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The mounting surfaces only support about 24” width. The body can go a bit wider, but judging by the pic I’d say it’s 24” uniform. That’s the width on mine, too. Just another instance of the R50 bastard syndrome...no support. When I used to take my truck to get oil changes, the guys never removed anything...they just bent the plastic to down. For the longest time, I just thought it was a poor design for the plastic skid plate, always seeing it sagging down, then I realized it was laziness. I started doing my own changes when I discovered that one of the jackasses ripped a nearby wire. Though, coming up with an access solution that doesn’t require any parts to be removed is pretty tough...need stuff like hinges, captive screws, latches, etc. Costs add up, and at least for skids of the nature discussed here, features like that become weak spots.

I vote hawairish emperor of NPORA

Just don't buy the eBay LEDs. They are junk.

I still have red too but my military buddies told me they use green because it lets you see color on maps better than red. I love that the map lights are independent of the door switch. One of the things I really like about Nissan & the Path is the ability to turn stuff off. I hate all the auto lights & seats that I don’t have the ability to override in my other vehicles.

This front skid plate is just the bottom. Do you think adding some sides makes it more effective, structurally stronger?

I like the idea of access holes, too, but I agree with fleurys that additional costs can be a tough sell. There’s a minor difference between the VG and VQ in terms of oil filter and drain plug locations, which means you’ve got to integrate larger openings to accommodate both engines, which means more labor and material to reinforce the openings. And because of where the oil filter is, you practically need the front skid off to work on it. Replace your drain plug with a Fujimoto valve and about 10” of tubing and you don’t even need to remove the mid skid, if so equipped.

Hi, I have been doing some maintenance and repairs the last couple of months to the pathy (260.000 km): - Changed front struts, replacing the 10 yrs old rancho 5000 with the standard kyb's. - Changed rear struts with Bilstein 33185569 to replace 7 yrs old procomp's. - Rear door and window (tailgate) lift supports replaced with monroe 901683 and stabillus SG371001 - Replaced front driver window motor with ACDELCO 11M235. - Replaced reverse switch with nissan one (32005-21U1B)... now I have a backup lights!. While I was doing that I replaced the manual transmission bushing. - Changed front original stabilizer links (Sankei 555 brand). - Repleced broken antenna mast with nissan one (28215-9B000) - Replaced tailgate Nissan emblem (90891-5W500)..vandalized some time ago. - Front brake pads replaced with Akebono ASP691. Previous set of Akebono's lasted 75.000 km (!). - Rear brake shoes replaced & drum resurfaced ( at least 110.000Km without service)

Oh yeah man that would have been a monster to remove altogether. I guess you could do it but you would need a gantry crane and the front clip removed. Or maybe you could do it with a cherry picker and a trans jack together. Anyway I think theres really only a couple or so different possibilities: 1. A TC bolt has worked loose and it catching on something. 2. The flex plate is bent and is catching on something. 3. Maybe there is still something going on with the starter and ignition switch, ie the bendix isn’t retracting. Let us know what you find.

The LEDs help a lot. Better make sure you have them OFF if you’re trying to preserve your night eyes though.. I don’t have a pic of the front seats illuminated by the dome but it is more than enough light to do whatever. If you haven’t already ordered your dome bulbs then look at these first. They’re a little higher priced but they are brighter than I expected, and I expected them to be bright. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075MC9QTZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title It says they’re unavailable right now.. I literally just ordered mine last week. Maybe they’ll be available again soon. Anyway, the warm white color temp is awesome. It’s whiter than the stock bulbs but not blue at all. Superbrightleds.com has colored BA9 bulbs for our map lights, if you’re looking for a solution to keep your night eyes. I got red LEDs for mine but now I’m reading that green and even blue are better than red for night eyes and enemy detection. Blue resembles the moon and green resembles moon light reflected from leaves, and red just resembles an uninformed person.. I did put a neutral white BA9 in the passenger map light and it puts out more than enough light for the driver when I’m not trying to preserve my night eyes and I just need light. Edit: I turned down the exposure a little too much on this photo.. I was trying to match what I was actually seeing with my eyes and I went a tiny bit too far, not much but a little.

Been a while since my last post. But got a huge update on the pathy. Finally had some time to strip out a cylinder head. Come to find out... You guessed it bent the intake valves shoved them right into the head. So now I'm going to be pulling the other head and will be replacing both heads. I want to thank everyone who has helped with their input in this. I'm hoping before the new year the old girl will be back on the road!

Maybe it's just me, but they don't look blue at all? Looks great.

All custom. Pepsi had a lot of things done. For the work required to make a long-travel IFS, it'd probably be more cost effective to just SAS it... But...here's how I'd do it: 1) Use a 1st Gen Frontier/X CV shaft...I think it's the same flange bolt pattern, same spline count, and about 1" longer. 2) Custom LCA. Rear bushing mount would be replaced by one that allows for a bolt-through bushing or other joint (not that pin/tail style ours has). Move the spindle out 1" or more (CV + flange spacer) 3) Custom shock and UCA hanger/bracket that bolts between strut tower and both subframe points. May require cutting into wheel well above unibody primary support tube (no clue what they call it) to recess the UCA mounts. 4) Stock or aftermarket UCAs from a Frontier/X or Tacoma, possibly even W/D21. Former trucks have a lot of options; latter trucks have the UCA crosspin that might simplify mounting UCAs. Otherwise, custom UCA 5) If using Nissan parts, I'd probably just bring the spindle over from the truck. Will still be able to use manual hubs. There are some similarities for steering parts. Otherwise, custom adapter for the strut knuckle to use a uniball or Johnny joint instead of a balljoint. Obviously, lots of variability depending on budget and course of action, though this is more or less converting the strut to double-wishbone suspension. It doesn't afford a whole lot of additional travel, but better than OE. Definitely not for any high-speed action if using many OE parts. Here's where I say something like, "Man, Nissan sure made the Pathfinder a bastard," knowing that all those 2nd Gen Frontier/X guys basically have a kit just by swapping over some parts from a Titan. We share nothing with the other Nissans...hence, all custom.

Free$: https://sites.google.com/site/r50projects4free/home Specifically for your request: https://sites.google.com/site/r50projects4free/EDDMS_REAR_WHEEL_CARRIER.pdf