DantheMayun Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Hey guys. Quick question. I recently broke a compression rod * for whatever reason I dont know*. Well i'm not sure what to do with the peice on the frame that the compression rod attatches to. It seems i ok condition. A little worn out obviously. Should I try to replace that on the frame? How do I go about doing this? I'm not sure how you would cut it out and replace a new one. Maybe the bushings on the rod will just hold it in there? I can show you guys some pics or video tommorow if your intersted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) Most people weld in new metal to make the hole round again. But pics would be helpful. Edited November 19, 2013 by Kyle94 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 I know that ahardbody on here just had a hole punched in a 3/8 steel plate if I remember correctly and just welded it over top replacing isn't nessecary. Had the same issue if you can see my hole is starting to look like an egg I just grinded it flat since sas is happening in the spring. And honestly in hard wheeling I can still here it hit so I remcommend fixing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 If its that bad, definitely fix it. If its just slightly worn, then its not a big deal. Would need pictures though. Most important part is the bushing cup. It's what holds the bushing centered anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 Most important part is the bushing cup. It's what holds the bushing centered anyways. This, and the bushings are what (should hold) holds the rod in place. We have the information in a thread here on specifically what size/part number bearing race people have used but I don't recall from memory. If you can't find it via search, let me know, and I will. Holy Crap cvdloc! You didn't notice there might be something wrong before that point? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 The bearing race I used was LM67010 which is a Timken part #. To repair the hole I used a thin shim from Ace Hardware and welded that to the back of the bearing race. I'm not sure of the exact details on that though. Just make sure that it's thin or it will throw off your caster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Nissan does provide new ones with the mounting bracket that is welded to the frame, but you will have to do some cutting and welding. PART NUMBER: 50260-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, RH PART NUMBER: 50261-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, LH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Hey Alkorahil, how much is the cost on those parts? Just curious.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Hey Alkorahil, how much is the cost on those parts? Just curious.. Sorry, should have said that.... PART NUMBER: 50260-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, RH PART NUMBER: 50261-31G01 BRACKET-TORSION, LH $57.68 each (list: $76.90) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 Thank you! Seems like punching a hole in some 1/4 - 3/8 steel is the cheapest route but isn't terrible for a proper fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 (edited) never had a problem the way I had mine repaired on my old hardbody and I didn't have the bushing cups either, It may not have been the right way but it was safe and drove fine. The steel I used I believe was 1/4" thick Edited November 23, 2013 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFEppN1yFGU&feature=youtu.be Alrighty, finally got some time to upload it today. Happy Turkey Day guys! Gobble Gobble lets drink Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 Wow cvdloc makes mine look brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 That looks ok to me, I'd just throw the new parts on and call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Is there a bushing cup on the side not shown, and does the bushing fit snugly in the side that is shown? It is the bushings that holds everything in position, so as long as they are secure... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Yea and they seem to set in nice. I got the whole assembley new should be alright I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 I want to install new rancho shocks and crank my t bars.. i'm worried cranking them might give me alignment issues. Where they're sitting now the guys at Firestone were unable to properly align my pathy. I have no idea what goes into alignment and I know unless you get it done at nissan everybody has a hard time. Hmm I wounder if I get new shocks in the front if I need to get new shocks for the back... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Do you have factory upper control arms and how high is it cranked right now? Shocks shouldn't effect ride height, even if they are gas charged. You can change the front and rear independently and the only difference is that one end might be softer/firmer than the other... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted November 30, 2013 Author Share Posted November 30, 2013 Ive never cranked them and I really doubt the p/o did. Front end has always been a little low. To be honest though idk how to really tell if they have already been cranked Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Take a look at the bump stops, a general rule of thumb is that you have 1/2" clearance for the lowers. You can measure to the body crease and compare with other people, and you can set the front end to be .5-1.0" lower than the rear (assuming the rear hasn't sagged) as they are supposed to have a little rake to them. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 If you also look at the bolts that are used to torque your t bars, see how high up they are, some people have as much as 3" of exposed thread at the top (wouldn't recommend going any higher) if they are up that high and still has a sag to the front, I'd look into new t bars or replacements but that's an uncommon issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 ^ I re-indexed, to solve that problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvdloc Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 ^ I re-indexed, to solve that problem. Do'h lol well that's cheaper should have thought of that before thanks for pointing it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 well got around to doing it today.. Looks like my left t bar is broken. And theyre pretty much maxed out anyways. the bolt that you adjust is just dangling loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DantheMayun Posted December 2, 2013 Author Share Posted December 2, 2013 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VXb6sY2SGY#t=34 It doenst make sense to me this is a previos video at 30 sec you can see when i jiggle it the little mount that goes with it moves as well. Is that mount broken off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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