PitBullGirl23 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 So I just replaced the coolant sensor in my 1995 SE-V6 Pathfinder in hopes it would fix my temp gauge. My RPM gauge also sticks at around 3000 as soon as the vehicle is on. The new sensor is in, and it seems like it registers it being as when I disconnect it it says check engine. I am not sure if I have to clear codes or disconnect the battery before I install it, but any ideas would be helpful. I'm also replacing the thermostat. Could it be I need a new cluster? All my little fuses are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj503 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 There is a temp sensor and a temp sensor. The sensor will not affect the guage if I recall correctly. Where was the one you replaced? Front of the block on the driver side behind the timing cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 On the 95 there are two sensors in the upper coolant hose neck of the intake manifold, one is for the ECU it has a yellow connector and there is the one for the gauge which has a 1 pin spade style connector. Your temp gauge only going up 1/8 of the way is more likely a thermostat issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 It was the one in the front, right on top. Had a yellow connector. I'm going to try to replace the therm tomorrow. How hard can it be? O.o This is what the coolant sensor looked like that I replaced, but it's grey. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPI0/29305/01392.oap?year=1995&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1212006&ck=Search_coolant+temperature+sensor%21s%21sender_1212006_-1&keyword=coolant+temperature+sensor%21s%21sender Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 That sensor is for the ECU, won't affect the gauge at all. Are you sure there is even anything wrong, does it put out good heat? If it does I wouldn't worry about it. The gauge sensors almost never fail, at least I've never seen a report on here of one breaking. These gauges do tend to read low anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 It's like barely above the line though. It's way low. It does put out good heat, but the idle sounds high, and it never sounds like it's warmed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orca4wd Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 It's like barely above the line though. It's way low. It does put out good heat, but the idle sounds high, and it never sounds like it's warmed up. I had the exact problem, where the temp gauge reads low and higher than norm idle when cold. At first, replaced the temp sensor with no success. Replaced the thermostat seem to resolved the problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Replace the factory 170 degree (way too cold) thermostat with a 180 degree. I had the same problem, gunked up 170 was staying open just a crack with grit. Flushed the system and put in a 180 and haven't had a problem since and now my gauge reads 1/3 or just a little over. Much better heat and the truck idles nice and low. I think I got a slight mpg increase as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 I have the 170 thermostat in my 94 and the temp gauge sits between the "C" and the half mark all the time. You need to replace the other sender, as Adam said it's this one: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4588866&cc=1211993 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 As others have said already, sounds like a thermostat stuck open, thus no heat and a low temp reading on the guage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 she did say it has good heat though 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 I also had low reading on my temp guage. Tried to change the thermostate. Then i discovered that the mechanical cooling fan thermo clutch was not working properly. Since a new one cost a fortune over here, i converted to an electric fan. Now the temp gets to normal when driving slow or idling. But in winter and when in highway speed it still does not reach normal working temp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Ok getting ready to change the therm now, we will see if that works. Have to wait 24 hours for the RTV to set before I can fire it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 it's not that bad to do as long as you pull the fan/fan clutch, shroud and the AC idler pulley bracket, I just did mine in my 94. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ef9 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 The '94 and up gauge clusters suck. I remember back on the AC forum that others had problems with the speedo and tach. My tach (I have a '95 Hardbody) went out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj503 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 End up resolving the issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) So all of a sudden my RPMs work again, so new cluster it is. Now I just have a problem with the idle running rough in Park. Well, and it hogging gas more than normal. Any recommended cluster I should get? Maybe an older model Pathy? Like a 91 or so? Edited March 22, 2014 by PitBullGirl23 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) Nope, you have to get one from a 94-95 with a rounded dash. You can always search for a speedo repair shop in your area. Though, they are a few and far between. Sounds like you may have a air low meter acting up. There is a how to in the garage section on how to clean it. It's helped many members. Edited March 22, 2014 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PitBullGirl23 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Nope, you have to get one from a 94-95 with a rounded dash. You can always search for a speedo repair shop in your area. Though, they are a few and far between. Sounds like you may have a air low meter acting up. There is a how to in the garage section on how to clean it. It's helped many members. Air low meter? What is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 1, 2014 Share Posted April 1, 2014 Air Flow meter, also known as the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). It is the aluminum gizmo mounted on the output side of the air box with the flex hose that goes to the engine. Sometimes the wiring connector.wires get funky, some times it needs a ground spliced in. Try just wiggling the connector when it is idling rough. If it clears up or changes, you know that is the culprit. You can also check the ECU (engine control unit or Brain) for stored fault codes, sometimes it will tell you what is malfuctioning. There are proceedures for all of this in the Garage/How To section. B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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