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Lug nut Suggestions


ferrariowner123
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Well, after stripping YET ANOTHER wheel stud today repainting my rear drums, I've decided to tackle this as my next project.

 

I was thinking about getting ARP Chromoly Steel Studs, but they are $37 for set of 5, so $220 for all of my studs, just doesn't sounds reasonable. Plus they are double the length of the standard wheel nut, and yes, they only make one size of 12mm X 1.25mm RH studs.

 

This brings me on to my next question, i want everyone's opinion on what brand of QUALITY Lugs nuts i should use,

 

The whole reason i have to do this is due to learning a valuable lesson in buying eBay crap, and NOT to EVER do that again....

 

I've looked into what my local Costco uses, which is gorilla brand, they seem to be fairly nice, and available in chrome.

 

But what has everyone else had success with?

 

-Kyle

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I have Gorilla locking lug nuts and find them to be of good quality. If their standard lug nuts are made to the same standards, I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Any reason you don't use the stock ones?

 

OK, now I have to ask though, how/why are you stripping wheel studs? Do you use a torque wrench? Are the threads clean and dry? Do you start the lug nuts by hand?

Something isn't right, and I'm just trying to identify it...

 

B

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Wheel Studs - I have only ever used ones from Napa, Cut Rate Auto Parts (yes "CRAP" :lol: ) and Al's Auto Supply>Schucks>O'reilly. Don't know the brand, but it has always been the same. Might still have one. They are decently priced, sold individually and I have never had any problems with them.

 

Lug Nuts - I have bought them from Les Schwab and my current set I got from Infinity(Nissan)

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My hardbody has some crap splined lug nuts on it but they aren't staying. would like to find some stock or aftermarket black ones, chrome may look good inside the black titan wheels too though.

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Studs I get from carquest any time I need them, lugs I have a ton of spare factory chrome acorns laying everywhere (the trick is finding them) for WhiteOwl, the blazer I have a set of "White Knight" brand black dyed lugs that came with a lock for each wheel (I think pep boys) for the summer set and generic chromed for the winter set (image is everything!). I'm adament about my wheel torque and never had an issue

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Of the three pathfinders I've owned, I've never once stripped or otherwise damaged a lugnut, or the stud. No offense at all, but you must be doing something wrong.

 

As for new lugnuts. I replaced 4 on my mothers maxima (they're the same as the pathy) with some cheap ones from Canadian tire after removing the factory wheel locks. I think they were the mcgard brand. They've been on there for a few years now and still look great. I only recently got a torque wrench while doing my transmission swap, and I never really had a problem snugging them down with the factory tire wrench.

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I have Gorilla locking lug nuts and find them to be of good quality. If their standard lug nuts are made to the same standards, I wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Any reason you don't use the stock ones?

 

OK, now I have to ask though, how/why are you stripping wheel studs? Do you use a torque wrench? Are the threads clean and dry? Do you start the lug nuts by hand?

Something isn't right, and I'm just trying to identify it...

 

B

Thanks for the reply.

 

And yes, I've done a number of things wrong, but all part of a learning process. I bought some extremely cut rate, and cheap lug nuts the buggered the threads on several studs and one day discount tire came in and said some were destroyed, I guess there nice impacts just ripped then to shreds. I put the stock ones back on and that ended up working for a little while, but now it's at the point we're safety is a concern, but I'm going to start clean with brand new NISSAN OEM, studs and most likely gorilla tuner style lugs.

 

The change in lugs in the first place was I wanted chrome, just something to contrast the black with my black hubs and compliment the chrome on my warns,

 

So yeah, hard lesson learned.

 

Anyway, my lunch is done, I'll reply when I get home.

 

-Kyle

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I too use the bargain bin at the local big box auto parts store. I think I have three different styles on mine as she sits. :lol:

 

One thing I learned early was to start the threads by hand (around the same time I learned to use a fuel hose to start my spark plugs) and torque them by hand. Never use an pneumatic impact wrench to tighten them!!

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I can't blame an impact wrench for damaging lugs, when I installed tires at the 4x4 shop that is how we always did tires and wheels never had a problem. Of course you can't have the gun set to the highest setting and tighten the crap out of them.

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+several million on not tightening them with a giant rattle gun. My dad and I spent a few hours last night getting one wheel off the Scout because some idiot had run them down tight enough to strip them. They'd turn, sort of, but they wouldn't loosen. We had to drill holes in them and beat them to death with cold chisels and a BFH just to get the wheel off.

 

Never had a problem on the Pathy though, just thread them on by hand and then tighten. I used to just put the lug wrench on, run it down, and jump on it once or twice (I don't weigh much). I checked afterwards with the torque wrench (80 foot pounds IIRC) afterwards and found them slightly loose, so I use the wrench now when possible.

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My torque wrench is set at 105 I believe. It's my general go to for wheel torque. I have a different torque wrench I use that always changes for things with oddly specific torque specs.

Start them by hand, run them up with the gun (not hammer them on), lower so the tire is touching the ground but not complete weight... Just enough to hold the tire safety in place, torque wrench time.

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I too use the bargain bin at the local big box auto parts store. I think I have three different styles on mine as she sits. :lol:

 

One thing I learned early was to start the threads by hand (around the same time I learned to use a fuel hose to start my spark plugs) and torque them by hand. Never use an pneumatic impact wrench to tighten them!!

 

 

I can't blame an impact wrench for damaging lugs, when I installed tires at the 4x4 shop that is how we always did tires and wheels never had a problem. Of course you can't have the gun set to the highest setting and tighten the crap out of them.

 

 

My torque wrench is set at 105 I believe. It's my general go to for wheel torque. I have a different torque wrench I use that always changes for things with oddly specific torque specs.

Start them by hand, run them up with the gun (not hammer them on), lower so the tire is touching the ground but not complete weight... Just enough to hold the tire safety in place, torque wrench time.

 

 

Let me just clear things up...

 

Like i said, i learned a lesson, bought cheapo lugs, ruined my studs and i learned my lesson,

 

I do what all of you say to do, i put the nuts on by hand, hit them with the gun on the medium setting for like a split second, or enough to have them just seated on the wheel, lower the car down, torque them to 105ft-lbs.

 

But i just ordered 24 BRAND NEW OEM studs, replace ALL of them and get a fresh start with the studs, come pay day, its gorilla nuts from summit racing.

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions guys. I appreciate it.

 

-Kyle

 

EDIT: the nuts im liking, let me know your opinions, so far i don't see an issues...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-71127/overview/

 

 

Edited by ferrariowner123
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