My new 2001 LE 4x4

[TowndawgR50]

Looks like its the alternator....

 

[mjotrainbrain]

4 lights solved with 1 part? Sounds like a fair trade to me.

[TowndawgR50]

Dug into the truck in preparation for the holiday weekend wheeling trip coming up. New upper rad hose, alternator belt and alternator. Not a fun job but made quick work of it with the annoying, repeated, very small incremental turns to remove the 10mm hex heads for the ground and harness bracket. Stopped short of reinstalling the re-manufactured unit because I discovered the old one to be a genuine Nissan part. I plan to stop and have it tested on my way home tomorrow to verify its bad before handing it over for the core charge. I dont necessarily think its the original alt because it was a dealer maintained rig until I bought it but who knows.

 

Something worth noting-

O'Rielly Auto parts charges different pricing for the same part depending on the scale of neighborhood the store is in. I was quoted a price 15 dollars cheaper at a location close to work, but decided to pick up the unit close to home together with the belt and hose which that location didnt have. When I got there and was told it would be more I asked for a price match and they dropped it to the lower cost from the other store with no questions. I suggest going online and searching for the cheapest price in a given area and asking for a price match when buying parts from them. Kinda scammy but now we all know better. Pays to do some research first.

 

[Citron]

If that's the case, they should give parts away in Aberdeen.

[mjotrainbrain]

Something worth noting-

O'Rielly Auto parts charges different pricing for the same part depending on the scale of neighborhood the store is in.

 

Huh, I figured their pricing would be fixed across all their stores. Don't they have the prices online? I would think the in-store pricing is supposed to match that... Anyways, it's good to know, so thank you, I'll shop around more than I usually do now!

[TowndawgR50]

Before you are given a quote online they ask for your zip code

[mjotrainbrain]

Huh, I never shop at O'Reilly's so I hadn't noticed. The Advance Auto website doesn't do that.

[hawairish]

That's why I don't even bother looking locally for parts anymore. RockAuto FTW.

[TowndawgR50]

I tend to go with local parts stores for items like this for the waranty. Doesnt matter what happened so long as you have a core its guaranteed for life. Already replaced a bunch of CV axles, wheel bearings/races and brake pads that have paid for themselves. I hadnt wheeled my rig that hard until I moved here and had another DD so these warranties are pretty valuable to me to keep my rig up.

[hawairish]

Good point!

[TowndawgR50]

So after almost a year the front drivers side bearing set has gone bad again. That makes 2.5 complete sets since ive owned the truck but I think I finally found the issue. From what I can tell, the flaw lies in the design of the inner bearing grease seal. The spring has a small lip that keeps it in place and if that lip fails or gets damaged the spring unseats and allows debris to get in. I bought the "National" brand bearings and seals with the 3 year warranty from Orielly's because I figured I would replace them before the 3rd year was up and have bearings for the life of the truck but this clearly is a problem. Poor quality materials? Maybe but it very well might be that these seals are fine under normal conditions. The terrain up here has been rough. Lots of sandy mud, water crossings, snow and icy roads that were salted. Could have made things worse or caused the problems all together. We'll see how long these last. Wish I had taken a photo of the damaged unit.

 

Has anyone else had chronic wheel bearing/seal issues?

 

 

I also gave up on the crap hardware that came with my Warn manual hubs. The 2nd stud to break while taking off the assembly this time was the last straw. Ive broken 2 on the passenger side as well over the past year.

I went for some stainless A2-70 SHCS's and yanked everything while I had the hub out. Have some 10.9's coming but these are all I could find today.

 

Of course one was broke down in the bore so that required some effort. Milled a flat and pulled it out with a left handed drill. Tapped them all and called it good. They're M8x1.25 if anyone is interested.

 

[Citron]

Are those double lip seals? If not, give that a try. McGuire Bearing should be able to find those seals in a double lip configuration. They have a store in Tacoma, don't know if they have one in your area.

[Slartibartfast]

How's the surface the seal rides on?

[TowndawgR50]

Citron-

I believe they are. There is an inner lip and outer. The inner lip is the one with the spring, the outer more of a wiper than anything. I'll have to call them and see what they offer.

 

Slartibartfast-

Spindle surface is good. That was my original thought, that something like sand or a rock got in a galled it up but its unscathed.

[Alexey_Maruschak]

Be healthy!

I can assume there are two possible causes of your problem:

1) you have an elevator, and the wheels are significantly different from the standard size.

And after the elevator body and the suspension lift, did you a) carry out the selection of the take-off axis on the disks with the new rubber, select the zero point on the descent-camber axes did you work at the descent-and-collapse stand after the elevator and the wheels change at the service station your car?

Here you can check whether the standard axis of the demolition is aligned with your new tires and disks for grip (point 0): https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

To specify OEM parameters, specify the parameters indicated on the rating plate of the driver's license plate number. As a rule, for the R50 with the VK35DE engine - this is for tires 255 / 65-16, and the size of the regular drive - r16 departure of the standard drive ET 30, the width of the disk is 7 inches. Do you know what size of wheels you have in centimeters, what sort of flight in the new drive along the axis and at the spacer of the hub, if it is?

2) Factory manual on repair and maintenance R50 assumes a tightening of bearings of a nave a nut of fastening with the certain effort. The tightening of the nut is done with a special key KV4015400 with a force of 79-98 Nm,

Your hub, after replacing the inner and outer bearing was tightened according to the rules of the plant?

Such a key, for hub bearings, I made this by myself.

However, I have not figured out how to upload a photo of my work on this site.

Therefore, I simply give a link to my on-board journal on the second answer: https://www.drive2.ru/l/472482137761644818/

 

 

So after almost a year the front drivers side bearing set has gone bad again. That makes 2.5 complete sets since ive owned the truck but I think I finally found the issue. From what I can tell, the flaw lies in the design of the inner bearing grease seal. The spring has a small lip that keeps it in place and if that lip fails or gets damaged the spring unseats and allows debris to get in. I bought the "National" brand bearings and seals with the 3 year warranty from Orielly's because I figured I would replace them before the 3rd year was up and have bearings for the life of the truck but this clearly is a problem. Poor quality materials? Maybe but it very well might be that these seals are fine under normal conditions. The terrain up here has been rough. Lots of sandy mud, water crossings, snow and icy roads that were salted. Could have made things worse or caused the problems all together. We'll see how long these last. Wish I had taken a photo of the damaged unit.

 

Has anyone else had chronic wheel bearing/seal issues?

 

 

I also gave up on the crap hardware that came with my Warn manual hubs. The 2nd stud to break while taking off the assembly this time was the last straw. Ive broken 2 on the passenger side as well over the past year.

I went for some stainless A2-70 SHCS's and yanked everything while I had the hub out. Have some 10.9's coming but these are all I could find today.

 

Of course one was broke down in the bore so that required some effort. Milled a flat and pulled it out with a left handed drill. Tapped them all and called it good. They're M8x1.25 if anyone is interested.

 

 

 

[Alexey_Maruschak]

Here is my example, from the journal of my pathfinder, the adjustment of the bearing preload of the hub bearing using a special key, which was referred to from above. https://www.drive2.ru/l/472519521156989393/

Does not want this site to upload my photos, sorry. I can not figure out what's wrong.

But as I wrote your problem is likely not only in the pre-tension, nor in the absence of the collapse and convergence of the front suspension.

[ChemExposure]

The guys at O'reillys may have given you a rear wheel seal. The ones for the front should have an extra lip on them to prevent it from going too far into the hub.
The guys at Canadian tire pulled the same thing on me, I installed mine anyways and as I was pressing it in the metal retainer spring snapped like yours. I took the one off my old seal put it on and called it a day.

https://www.autopartsway.ca/partdetails.cfm?w0133-1638754/ndk/nissan/2001/pathfinder/se/3.5l-v6/allb/driveline-and-axles/gaskets-and-sealing-systems/wheel-seal/pagenum1/tabs
Those are the correct ones that match the OEM seals.

[TowndawgR50]

Finally getting around to a bunch of changes. Trying out 6" of lift before I look into alternatives. Front cross member has been a snag for lots of the trails this past year.

 

Installed LR rears and spacers aiming for 6" of lift. Forgot to record my height prior to installing and dont have a reference number. Can anyone running 33's and 6" lift give me a fender height measurement?

 

[TowndawgR50]

Did a check of the new rear end hardware. Passenger side adjustable trailing arm needed tightening. I also want to lengthen my bump stops to keep the tires from tucking too much. There is a little bit of noise that was present before the lift, assuming its U-joints but not sure, but its a mild throttle on/off related clunk. Pinion angle is good so I dont think its the rear end but I cant rule that out. Other than that so far so good with the new 6" setup.

 

 

 

 

 

[TowndawgR50]

Had a great weekend working with the US Forest Service for the annual trail clearing event at Liberty. Wheeling and working, at least for me, is super fun. This year our club was assigned the eastern side of the region. Rained on Sunday morning making for some very muddy sections and zero trail dust which is really nice when there are lots of rigs.

 

 

[TowndawgR50]

 

Winching the larger logs out of the way

 

The rain Sunday morning made a really deep 90 degree drop off at a creek crossing that caused some damage to my swing-out tire carrier. I came off the ledge and landed on my hitch then the rear mounted 33". The weight of the truck was resting on the 33 and the only damage was minimal considering all the load on it. The lower mount had the rear facing rivnut pulled out slightly and the passenger side shoved in. Not really that bad but there is room for improvement. Would this have happened to a factory equipped rig? Hard to say. I think damage would have been sustained but not as bad. I'll pull it soon, fix the body and reinforce the panel.

[TowndawgR50]

 

[TowndawgR50]

[jjonez]

Hahaha from the pictures I thought the X90 was a NB Miata! I really like that LWB samurai too

 

Bummer about your carrier. What's your plan for fixing/reinforcing?

[TowndawgR50]

I had never heard of or seen either of those Suzuki models prior to moving up here. Both really capable and unique little rigs.

 

Id like to make a large plate or block to place behind the carrier mounts to help spread the load as well as to tie into the rest of the internal structure. Maybe even see if I cant just grab a cut off a junkyard rig and weld that in.