Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Hello fellow Nissassins. Is there a doctor in the house? Getting opinions and/or advice on whether it is possible to easily take my 4wd to a 2wd. The reason I want to commit this crime is as follows: My 4wd Pathy has a huge hole in the transfer case where the front shaft connects. Its ugly. How this happened really isn't important at this point and its something I don't want to relive anyway. I would say the hole is about the size of a gallon milk jug. I love the truck. Reality of it is.. 2003 with 300k miles +on it and while I wish i could just tow it down to MS Powertrain and have them fix it... that isnt an option for me financially. I've checked into getting a used transfer case and doing the replacement myself but after doing some reading I think this may exceed the limits of my Pathfinder Repair skill set. All that said....The Auto Transmission appears to still work fine as I can shift through all with normal engagement. No transmission fluid loss from transmission. (Tcase is of course fluidless) Since this happened, I have driven the truck VERY short distances...Reversed into garage from flatbed tow and pulled forward and reversed again to move the truck to the far side. No Horrible Noises. Its now on jack stands with the front shaft completely out. I don't want to replace the transmission with a 2wd tranny.. Soooo..Wounded transfer case would remain. My question.. With the front shaft out if I disconnect the electronic 4wd switch, Leave the current tranny in and basically GUT the transfer case which won't be real hard to do unfortunately. What happens when I try to drive it??. I got a feeling something about the where the rear drive shaft goes into the transfer case and connects to the spindle or whatever it connects to in the transfer case that connects to the transmission is not going to work very well without the presence of any fluid in the Tcase. Just wondering if any of this crazy no cost temporary solution is even possible. Thanks for taking the time to read and reply. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Transfer case removal is easy but that thing is heavy. Like 130 lb heavy. Why not just cover up the hole and epoxy or jb weld it shut. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNAM Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Remove front drive/prop shaft and cv axles. Then it's 2wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) What to do about this? Gonna be alot of JB Weld. Edited May 10, 2016 by Mississippi_Chillkoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Whoa. So, um, yeah...you do know you'll need to provide a root-cause analysis to us on that one, someday, right? No skirting that discussion with these folks here...(welcome to the forum!). Well...I'd probably first determine which fuses are related to the All-Mode system you have and pull them. Not sure if disconnecting the switch is sufficient. I'd be disconnecting any harness that connect to the t-case (like solenoids), too, for safe measure. The front driveshaft is...obviously out of the picture already. Bottom line is that as long as nothing starts spinning that chain, it should be as 2wd as you can get it. But otherwise, I'm with Cuong regarding DIY replacement if the budget affords it. I'd guess that a local P&P has it for $100-$200, and there are plenty on eBay. Not sure how common the All-Mode TCs were in late-model PFs, but all QX4s had them (some older ones were a little different, I believe, judging by the fact they had a switch and lever before being switch-only). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks so much for the input guys. Im starting to feel a little bit better about possibly seeing some light at the end of this tunnel. Im still iffy about the rear drive shaft ? It connects up to the back of the transfer case and I would think to a spindle from the transmission IN the transfer case. Will this drive-train union do its thing and hold the line in a fluid free transfer case? I have poured over different repair manuals and cant find much info on this as you can imagine. Here's another photo from a different angle that allows you to see the shifter linkage i believe it is...its gonna need a couple of stitches to i think. ;-) Anyone care to take a guess at how this happened? It wasn't a "Ya'll watch this" or a "Hold my beer" moment. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Remus92 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Did you jump it off a cliff? Or it was a "hell no you can't hold my beer" moment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) Lol..if it would have had any thing to do with beer it would have definitely been along those lines but nothing to do with cliff jumping or beer. Lol Edited May 10, 2016 by Mississippi_Chillkoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRAGON64 Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Transfer case called into action at 65+mph from an in-inadvertent knee bump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Looks like it dropped onto a rock or something given the scuffs around the breakage, unless a thrashing front driveshaft did that. Whatever it was, I'm guessing you figured out what happened pretty quickly! I'm looking at the exploded diagram (seems appropriate) for the ATX14a case and while you might be alright as far as locking up the shaft, I'd worry about the bearings. I don't know if the main bearings are sealed but the needle bearings are clearly not, so they rely on the fluid that's not in there anymore. I guess you could try packing all that with trailer bearing grease and hope for the best, but I think you'd have to take it out to do that... and at that point it would be less work to replace the whole case with one that doesn't have a gaping hole in it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 Looks like it dropped onto a rock or something given the scuffs around the breakage, unless a thrashing front driveshaft did that. Whatever it was, I'm guessing you figured out what happened pretty quickly! I'm looking at the exploded diagram (seems appropriate) for the ATX14a case and while you might be alright as far as locking up the shaft, I'd worry about the bearings. I don't know if the main bearings are sealed but the needle bearings are clearly not, so they rely on the fluid that's not in there anymore. I guess you could try packing all that with trailer bearing grease and hope for the best, but I think you'd have to take it out to do that... and at that point it would be less work to replace the whole case with one that doesn't have a gaping hole in it. WE HAVE A WINNER You are correct sir! A thrashing front drive shaft at a high rate of speed DID do that!! Im thinking you are right on the money as bad as I wish you weren't. That said, Since I have nothing to lose....I may "enhance" that gaping hole before washing inside with a strong magnetic soap to get all the little pieces. I may be able to pack the needle bearing without removing. Good idea. Thanks for the info. I know that this will not be a suitable permanent fix but my hopes are to get maaaaaaybe 2 maybe 3 months out of it. Reason the front shaft went psycho on me is as follows..I spent almost 2 months tracking down a vibration that occurred only between certain speeds. Couple of wheel bearing replacements...Tires re balanced with road force balancer....alignment....finally i pulled the front shaft and vibe was gone. Ujoint had hardly any play at all in it but there was a little. I replaced the u joint with a new one...That someone had returned to AutoZone obviously because I had no replacement snap rings. So...I was going to use the old ones. (HUGE MISTAKE) One of them got rather twisted during its removal. After some readjustment with my vise and BFH it looked for all practical purposes to be very close to being back in shape. So back in goes the front shaft and my vibration is finally gone. 3 months later my buddy and I were on our way fishing and were running late so I was driving entirely to fast. Right about the exact time the governor was fixing to kick in...approx..105mph... BOOM GRIND CHEW FIREBALL FLASH(Fluid dumping on exhaust) Sparks like the 4th of July...more..GRIND CHEW until stop....And Now You Know.....The rest of the story..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Your best bet would be to find a used transfer case to swap in. As you have bearing from the output shaft to the drive shaft. That wont last very long without any fluid to lubricate and cool them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Wow. Yeah, that explains it! Next time I'm into a driveshaft I'll make sure and change the snap rings. I might trust it for short distances with the bearings packed but you wouldn't want one of them overheating and locking up when you're at highway speed (or more). With no grease seals I don't think they would hold lube for long. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 11, 2016 Share Posted May 11, 2016 Buy a new (used) transfer case, or buy a new truck. You never reuse old snap rings on u joints...for this reason lol. Good luck. I would personally just swap in a used T-case. Can probably do it in half a day. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mississippi_Chillkoot Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 Thats what my plan was/is to swap out an old one for a used one. And You are definitely correct...DONT USE OLD SNAP RINGS Even if you think you have to. lol BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE!! I appreciate the knowledge. Be Safe and for the record I have been going to work and back as a 2 wheel drive. Cant stand it . Just feels like somethings missing...Guess thats because it is. Looking foward to swapping out the Tcases although a half day job it wont be. lol. You must have a different manual than I do. lol The exhaust system take off and reverse will take me almost that long if not longer. Thanks again and Best Regards,Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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