devonianwalk Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 If it jumps at the crank sprocket then both are affected... This makes perfect sense with the lower TB cover being loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 HOLY F U C TO THE K! LOOK AT THIS $H!T!!! I don't have access to an impact yet but, today I decided to go ahead and remove the top TB cover. I'm rubbing my temples over this one. What gives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Do you think that it'd be okay to pressure wash the (still wet) mud and dirt off? How am I supposed to clean this mess? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Pretty much what I expected, it simply looks like the rest of the engine did. Normally speaking it shouldn't be that bad, but if the cover was loose as you said, it is absolutely no surprise. So, get a new belt and tensioner and what ever tools you need and change it out, cleaning as you go. With a little bit of luck, it'll run fine after that. If you plan to do more mudding, you may want to use blue loctite on the cover screws and probably some RTV for the sealing surfaces as well... Best of Luck, Bud!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) You probably could, once all the covers are off but be careful. If it were my truck I would throw a new timing belt on there after making sure all the silt is gone. Also make sure your timing covers go on properly, it shouldn't have been able to get in there! Edited September 18, 2011 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Do you think that it'd be okay to pressure wash the (still wet) mud and dirt off? How am I supposed to clean this mess? Yes, but cover up your coolant ports and be gentle around the seals (cam and crank), better to clean those by hand later... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 18, 2011 Author Share Posted September 18, 2011 Yeah, I think I'll take the good advice on changing the three month old TB since I'm in here again and don't worry about me and the mud any more ... I'm through with that crap! Straight up trail riding for me from now on .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaMountianbiker Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 ^ heard that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denley Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Did this fix your problem? I'm in the same situation you are I think mine has jumped time as well but I didn't wanna tear down until I heard if this was resolved yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 I have not finished the job yet (its not my daily driver) but, I will post the results as soon as I get the chance to finish the job. Hopefully this week or next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBDIII Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 Thank you for the feedback Mario. We just rolled the truck off of the trailer. I've had a CEL for over a year now (O2 sensor) but, I guess that would make sense to read it again. I did have the flashing CEL Which indicated a misfire. Don't sweat it, always willing to speculate. I'll admit, I have bad O2's too, killing my fuel economy... The flashing CEL can be any number of detrimental engine codes though: Like knock sensor, cam sensor implausible signal, coolant temp, Low oil pressure, ect. I think in your case the engine realized it couldn't pull enough timing retard to correct a detonation, cause by an out of place valve from a timing slip. If it were me, I'd use some old fashioned elbow grease for the timing components. Maybe wash the mud off with a hose or something, the cam and crank seals only like to see up to about 60-80PSI max in oil pressure, so 300PSI of water pressure would probably blow past them. Good thing is the timing's easy to do on these trucks, find a good blow-by-blow (probably on this site, haven't searched myself) and take your time. Nothing a backyard mechanic can't get done in a day, doesn't take anything more specialized than a set of metric sockets/wrenches, a few hand tools, and a torque wrench. With that much muck the belt could have just slipped. That wouldn't warrant brand new parts as far as I'm concerned, given you reset the timing and clean everything nice. HOWEVER, the bad news is yours is an interference engine, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, or slips, there is a possibility of valve train and/or piston damage resultant from valve-piston contact. Your going to want to take off the intake manifold and stick your eyeball, or a boroscope in there to assess any possible damage(bent valves) Good luck d00d, any general mechanical questions post em up! I'm a pretty seasoned mechanic, and always willing to help where I can. -Mario PS. The best way to break the bolt on the Harmonic balancer(Crank pulley) is to pin a 1/2" drive ratchet in the OFF/Reverse position with correct size socket on the crank bolt against the underneath of the driverside framerail(I propped a 4x4 piece of wood between the ratchet handle and the ground). Then just zap the ignition for a half second to turn the starter, the little 1/4 turn you'll get should pop the big bolt for you. (DO NOT hold the ratchet, use something to prop it up and stay out from under the truck, in case the ratchet flies out) Okay, I'm done now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 Lol .. no thread jack at all. In fact, pretty much helpful! Tonight my buddy came over and brought his impact wrench. We got the crank pully nut off with out a hitch. The only problem tonight was that I did not have the correct bolt (6mm or 8mm maybe?) to thread the balancer for my puller. We did find out that the driver side (LH?) cam is about two teeth off of the other. I can figure out which one is off mark when I get the proper bolts to remove the harmonic balancer and lower TB cover to check the crank postition. Hopefully I can find the time to work on it in the next couple of days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I didn't have the correct bolts for the balancer puller either. The metric bolt hole is a close enough size for a 1/4-20 tap though. I just ran the 1/4-20 tap into the metric threaded hole. It cut enough threads for the 1/4-20 bolts to work with the puller and didn't mess up the metric thread so I could put the metric bolt back in on reassembly. Just mark the two holes so you know which two for next time or put two small 1/4-20 bolts in those holes. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 30, 2011 Author Share Posted September 30, 2011 ... Just mark the two holes so you know which two for next time or put two small 1/4-20 bolts in those holes. James Strange, my harmonic balancer only has two holes. My friend has suggested that I compression test each cylinder before wrapping everything up in the unlikely event that one of the valves got damaged. Neither of us think that is the case because of the idle that we acheived by advancing the dizzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 The r50 pulley is different from the wd21 pulley. The r50 one only has 2 holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 I didn't have the correct bolts for the balancer puller either. The metric bolt hole is a close enough size for a 1/4-20 tap though. I just ran the 1/4-20 tap into the metric threaded hole. It cut enough threads for the 1/4-20 bolts to work with the puller and didn't mess up the metric thread so I could put the metric bolt back in on reassembly. Just mark the two holes so you know which two for next time or put two small 1/4-20 bolts in those holes. James 1/4-20= .250" Major diameter max, .196-.207" Minor diameter, .05" thread pitch. M6x1.= .236" Major diameter max, .194-.203" Minor diamter, .0394" thread pitch. Close, but not quite. Now M5x.8 and 10-32, those are really close... My friend has suggested that I compression test each cylinder before wrapping everything up in the unlikely event that one of the valves got damaged. Neither of us think that is the case because of the idle that we acheived by advancing the dizzy. You are far enough into it that it would be silly not to. Of course you'll have to set the belt right before you can get good readings... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 nice mud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 1, 2011 Share Posted October 1, 2011 Yes the 3.3 only has two holes for a puller they don't normally have anything bolted to them. I had actually retapped the balancer on my quest 3.3 before I got the pathy, so when I got to that point I knew exactly what to do. And B, I didn't go about it the machinist way and look up all the info like you did. A 1/4-20 bolt would try to start so I made some threads for it. I actually figured this out on my Suzuki 4 wheeler years ago. The bolts for the skid plate would get stripped after a while from rust so I tapped them out to the next size I had laying around. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Who looked anything up?? Well, I did look up the range of the M6 minor diameter, but here is a handy bit of knowledge: with metric internal threads, subtract the pitch from the major diameter and that is the correct minor diameter. M6x1. would equal 5mm or .197"... Machine screw major diameters are (#x.013")+.06" so a 0-80=.06" and a 10-32=.190" (with a minor diameter of .156-.164") I could ramble for hours, but in all honesty I have probably tapped and cut more threads than most people have seen... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 IT'S ALIVE! IT'S ALIVE! IT'S A Liiiiiive!! I reset the timing marks (two teeth on the Right cyl bank, three teeth on the Left bank) and checked the compression on cylinders 1-5. They were hitting around 90-120 psi until I shot a couple squirts of 10w 30 in each cylinder. After letting the motor sit for a couple of minutes I was able to get 140-150 psi in each cylinder. I'm assuming 6 is fine as well because man, I'm not about to try to shoot oil and test that one! I let her idle for less than one minute while I played with the dizzy. She was smoking like crazy with the oil in the fire chambers but she was purring like a kitten. I feel oh so relieved! I'm going to start putting her back together tomorrow and hopefully get her back on (off) road this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Great news!! You got lucky!! Did we learn anything?? Just razzing you, I'm glad there wasn't major damage... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Did we learn anything?? Yes. Mazda Miata's get a little cramped after a month or two of daily driving. I'm parking that b*tch for four weeks. My 6'2" frame fits the Pathy a little more comfy thant the sassy little two seater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 It lives! Glad to hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Did we learn anything?? B Bananas are an excelent source of potassium? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Who looked anything up?? Well, I did look up the range of the M6 minor diameter, but here is a handy bit of knowledge: with metric internal threads, subtract the pitch from the major diameter and that is the correct minor diameter. M6x1. would equal 5mm or .197"... B Damn! That is sooo cool! I know I'm gonna use this...one day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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