Jump to content

Which Lights?


NismoSkyZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just purchased a roof basket and I want to mount 4 lights on the top. I want them to be super bright, but I have no idea which ones to get. I have had bad experiences in the past from lights promising crazy brightness, but in fact, they were dimmer than my fogs. I need them to be relativly cheap as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated. One more thing...how would I run the wires from the lights to the cabin and battery without them being seen?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most people run it along the railing to the back and have the wire enter at the rubber grommet that contains the wiring for the rear hatch. That's the cleanest way, but it requires longer wiring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I first installed lights and did them up pretty quickly as I was fairly excited. Every single wire for 8 lights went through the door jambs.

 

The second time I redid the lights because I was tired of people commenting on the wires in my door and along the weatherstripping. I drilled 2 holes through the top of the firewall (just above the center of the block).

 

There is also a grommit in which I ran 4 guage through (used some K-Y to squeeze it in there) for the sterio that is just to the left of the block. (about a 3" oval shaped grommit)

 

NOW heres the difference. MZ the wds are a little bit different and have grommits that are accessable and no drilling is required really unless u want like 0 guage stuff going through.

 

On auto trans r50's, which most people have, there is a grommit where the clutch pedal would be if it were a 5 speed. Obviously that grommit isnt there if you have a 5 speed (like me). But even if it is, it would be IMO, a pain to run wires from the passanger side to the drivers side and then into the car.

 

As per roof lights, like i stated above, I originally had the wires going through the doorjamp up the weatherstripping....but when i drilled holes in the firewall, I said "eh, might as well make it look clean and drill on in the roof too". So i did. Right next to the roof rack rail as close to the front as I could and ran the wires inside down the A-Pillar.

 

I have pictures of everything, just not here. If youd like I can post some pics of where I drilled holes, what i used to seal everything up, etc. Let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another option through the firewall is through the grommet for the hood release latch wire. It's pretty big, and I'm running a 4 gauger through.

dude where the F does that grommit go into the car? LOL i never found it because im half way to retarded. got a pic?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Whoa, way to dig up an ooooooooold thread. I got piaa's and mounted them on my grill guard. I smashed up my grill guard and my front end, but the piaa's remained flawless. Had to sell them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aaron, when AREN'T you buying PIAA's?

 

KC Slimlites and Daylighters (150w) are about the best light out there IMO. I've had my beefs with PIAA bulbs failing or just not being bright enough for their ridiculous pricetag. I bought some Hella 500s off ebay a week ago for about $50 bucks, I'll let you know how they are, but I expect nothing special. Infact the GE landing lights in 4.5" or 5.75" are excellent value if you tend to replace lenses regularily anyways. I have the Q4509s in my bumper right now, which put out 160,000 CP each in a huge beam, costing about $7CAD each.......

 

Finally, if you're willing to sacrifice brightness for durability and flexability,Lightforce beams are ajustable from spot/flood to pencil by turning the UNBREAKABLE lens left and right.... Insane expensive though. Howver if you get the 240mm ones, you'll never get stuck in the snow. Just aim them down and melt your woes away.

 

I'd go with KC if I could afford em. Make sure to use a heavier, fused (8-10guage or so) wire from the battery to the relay, then 10-12 elsewhere. just to be safe. I used 14g for my aircraft lights which at 25feet is actually under-rated... From the battery, I run an 8guage power cable to a fuseblock which runs my amp and lights... Makes expanability that much easier.

 

I also drilled through the firewall, where the throttle cable goes through.... Couldn't find an easier spot. I may try the grommet thing later on, and patch the hole....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hellas showed up... A pic from my phone, after our sea/ski-doo rescue this morning. It's pissing rain out now, but I'll try to give my 2cents on their brightness when its clear out again. I predict they'll illuminate a little more of the shoulderof the road, but otherwise nothing extra when the A/C lights are on. I'll be aiming them to the ditches for deer-spotting i guess.

post-1862-1178676021.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well that's good. When I had mine I drilled a hole in the bolts and after I screwed the nut on, I put a small lock on them. If someone REALLY wanted them they could, but most people wouldn't fak with it. Same as my roof cage...I wrapped metal woven wire around the basket and my rack and master locked it together. Painted it black too so it doesn't stick out as much.

 

In other news, my fog lights have filled with water after a urban offroading trip and hopefully I'll be replacing them with these bad boys:

 

1500xt.gif

 

The clear 1500xt's...anybody hear anything about these? Aaron?

Edited by NismoSkyZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yo!

 

don't be spendy on those lights! I am looking at the exact same lamps...nope still no R50....anyway, look at the Hella FF75's. The Hella's and the Piaa's both have abs rears and magnesium reflectors, PIAA=H3 and Hella=H7....I am going to buy the Hella's from autoanything.com...this is the best price..74.95, free shipping! I looked at the 1500'S and the 2100's....just too much $$$ lest AARON can convince me different! Which he may?! :crossedwires:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys,

 

Don't muck about. If you want the best lights you need to buy 'LightForce'. Visit their website http://www.lightforce.com/

 

They are polycarbonate bodies, with shaterproof parabolic lenses which you can adjust in beam width with a simple turn of the face (Same idea as a MagLight). They have been proven to work even after being hit with a shotgun at a short distance. I originally had Cibies fitted to my rig but changed them to Lightforce when I drove in my mates Landcruiser. You will not believe the power and distance. They won the Australian 4WD magazine driving light shootout in 2000 by a considerable long way, beating KC's, Hellas, Cibies, PIA, to name a few. The 240 XGT model won the Best Driving Light 2004 by 4WD magazine. If you really have big bucks (AUS $ 850 each) the 240 HID version has the ballasts built into the lamp and are waterproof. They have an effective beam of over 1.4 Km (0.88 mile) !!!

 

They do them in 5 different models - 140 Lance, 170 Striker, 240 Blitz, 240 XGT and 240 HID models.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...