Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 95 pathy manual. Hi all, was wondering if someone can shed some light. After mynlocal shop "repaired" my water pump, I tought I was good to go,,later after seeing and gearing water steaming, i realized that the sensor was disconected and my local mechanic didnt do angood job fixingnor replacing the waternpump, so the engine overheated a couple of times, I never allowed get past 75% but, atbone instance I let the clutchnho too mucc ad I was pulling into my job's parking lot ramp. And the engine stopped. When I attempted to startbit back on. It didnt. U guys think I might blown the head gaskets or perhaps the timing belt jumped? I dont see water in oil or vise versa. Any Ideas or recomendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackStraw1 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Are you sure that the water pump is bad and that you don't perhaps have a shot radiator as well ? Is the engine cranking and won't start ? or not cranking at all ? Check oil for antifreeze. That is often the case if head gasket is blown. Timing belt "jump" is kinda unusual. BTW, your post would be a lot easier to read if you could proof-read it first and correct typos where words run together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Sorry bout mispells, Im typing from a smartphone. The engine cranks sometimes for a second it sounds like it wants to start. I saw the water leaking from the water pump area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bakon Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Sometimes the headgasket can actually be broken, where the coolant will get into the cylinders and not the oil. Usually when that happens you usually hydro lock the motor since water can't really be compressed or combusted hehe which is what it sounds like it in your case. Same thing happened to me in my '86 200sx. The dude I bought it from said he changed the water pump, never hooked up the temp gauge, and since it was a electronic dashboard, I didn't even notice the car not getting signal from the temp gauge. All I had to do was just pop the heads get them machined, changed the hg, and cleaned out coolant from anywhere it wasn't suppose to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 I went back to the basics and discovered no spark. But, can overheating an engine damage the current flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 If you don't have any spark, it sounds to me like your ECU fuse got blown during all the drama, or it's a safety cut off and now the computer won't let the engine start until you get it fixed...or you've a blown head gasket and no compression, and that's why it won't start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) I don't know of any safety cutoffs on the WD, or any way it would know that the gasket was blown. Is the CEL on? Codes? If the headgasket had blown, and the engine was hydrolocked, it wouldn't crank. Since yours cranks, I'm inclined to say it's not the gasket. I've heard that coolant is bad for timing belts, but I assume that's over time, not all at once. You can take the distributor cap off and hit the starter to make sure the belt's working (the rotor should spin with the motor). If the belt is knackered, it won't spin, you'll have no spark, and it won't have any compression. You said it sounded like it wanted to start, which makes me suspect that the belt isn't the problem. I'd check the connections on the coil and distributor, including the camshaft position sensor. I don't know if an overheat would knacker any of these, but if your mechanic forgot to plug the temp sender back in, maybe he left one of them loose as well. Speaking of the mechanic, you might call him up and tell him the pump failed, and see if he'll stand behind his work. Edited February 3, 2014 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 is the cel on? Codes? Sorry I dont know much anout that, but if someone can shed some light, I can always learn and look into it. Im almost sure and hope its not the head gaskets, when the engine cranks, I can almost hear it wants to start, it will crank fast-slowe-slower-fast -slower. I've had headgaskets blown on another vehicle before and (correct me if im wrong) the cranking sounds pretty flat. So I guess my next step will be to check the distributor/coil/and rotor for now. But any additional pointers would be highly helpfull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted February 3, 2014 Share Posted February 3, 2014 Here's a walkthrough on checking for codes: The computer doesn't always know what's up, but if you can get a code from it, it can give you a good idea of where to start. I've never gotten anything useful from mine. Good luck with the ignition components, hopefully it's something simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks all for your help. So I went back to check on the rotor. And found that it does not turn. Do you guys think its something wrong with the distributor, the.rotor itself or the timing belt? Do these models have a timing belt, or is it a chain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 If the rotor does not turn the timing belt is most likely broken... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 yep, what he said. The 95's have a belt and, if I recall correctly, the one with the rounded teeth. Pull your top cover and see. It's a little work but it will give you your answer. Don't just throw a belt on either. Make sure everything moves freely like it should and look for any cause of the belt breaking (other than just age). example could be siezing a cam which snaps the belt. Anyway, good luck. It's not a HUGE job to replace the timing belt and there are some things you should probably do while you have the front end apart. Also, dig through the foruma (search) and there are most likely suggestions, tips, tricks, etc like how to use a breaker bar with a pipe on it and hit the starter briefly to looses the bolt on the crankshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 The belt was torn. Niw um trying to see where water was coming out. Water pumb looks clean the intake has all the corrosion. But looks in good shape. Im changing the intake to make sure.Its kind of rusted anyways. Im also replacing the thermostat. So now I think the reason it overheated in the first place was due to a bad thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Mechanic changed belt, put the pieces back together. He said the timing didnt have to be set because its already set. And when changjng the belt its not needed to time the belt. Once the truck was started it did with some difficulty but it startes making a knocking noice from a valve that goes from the spark plug#5. He says its the valve. I WISH it was not since he says that in order to change the valve .the head have t be removed. What you guys think. Is it the valve? Or could there be timing issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 If the belt broke you would have to be the luckiest guy in the known universe to have not bent a valve or three. And judging on your experience with this shop so far, find a different one. Broken belt = bent valves, guaranteed. Especially if you kept trying to start it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 So, just so I get a good idea of the damage. In summary what am I looking at when having to fix this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 compression test each cylinder and find if one is bad (ie broken or bent valve). As for the mechanic saying it doesn't need timed, he's full of sh!t. From a distributer perspective, ok, but you can't just shove a belt on and assume everything is aligned the way it should be. Even with a lost cylinder, these engine run fairly well so I'm thinking that you might have a cam that's off a tooth(or more) and that's why it's running rough and making noise. IF it's a valve, you're pulling the head(s) which you have to take the timing belt back off anyway. I would double check all the alignments as you are disassembling and, if you find something out of whack, fix and put back together. You might get lucky. If not and you tear apart again, you have that much more experience doing so. Keep us posted as to what your plans are and we'll help as we can. I've had mine torn down to the block a few times for various reasons and am usually on the forums once a day or so. I'd be glad to help with any info I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 and I've lost 2 timing belts, once when the bolt holding the idler sheared off and have never bent a valve. Lucky I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Where in TX are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafaguerra2000 Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Thanks K9sar ans everyone else here, one thing I did notice is that by moving the distributor around the noise fades away, but not completely, in reality havent been able to meve the distributor freely because its too tight too hard to rotate just a but, and yes the bolt is loosen. I dont have the equipment to do the compression test but I will find someone to help me with that. What Im trying to avoid is to have to open the engine for a bent valve, so I want to make sure before I do so. I might have to buy the timing gun. And check timing first, and take it from there. Is that a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 I forget which head #5 is on but if it on the drivers (distributer) side, checking the timing should tell you of the crankshaft and the DS cam are out of sync. Compression test will definately reveal a bent valve but in lieu of that, do the timing check. If it is good and #5 is on the disty side, there is an issue. IF it's bad, your cam may be off a notch. You might be able to 'rent' a timing gun from a parts store liek they do tools.... buy it, use it, return it. I know Advance Auto has a program specifically to do that. Alternatively, perhaps the 'ol Walmart 30-day rental/return policy might be an option (lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 5 is the furthest back on the right hand side. 5 6 3 4 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 5 is on the passenger side. If the noise lessens as you turn the distributor I wonder if you're hearing a knock from it being WAY out of time. Make sure the mechanical timing is set perfect before checking compression or else you'll be wasting your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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