Replacement injectors

[beastboy]

Is there a thread on replacement injectors for a VG30E?

 

I have a 91 pathfinder, with a VG30E, that I’m trying to register and get back on the road in CA. The ECU is sending out diagnostic code 51, the check engine light is on. 51 is the only code.

 

I am thinking of replacing all of the injectors. Are Denso better injectors? Do higher flow injectors require mods to the ECU? Can I pass emissions in CA with higher flow injectors?

 

Is there a thread or threads y’all can point to on this?

 

Thanks.

 

 

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[19Pathy94se30]

Is there a thread on replacement injectors for a VG30E?
 
I have a 91 pathfinder, with a VG30E, that I’m trying to register and get back on the road in CA. The ECU is sending out diagnostic code 51, the check engine light is on. 51 is the only code.
 
I am thinking of replacing all of the injectors. Are Denso better injectors? Do higher flow injectors require mods to the ECU? Can I pass emissions in CA with higher flow injectors?
 
Is there a thread or threads y’all can point to on this?
 
Thanks.
 
 
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I too need info on this!!!!


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[SpecialWarr]

Replacing the injectors will only get you clean injectors. it won't really "help" with emissions as that is controlled by the ECU getting signals from the O2 sensor, IACV , EGR and the MAF and adjusting fuel supply and timing in relation to what the parameters in the fuel map state is "correct". Best thing is to run new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new battery and everything with a perfect ground to bare metal; paying special attention to the MAF sensor wiring's additional ground. BARE metal is what you want. Now it'll pass smog, THEN you can throw down for new injectors! 

 

As far as modding the ECU, there was a guy on the west coast in BC who was suggesting that he was going to write up a different fuel map for the Path but that ended with an open ended thread and no more updates in the last three years. So unless you want to spring for a Jim Wolf ECU ( go for it!) there isn't much to be done to the ECU and little information exists here for any mods. You'll need to track down a tuning shop that works with Nissans... I suggest that Haltech in Austalia is a good place to start, they at least have Nissans that they work with on a regular basis.

[beastboy]

Thanks. I need the check engine light to be off to pass California emissions testing. I was thinking that since I’ve got a code 51, I’d replace all of the injectors. I could ohm them, but since I’ll have to do the work if getting in there, I thought I’d replace them all. Was tempted by the picture of the Denso spray pattern (it looks more even) and I was tempted by 550cc Bosch injectors.


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[msavides]

I had this problem when I lived in California.  

 I replaced injectors, Replaced the ECU, Tried everything.  sometimes it would take 3 smog attempts.  It was hit and miss after I cleared the check engine light when it would do it again.  I would clear the code take it in for a smog and keep my fingers crossed it woud pass.   The last time I took it in to get smogged the check engine light stayed off until the end.  It had already passed on the machine so the Smog tech guy warned me that I needed to get this fixed. 

 

The funny thing is I moved to oregon and I have not needed to get it smogged here, since it is smog exempt here. But the Check engine light has not come on once after fueling up with Oregon gas. I have been here over 4 years.  I am wondering if this has more to do with what they put in the Fuel in california than the failed injector. 

 

The error code I got was some kind of injector curcuit. It translated to a partially clogged Injector. (iregular spray pattern) It would not burn completly and trigger the error somehow. 

 

 

Edited November 9, 2018 by msavides

[Slartibartfast]

The service manual says that a code 51 means an open circuit somewhere in the injector harness, likely caused by a bad injector or a fault with the harness. The diagnostic procedure starts on EF&EC 108 of the '95 manual--looks like it's basically just having you test each injector circuit from the plug on the ECU to the plug at the injector. The only other injector code is 45, injector leak, which is supposed to trigger only if an injector's leaking, but can apparently pop up for just about anything else that causes the truck to run pig rich (sensor faults, fuel pressure).

 

I was able to tighten up a loose plug on one of my idle controls that was just loose enough to cause intermittent issues by squishing the pins in the female end a little bit (with a knife, in a parking lot, so probably not how you're supposed to do it)--if your injectors test good, I'd be inclined to try something similar, on the off chance you just have a loose plug that's making an injector drop out occasionally and setting a code without making a consistent misfire (which I assume you'd notice driving the thing).

The guy who was modding the ECUs (I think it's the same guy) is active on the NPORA Facebook page, and it sounds like he's done a few for people. Ekim Naelcm, I think he was Nefarious on here.

[msavides]

mine was code 45.  

[adamzan]

On 11/7/2018 at 12:55 PM, SpecialWarr said:

Replacing the injectors will only get you clean injectors. it won't really "help" with emissions as that is controlled by the ECU getting signals from the O2 sensor, IACV , EGR and the MAF and adjusting fuel supply and timing in relation to what the parameters in the fuel map state is "correct". Best thing is to run new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new battery and everything with a perfect ground to bare metal; paying special attention to the MAF sensor wiring's additional ground. BARE metal is what you want. Now it'll pass smog, THEN you can throw down for new injectors! 

 

As far as modding the ECU, there was a guy on the west coast in BC who was suggesting that he was going to write up a different fuel map for the Path but that ended with an open ended thread and no more updates in the last three years. So unless you want to spring for a Jim Wolf ECU ( go for it!) there isn't much to be done to the ECU and little information exists here for any mods. You'll need to track down a tuning shop that works with Nissans... I suggest that Haltech in Austalia is a good place to start, they at least have Nissans that they work with on a regular basis.

 

He actually has made the fuel map. I know a member who has it in his 91. I drove it when I was out west. It's certainly faster than my stock one, but it is no race car. For some reason he blocked me on Facebook though I'm an admin of the group so can still see his posts...

[SpecialWarr]

14 hours ago, adamzan said:

 

He actually has made the fuel map. I know a member who has it in his 91. I drove it when I was out west. It's certainly faster than my stock one, but it is no race car. For some reason he blocked me on Facebook though I'm an admin of the group so can still see his posts...

 

 

I thought he was working on it, I hadn't realized that it was done and running! Faster than stock is progress but I would never expect it to be "speedy".... it's a truck after all. 

[adamzan]

I don’t know where he’s at now, he started acting like a c u n t

Edited November 13, 2018 by adamzan

[Charlie_Brown]

On a side note to the original question, not positive if there is a write up however replacing injectors is easy.

 

Take out the fuel pump fuse from the dash, turn the truck over and let it run till it does. Take off your gas cap and leave it off to decompress whatever else is left in the lines. Take off the intake manifold held down by like 5 or 6 Allen bolts (along with a lot of hoses, honestly this is the worst part). From here you can access all the injectors, they have a small c clip around the plug ins you need to take off (If I remember correctly that or it's just a clip) then just slip the connections off. If I'm remembering right there are 2 Phillip's screws holding down a plate for each injector you take off and that should be it. Then you just twist and walk the puppies out. Careful not to get any dust or dirt In the ports as you change them and leave the new injectors in the box until you are about to put in that one. I'd recommend going one by one just to reduce any chance of grime. Bolt everything back together and by on your way.

 

If I've forgotten anything or left anything out my apologies however the process is very simple and straight forward.

[dirtx]

If you want to replace your injectors, I would recomend having them cleaned and tested rather than replaced. I just did mine and sent them to Mr. injector. only $17.50 each.

The guy was really easy to deal with and a fast turnaround time. If a injector failed the electrical test he wont charge you for the bad ones. (I had two fail and had to buy replacements for those. Here is a link to his site. http://www.mrinjector.us/  Hope this helps.