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I love my O'Reilly lifetime warranty new axles (not remanufactured from old cores). They come fully greased and assembled with the outersnap ring. Before I installed my SFD, I was running 2" spacers and went through 3 CV axles for the price of 1 thanks to the warranty. Two of them due to CV bind and 1 to a ripped boot. They have worked great since fixing the suspension geometry and have seen lots of HD abuse with my 6" setup, a combination of towing and off road use. The lifetime warranty guarantees the axle for as long as you own the vehicle and its as simple as bringing in the old unit and swapping for the replacement. No hassle, no fuss and no shipping. The lifetime warranty from local parts stores on high wear parts is a great investment in my opinion.

Thanks to everyone on this forum/thread. Here’s my first mod after 8 years of ownership OME 2928 Fleury +1” KYB GR2 KYB Strut mounts OEM strut bearings LR NRC9449 Bilstein 5125 (29”) Before: On old,tired, saggy and blown suspension Loaded for camping and weighing in at 5480lbs After: No more rubbing on 265/65r17 at this height. But now I need more tire. Haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

READ AND FOLLOW THE RULES! NOMINATIONS AND POSTS NOT CONFORMING TO THE RULES LINED OUT BELOW WILL BE DELETED WITHOUT NOTIFICATION. 1. You can nominate only Pathfinder/Terrano/QX4 trucks belonging to Registered NPORA Forum Members. New members will have to wait 3 months and have a post count of 100 before they can be nominated. Members who are banned, currently on suspension or for 1 month after their return from suspension will also be disallowed. (If you are banned you won't be able to be nominated for 2 months). 1a. Include the name of the NPORA Member who's truck it is that you're nominating (even if it is yours) 2. NO FAKE OR JOKE ENTRIES. 2b. Only original, unaltered photos with out graphics, advertisement or watermarks will be accepted for nomination. (Actual permanent stickers are allowable.) 2c. Final acceptance of TotM Nominations pics and winner submissions is at the sole discretion of the NPORA Moderation Team. 3. First 20 nominees are up for consideration and the nomination thread will be closed after the 20th submission or the 20th of the month, which ever comes 1st. Voting will be from 21st-31th. 4. One pic per nomination post, pics must have at least 640x480 of usable image space for use in the in the official boarder in the event that it wins the popular vote.All nominations are subject to the approval of the Mod Team and all decisions are final. Try to make it a good one or nobody will vote for your nominee! A recent pic is preferred but if the Pathy is still in the same shape as your last pic, go ahead and use that. An offroad setting or action pic is also preferred, but not necessary. 5. Only one truck nomination per member per month. 5a. If multiple people want to nominate the same truck, it is up to the nominee to decide on which pic to run with. In the absence of the nominee, the decision will be made by NPORA Moderating Team 6. Winner gets 3 pics of their choice of their Pathfinder pinned in the TOTM forum (PM me the links please) and is ineligible for the remainder of the calendar year. 6a. A Member can only win once a year - multiple pathfinders does not mean multiple wins. 7. No post whoring. 8. Not reading these rules may result in a zombie attack. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ TOTM: THEMED MONTHS The idea was put forward by packie88 with then intention of getting people out in their pathys to get themed shots. It is only each alternate month that is themed, so you can post up whatever pic you want in the in between month (Some people will never see snow). It is a kind of rule, but a loose one. For example, water crossing nominations may be considered if there is a mud crossing, the truck is in water, or crossing the road in a torrential rainpour. If you post up a pic with no water in sight, then that will be removed. Below are the monthly themes: January Anything goes February Snow pic March Anything goes April Water crossing pic May Anything goes June Sand pic July Anything goes August Flex pic September Anything goes October Sunset pic November Anything goes December Mud pic This nomination thread is open through July 20 or until 20 submissions are reached (whichever comes first).

Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up): Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application P/N in mm in mm 610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front) 610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear) 610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest 610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though. If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm. Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too. Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier). You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.

Based on the image you provided the splined portion of the axle shaft has completely come apart from the flexible joint, which also has a splined portion that remains in the hub, presumably with the outer snap ring in tact. You need open the hub, remove the outer snap ring then remove the flexible joint of the CV axle thats still attached to the back side of the hub. At that point you can assess if the inner snap ring has broken or there is any other damage which resulted in the CV axle coming apart.

Color choice is [emoji91][emoji91][emoji91] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why I stick with the clutch fan. It works and has never let me down.

On Sunday, when heading up into the hills to do some shooting with my daughter, had my fans give up on me. Saw the temp at hot and couldn't hear the fans with the engine off(have the controller set to run on temp even with the engine off), so opened the hood to see what was going on and found the relay was gone out of the controller. Thought that's odd, had a spare that I put in and the fans tried to jump out of the engine bay. Pulled the relay and took a look at the fans and found both were missing a blade and chunks out of the rest. Guess 20 years was about the limit for the Maxima fans I installed. Stuck the relay back in and let the paint shakers tear themselves apart to get back home. New fans arrived today, so have that fun project to do when I find a few hours to pull the radiator to get the broken fan assembly off and build the replacement. Hard to get motivated on all the work I have to do on my truck. After 9 hours a day of working on other people's cars, working on mine just isn't very interesting to me anymore.

Looks nice! Hopefully you don't get a little out of control like I have, lol. Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

For something like that its functional with no added work so im happy. Only ill notice it so it can just bug my ocd lmao. Thanks

If I recall correctly, new CV axles don't come with a new snap ring, so you may need to acquire one if yours is indeed missing. You You should be able to pop the hub cap off (~1.5" diameter cap in the middle of your lug studs) and wipe down the grease and look. Obviously if your axle slid out it's probably missing, but maybe it's still in the cap? Worth looking.

haha yeah they squeeze in. Nah i keep all the stuff in the back tightly packed in a box and the stuff in the front fits in the center console, glove box, and behind the seats. I actually left some stuff out like my muck boots and ratchet straps, among other things. If i ever get around to building a new sound system then i'll have to rethink what all stays.

Heck yea man. I appreciate that. Ive been this way my entire life. If either of the R50's get the least littlest dirt on them it bothers me to the point that i literally think about it till i clean it. Lol sad huh? Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

I'm gonna resurrect this thread to keep all the numbers in one place. I went searching and I found that Ichiba makes Some extended wheel studs that should FIT our vehicles. P/N: NS-122555S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 55mm long P/N: NS-122550S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 50mm long P/N: NS-122545S, 12.8 Knurl, 12x1.25, 45mm long The best price I have found on these is http://SNCtuning.com, presently $2.69ea and also the most reasonable shipping for my location. I plan on using the 55mm on both my trucks to give me 13mm more rear stud than I had before. I'm going to order up a set and do studs when I do my brakes.

Popped by the paint shop to check on the Troutfinder and it was done, so I brought her home and put her back together-Mostly! Complete color change. Color is Thunder. Toyota color from the 2018 Toyota 86. Pre-pictures are over in the Garage forum. Really like the outcome. It came out Sick! More of the blue comes out when in the shade as can be seen in some of the pics. They were supposed to leave the decals off of the back. I was gonna paint them flat black or just leave them off. Gonna have to prep them and spray them black now! Daylight was running out, so I still have to put the rear tire, jack and rod cannon back on. Although I'm debating the cannon or switching over to an awning. Next up: -Put the interior back together -Build custom slim line nerf bars from stock mounting hardware. -Cleaning and painting the under carriage black including visible exhaust piping, accenting some pieces in Red. -Detail the engine and engine compartment-Blackout with Red accents.

thanks for all that! got the 9448s and 29” bilsteins and i love the way it drives now also that looks way better too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jwt makes some pretty sweet cams as well. Supposedly they’re one of the biggest bang for the buck mods. Headers would help and aren’t too pricey. Then exhaust and a snorkel to let her breathe