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CDN_S4 build thread


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I'm just surprised the flange nut came loose in the first place. The torque on that is relatively high, I believe...I want to say near 50 ft-lbs. But yeah, glad it was at low speed, that could've been really bad. Just imagine: at one point, the truck was fully supported by the ball joint and a twisted spring...and that's about it!

Yeah it would have been, all sitting on the control arm, so the ball joint. I do have my OEM one that is still in really good shape as I had them both replaced not long ago. But I don't see any damage to this one either.

 

 

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Excel G's and GR-2'S are the same if I remember correctly. I would look at getting nylon nuts, heck home depot might have um!

 

And I would try and leave something under the hood for the hear, my whole hood has started to fad, but it's worse in the place where the matting stops so you can see the sticker for the AC info.

 

When I get around to it, I'll be putting dynamat in my update hood to work as a heat reflector or gold. Depending on McClaren F1 I'm feeling when I order it. Lol

 

-Kyle

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I run Gabriel Ultra struts and no issues. Plus Lifetime warranty with then from Autozone. So that happens just walk it in and exchange

However they do ride a lil rougher than KYBs

 

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Really? I've heard KYB'S ride rough! Lol I'll admit the pathy's do not have the smoothest ride, even with my big, soft duratracs the ride is less than comfy, but it's all I've ever really known, beyond what my friends drive, I see it as a blessing, as I will have a fairly low expectation of ride comfort in the future. Lol

 

I wonder who else makes struts for our rigs, because beyond the two listed and stock, i haven't heard of anything else. All I see is KYB'S on yahoo Japan too.

 

-Kyle

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I wonder who else makes struts for our rigs, because beyond the two listed and stock, i haven't heard of anything else. All I see is KYB'S on yahoo Japan too.

 

-Kyle

Kyb, Gabriel, Monroe, Rancho (I'm not sure if they still do but they did), OME, Sensen, and maybe 1 or 2 others I'm not remembering, all make struts for the R50's. I run kyb's in my 01 and Sensen on my 96, Sensen seems to be valve a bit softer, probably similar to the Monroe.
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Kyb, Gabriel, Monroe, Rancho (I'm not sure if they still do but they did), OME, Sensen, and maybe 1 or 2 others I'm not remembering, all make struts for the R50's. I run kyb's in my 01 and Sensen on my 96, Sensen seems to be valve a bit softer, probably similar to the Monroe.

Oh yeah, how could I forget about the OME and Ranchero stuff. Thanks.

 

-Kyle

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Yeah, these ones:

http://hoodlouvers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Large-Natural-Aluminum-Regular-Flow-2.png

 

I think they would look pretty cool and seem to work well too.

Those look like the vents on my Z! Those would look awesome if you installed them right, visually atleast.

 

Make sure they are not a direct vent, like it's literally just a louvered panel, make sure it has some sort of piece that will aid with keeping water and crap out of there. My Z has the vents be used real early Z's had cooling and engine bay Temps (from what I'm told) and they put these vents in to help with that. The one above the brake booster is my Z has some protection from the elements, a small piece of steel that lines the bottom of it, whole the other side is just a vent, real dumb idea be user nissan stuck the fusible links right under the open vent, allowing all kinds of havoc to be had with the stock wiring! Lol I can take pics to show you what I mean.

 

-Kyle

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Yeah placement is key. Definitely will have to be over hot components and not over electrical stuff. Even though the engine bay can be fully hosed down and they get wet in the rain and on the trails so it's not like a drop of water is going to kill it.

 

 

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Yeah placement is key. Definitely will have to be over hot components and not over electrical stuff. Even though the engine bay can be fully hosed down and they get wet in the rain and on the trails so it's not like a drop of water is going to kill it.

 

 

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Well, just be careful what hot parts you put them over. I know you're a smart guy i just don't want to see you stuck on a trail with a huge electrical short or something. took some Pics of my Z's to better illustrate what i was talking about.

 

The key with something like this is airflow, you either want the hotter air to flow out, or the cooler air to flow in, (high pressure to low changes, so the latter is most likely what will happen).

 

20663405443_cf3041e4b0_c.jpg

 

Notice how the right side is open, and the left side is protected. There is a good reason for this...

 

20661826724_ab665b2eba_c.jpg

 

See where the vent sits over in the engine bay, you have got the hottest part of the engine, the exhaust. Due to an unfortunate aerodynamic design, (from what i recall) the early Z's had some cooling issues, due too high engine bay temps (as previously explained). This was made standard from the factory on all 280Z's (maybe some 260's), to help get that hot air out of the bay. This will be the goal here for you, i think putting the vents over an air space will be of most benefit, allowing more airflow.

 

21273941112_35405ddc04_c.jpg

 

I took this one to more show off how stupid Nissan was for making this open vent right over the main power fuses for the car. On the end of the that box that behind the shock tower sat two little cups that held the main these links. They were covered, but after 30-40 years that plastic got old, brittle and eventually broke, allowing water to pour in, sit, and cause sorting. So yeah, just be smarter than this, lol

 

I know this was not entirely necessary. i'm just trying to inspire i guess, give you an idea of how the manufactures solve this issue, (keeping it mind it was 40 years ago).

 

-Kyle

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Good stuff, Kyle. In fact, that's kind of why I was asking...I had been looking at some OE Mustang, Grand Prix, or GTO hood vents that have drip trays. But they also looked to be rather restrictive. Of course, every bit helps, and what hot air isn't blown under the truck while driving will surely escape where it can. Even at slow speeds, hot air rising of course.

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Good stuff, Kyle. In fact, that's kind of why I was asking...I had been looking at some OE Mustang, Grand Prix, or GTO hood vents that have drip trays. But they also looked to be rather restrictive. Of course, every bit helps, and what hot air isn't blown under the truck while driving will surely escape where it can. Even at slow speeds, hot air rising of course.

 

Good point, i missed that, I've been reading up on brake cooling ducts, and i guess that's where my head is at, thinking of a car only at speed... My bad. But there is a definite air flow in our rigs,even when sitting. When these vents will be most effective is when our fans (Either aftermarket or stock) will be running at full blast. I have a junkyard Taurus two speed fan just sitting around for whatever car i decided to put it in, because they are so effective, so readily available, and CHEAP. Sure they draw ALOT of power, but its so worth the additional upgrade of an alternator.

 

I also forgot to mention that I've seen Z owners drill holes in the inner fender area (sort tucked up and away, under the fenders) that allow stuck air to move, something else to consider...

 

Either way, cant wait to see what you guys come up with, our rigs have always needed some sort of extreme cooling option, hopefully we can find something.

 

Have either of you two seen Andy' (theexbrit's) rig? Hes got some vents on his car, and he says they did wonders for his desert expeditions.

 

-Kyle

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Yeah I've seen his louvers. By the looks of it, he has similar ones as the ones I linked. I read up on his and followed the link to the ones be bought, basically the same. He put his quite cantered on the hood, which is where I was thinking about putting them too, mostly engine block there. Maybe I'll fabricate a half tray just to keep the water off of the spark plugs wires.

Maybe a third louver that runs parallel along the windshield would be a good idea too as that's where most of the hot air would get pushed to at any speed. So now that I'm thinking a bit more about this, maybe ideal would be to find some that point forward and pull air in, put those further forward and place a larger one at the back that lets hot air out.

 

 

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Some good info here. Yeah I've seen andy's, and that's what gave me the idea. His louvers look exactly like the ones I've linked.

While letting hot air out is great, maybe better would be to draw more cold air in AND let hot air out. So maybe having 2 louvers, or 1 further forward that face forward and push air into the bay and having 1 or 2 louvers higher up closer towards or parallel to the windshield where all the hot air would pool, would be ideal.

Also some half trays could be fabbed to keep rain and snow off some of the more sensitive areas.

 

 

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Some good info here. Yeah I've seen andy's, and that's what gave me the idea. His louvers look exactly like the ones I've linked.

While letting hot air out is great, maybe better would be to draw more cold air in AND let hot air out. So maybe having 2 louvers, or 1 further forward that face forward and push air into the bay and having 1 or 2 louvers higher up closer towards or parallel to the windshield where all the hot air would pool, would be ideal.

Also some half trays could be fabbed to keep rain and snow off some of the more sensitive areas.

 

 

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So, you've not seen Andy's setup yet?? Just kidding...

 

This guy (Silverhorn) over at NICO has a cool setup:

 

Camera%20Roll_8EEF7D32-084D-4906-997B-46

 

Though judging by some engine pics, there's really no good placement if dripping water is a concern. However, I'd think it only be a decent concerned while parked, no?

 

I know I've seen hoods propped up a little at the hinges for venting. It'd probably look awkward at the fender lines, but I'd think lifting it off the rear weatherstrip a little would help. Or maybe even removing the weatherstrip altogether? I think the cowl is already shaped to drain water to the sides below where the weatherstrip is installed (too lazy to go outside to check).

 

 

 

 

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I honestly don't think rain it as much of a concern as it's being made out to be. I mean everything inside the bay CAN get wet. I wash my engine bays out with soap and water and never had any issues. But if absolutely necessary, one could fabricate a second layer really close to the top layer of the hood that collects water and delivers it to the sides. Looks like Silverhorn has the same louvers, but not the XL size, which is what I would get.

The weatherstrip could be interesting to look at. Or creating a better flow towards the rear by either trimming the firewall down just a tad in some spots, not sure if possible at all, just throwing ideas around. Just thinking of ways to let the air out better. I'll have to take a closer look... I'm sure something will pop into my head if I stare long enough lol.

 

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Just do like Stoic does for runs. Puts some thick washers between the hood hinge bar and the hood. He raises his like 1/2" and it makes something like a 20* difference in the western heat.

 

 

THIS is a great idea!!! I will do just that. But I will probably still get louvers because they look badass!! LOL

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I know I've seen hoods propped up a little at the hinges for venting.

 

Just do like Stoic does for runs. Puts some thick washers between the hood hinge bar and the hood. He raises his like 1/2" and it makes something like a 20* difference in the western heat.

 

 

Guess I could've explained the magic, but there it is.

 

Yeah, I've got no major concerns about water on the engine either...for short periods of time. I wash my engines down at the spray-n-wash all the time. Rain's not an issue where I live for the most part (but when it does rain, it pours here...monsoons + El Nino). But I'm talking about driving vs. parking. If I'm driving, no worries: it'll steam or drip off from motion. I wouldn't want for it to be parked with water dripping into the engine bay for prolonged periods of time, especially atop the engine where water can pool in some places.

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I know I've seen hoods propped up a little at the hinges for venting. It'd probably look awkward at the fender lines, but I'd think lifting it off the rear weatherstrip a little would help. Or maybe even removing the weatherstrip altogether? I think the cowl is already shaped to drain water to the sides below where the weatherstrip is installed (too lazy to go outside to check).

 

 

 

 

 

That hood prop this is what the boy racers do when their HUGE V8 wont fit under the hood of where there use to be a tiny 4 banger. If it has any cooling benefits is anyone's guess.

 

-Kyle

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Well, I've seen it for a few reasons, bigger engines being one of them. But yes, it would have to have some cooling benefits of it lifts the rear of the hood off the weatherstripping underneath it. It's just another way for air to escape the engine bay.

 

My only real caution is that the hood and hinges are designed to 'catch' the firewall during a frontal collision to avoid entering the cabin as a giant blade. Probably not wise to defeat that function.

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