critically heavy items are camstrapped to the floor cargo tie downs, but the net just attaches to the fairly weak upper cargo points & the rear seat headrest posts if the rear seats are up. I’ve been wanting to do the cargo tie downs for 14 years. My thought was to simply use eye bolts where the machine screws anchor in the body. Those are M6x1.0 threads, however, and metric eye bolts, particularly in stainless or zinc, are quite difficult to find. Combined with a lack of motivation, this usually stopped me. When I had a time limit to solve an essentially identical problem in my Mom’s new 4Runner I was finally forced to get it done (admittedly, testing it on the Path first). The key was ridiculously obvious. I simply needed to rethread the frame bolts to 1/4” & I would have endless hardware options. Warning, this is an irreversible step. You can remove the metal arms or even fold them out-I just kept them folded for now. A slightly shortened spacer would recess the eye hook some, which I would prefer, but a hardware option wasn’t readily available to me. You could also use washers instead of a spacer. If you remove the metal arm entirely, you can use a single washer for a much more recessed eye bolt-though I think it then reaches the point of being too difficult to use (you also may want a shorter eye bolt). Anyway, here is the modification for anyone who is interested. Cargo Tie Downs: (2 above cargo window/2 in front of tonneau cover slot) Rethread M6x1.0 frame machine screw holes with a 1/4” tap. Spacer-Chrome Steel 0.5x0.25” [Everbuilt] 2 pack x2 Eyebolt-Stainless Steel 0.25” x 2” (6.3x50.8mm) 160#(72.5kg ) Working Load Limit [Everbuilt] SKU372941 2 pack x2

O.k. just wanted to say that this past weekend my good bud and I dove in ... we removed only the upper plenum and found very tight screws on my 04 LE . But we did our own Loctite blue on each one and put them back . I respect Bow Tied for his painstaking detail , but feel there were many ways to go around things to get to the screws . First we did not remove the Throttle body from the upper plenum ....rather left it attached and the coolant lines attached to it and merely just tilted the whole unit resting on the Throttle Body( TB) up in the air on the opposite side of the TB. We did remove the entire airbox previous to this by just disconnecting everything except that lower box and just jimmied it out of the place being careful not to get hooked on any wires or hoses . This saved lots of time ... we were done in less than 2 hours and even took a break to talk to some relatives that visted . We did use the torque specs from the FSM ... and used there tightening sequence .... but didn't replace any of the 2 gaskets from the Plenum housing ... but did use spray tack ...aerosol gasket seal ... on the old used gaskets which were very metallic or metalwrapped and in pristine condition ... I was am not trying to be cheap , and had purchased them but did not remove them from the box after considering how god they were when they came off . Anyway take your time and realize their seems to be a lot to remove ...but it was not a hard job .

Hey Bowtied, Just wanted to offer my thanks on an excellent guide. I wouldn't have attempted this fix without your guide. Couple of comments (I have an '03 SE Auto 4x4 with 75k miles): 1) My power valve screws were in tight and also had some gunk on them that we cleaned out prior to adding locktite. Not sure if they had been threadlocked or not at the factory, but they were not backed out of the valves at all. 2) My throttle body looks different than the one in your pics. On the backside of the throttle body (firewall side), there is what appears to be an electronic control module and there is no linkage on the frontside. Any idea what changes occurred between the '02 and '03? 3) I replaced my PCV valve while I had the manifolds off. The PCV valve in my engine (probably OEM) is threaded into the valve cover. If you search on rockauto.com (or another parts website), two types of PCV valves come up. One, the Fram version, just seems to plug in and is not threaded. This part did not look like the one that came out of my engine. The second type is threaded and costs 3-4x as much. However, there seem to be different versions of threaded PCV valve. The ACDelco variety does not fit. Any idea why different valves are showing up for the same engine? Again, thanks for a great post.

Thanks Gianni. ... But, then I notice that there are whole bunch more screws inside the intake manifold still on the bloody engine! I had done the power valves, but the valves underneath those are the swirl valves. ugh. I did not have the gaskets to remove the manifold and there was no way you could or would want to do the screws with it on the engine. Plus you'd have to mess with fuel lines. So, I did something that may have no effect at all, but thought it was worth a shot: I got an old toothbrush and sprayed it with carb cleaner liberally. My buddy Steve held the valves open with a soft handle of a hammer and I brushed the back side of the screws with carb cleaner and dried them with compressed air. I then put some blue loctite on the tip of a small clean flat blade screw driver and carefully dabbed it on the backside of the screws. Maybe that will all wash off, likley. but it is better than nothing in my mind. Oh - one other thing, changing plugs is easy when you are this far apart, I recommend it! Just remove the coil, one bolt, and then you have access to the plug. It is waaaay down inside the valve cover. The book calls for a .043" gap. My factory plugs measured .044 after ~69k miles, so I gapped the new ones to .042 and stuck 'em in - they should be good for another 69k I hope. Changing the plugs can be done another time, but you will be moving most of the same hoses and brackets and you will have to remove the throttle body to get to one of them, I think it is #4. Hope y'all found this thread useful. Ron

I did not remove the vacuum actuator itself as shown in this picture. The hose system underneath at the back disconnected earlier (shown now to help understand where to disconnect in the earlier step). Ok, so now everything is apart. I clean the power valve area with some carb cleaner and blow it off with compressed air. Then I remove ONE screw (to make life easy for lining up things up for assembly) and drop it in some carb cleaner and liberally blow some carb cleaner in the threads of teh mounting shaft. Looking at the screw, it has some gunk in the threads. I need an easy way to remove the crud from these fine threads, so I got a small wire brush from a dremel rotary tool set and put it in my drill, in the vice. The screws have a round head and holding just the head with pliers is likely to launch them across the room, so put pliers on them top and bottom of the screw, seemed to work well enough. I then blow out the threaded hole with compressed air, and ad a drop of loc-tite 242 (blue removalbe for 1/4" and larger, not so easy to remove on smaller screws, may require heat!) and reassemble. Repeat 11 more times. Use compressed air to blow any crud out of the plenum runners. Clean all the gasket mounting surfaces with a clean rag and carb cleaner or similar. Installation is reverse of assembly.... BUT........

Hey Raingoat, Sept/Oct has NOT been good for me-Mom got very sick suddenly and passed away shortly after, the dryer failed, the dishwasher failed, kitchen sink tap set has been leaking for years(unbeknownst to me) underneath and rotted out the bottom 6 inches of cabinetry while I'm trying to arrange her funeral and get her estate in order and the nightmare that is probate. I'm the only child....sigh. Needless to say I've been drinking and smoking a lot. Didn't go to work for a month then yesterday morning, the alternator finally packed it. Had bought a new one, thinking that it should be fairly straightforward and I could change the PS pump and AC pump while I was at it and had it all apart...BWAAHAHAHA! WTF was I thinking?? "He's a looney, I tell ya, a looney! The bugger's off his nut!!" Changing the alt on an R50 is a horror show! Some braintrust at Nissan decided that a "floating nut" that has ZERO access to it was the best way to fasten the main alternator mounting bolt-every time my back spams, I'd like to kick that guy in the junk! I'm on Day 2 w/this nightmare! BTW, ALL the YouTube videos related to this go to great lengths to describe what to do to make this an easier job then promptly, fast forward to video showing everything already reinstalled...JC, are you kidding me??? Only by reading other people's comments, did I find out about this floating nut issue and any sort of solutions to it. I left a few comments myself...in frustration! Well I can feel my hands again so I better get back tater. Thank Christmas it's not raining yet...tomorrow they say. Will update w/what I was able to use as a solution, fix or fire-lol. Cheers, Victor. PS: Decided to clean out garage to do any more work on the PF.