johann_peralta Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Deleted two other identical threads, please refresh the page after posting, if you do not see it or get an error. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 sorry man computer reposted it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Nice how'd you do it? -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I think that's on the other post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I think that's on the other post. The 'how' was answered on one of the other deleted posts? I would like to hear the details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 18, 2015 Author Share Posted March 18, 2015 its a home made sfd along with ac coils and spacers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 its a home made sfd along with ac coils and spacers Guess I'll be the guy to say it, but a lot of people here are interested to know how you went about accomplishing this, what kind of problems you ran into, materials, etc. The guys here want to dream a little, so do tell more. I take it you did a 6" SFD, 1" spacer, with the ACs. I also imagine your rack and pinion probably needed to be rotated significantly, and probably new/modified lines. Have you re-geared for the 35s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Just curious, why are you guys choosing to use ac springs over the ome springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jyeager Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Right. I'm wondering how/where he got a 6" strut spacer. Did he make it? Is he confident in the strength of a 6" spacer and the bolts used? The steering rack would only need to accommodate 3" of lift because it was dropped 6" with the SFD. Assuming the 1" spacer is inside the top-hat and the AC spring is in there too, that should create gobs of top-out. That's assuming the 1" spacer isn't stacked on top of the 6" strut spacer! Of course, if he made it anyway, he could have made it 7". What was done for the rear lift? Which coils did you adapt? How much of the rear lift was accomplished by spacer? Cool stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Guess I'll be the guy to say it, but a lot of people here are interested to know how you went about accomplishing this, what kind of problems you ran into, materials, etc. The guys here want to dream a little, so do tell more. I take it you did a 6" SFD, 1" spacer, with the ACs. I also imagine your rack and pinion probably needed to be rotated significantly, and probably new/modified lines. Have you re-geared for the 35s? Right. I'm wondering how/where he got a 6" strut spacer. Did he make it? Is he confident in the strength of a 6" spacer and the bolts used? The steering rack would only need to accommodate 3" of lift because it was dropped 6" with the SFD. Assuming the 1" spacer is inside the top-hat and the AC spring is in there too, that should create gobs of top-out. That's assuming the 1" spacer isn't stacked on top of the 6" strut spacer! Of course, if he made it anyway, he could have made it 7". What was done for the rear lift? Which coils did you adapt? How much of the rear lift was accomplished by spacer? Cool stuff. i do appologize for the late response, been busy at work lately and haven't had much time. this was a pretty hard thing to get my path up to 9". i began off with a 1.5" spacer in the front. i soon wanter bigger bc we all know bigger is better! jk so then i went to 3" of spacers. kept on wanting bigger but my support rusty car wasn't holding up at all so i bought another identical pathfinder that was rust free. only problem was the motor had too many miles, clutch was slipping and it was 2x4... so i swapped the motor,tranny,clutch,4x4 transfer case, the front end,suspension and pretty much did a 4x4 swap. so then i was left with an ideal pathfinder with no problems. i then wanted bigger so i bought krfabs kit and realized that i needed longer brakelies, diff breather hose, abs brake sensor line. so i was able to get them all at advanced auto parts for pretty cheap. next i lifted the rear with 4x4parts lift coils. so after this i still wanted bigger. i installed rear spacers and then realized i needed a longer break line, longer diff breather hose and longer shocks. i got the break line extension at advanced auto parts for about 17$ and used old brake hoses i had for the diff breather hose. i went to a junkyard i bought two fox shocks that are about 3' at full extension so those did the job and a little extra. so the rear was at 6" now. then i wanted the front higher.so i got ac coils. then i put extra spacers in also. after doing so the angles of my cv axles were so ridiculous that as soon as they got engaged in 4x4 they binded. the only way to solve was either to have less lift or to drop the subframe down more, so out of steel blocks i hand cut out 2 pieces that were 2x2x3, and 4 that were 2x2x6 i slid those above the krfabs kit to drop the subframe. only to realize that now the steering link was 2" short... so for all you guys that have the krfabs kit, on the steering link you can read that it says "woodwardusa" on it... so they sell the steering link (the on needed for a 6" subframe drop is the 201 spline pattern and has to be 7.75") they're link cast about 16$... so i bought the link and it fit perfectly into place and that was all. it might not all be in order and im sure i forgot something along the way^ but if you guys have any questions ill try my best to answer em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 i used grade 8 bolts for everything... the 12 subframe bolts i used, the 6 strut bolts, i bought 10" bolts and the extra length sticks up into the hood area. the rear was just 3" lift coils and a 4" spacer, over all it gave a little more than 9" of lift. but then i added about 350lbs of sound equipment in the trunk so it droops ALOT more now... to date now i have lift coils and 8.5" of spacers. i made strut tower braces on the top and on the bottom to hold things together better. it sounds unstable but i feel just as safe, and it corners well, handles well, and works just as it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 left is the top side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushnut Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 more pics please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialWarr Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Agreed with bushnut!! More pictures please!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 more pics please! Agreed with bushnut!! More pictures please!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Thanks for the info. So you've basically stacked a 2" SFD with the KrF 4". What's with the 2" tubes, though? Looks like three pieces in there...why not just a .250 wall tube? I would've looked into welding them together, especially with the radius edge on the 4" block. Yep, secret's out...the KrF links are from Woodward. They're the only supplier of the u-joints I could find in our size (diameter x splines). They are beef supreme...and the most expensive part. But if I'm not mistaken, your lower joint looks like it binds. It's definitely made contact before, but it's surely outside the recommended operating range from Woodward. I had to rotate my rack a few degrees for a smaller SFD to get it within range. Anyway, stance looks good. Gears next? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johann_peralta Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Thanks for the info. So you've basically stacked a 2" SFD with the KrF 4". What's with the 2" tubes, though? Looks like three pieces in there...why not just a .250 wall tube? I would've looked into welding them together, especially with the radius edge on the 4" block. Yep, secret's out...the KrF links are from Woodward. They're the only supplier of the u-joints I could find in our size (diameter x splines). They are beef supreme...and the most expensive part. But if I'm not mistaken, your lower joint looks like it binds. It's definitely made contact before, but it's surely outside the recommended operating range from Woodward. I had to rotate my rack a few degrees for a smaller SFD to get it within range. Anyway, stance looks good. Gears next? right, its 3 pieces of steel, im currently looking into just making it one thicker piece. the lower u-joint used to rub the slightest bit, i got a file and filed off just a hair. now it spins freely. good eye man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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